I have searched and read a lot of post and I'm just more confused now than before.. I need to know if the muncie that came with my car, in boxes not installed, will fit and work in my car. I have a 71 454 auto coupe.. the trans case is 3885010. the bellhousing is 3840383. the tail is 3857584.. My auto frame has been changed out to a 4-speed frame. Also came with the pedals, Z-bar, ect. Thanks

 

They will all bolt in just fine. There are 3 things to check to make sure you have the right parts.

1) Input shaft splines- either 10 or 26. Both will work..just have to get the correct clutch disc.

2) Shifter arm attachment- older ones used a stud and nut...later ones used a bolt. Both will work...just need to make sure the shifter rods have the correct arm on them.

3) Output shaft splines- most are small diameter like a PG or a T-350. Later ones used a T-400 large style yoke. Just make sure you have the right yoke and you're fine. You'll need a 4 speed driveshaft if the T-400 is in there already..but that's no biggee.

Get a bellhousing or scattershield to fit over an 11" clutch assy.


This will get you pretty close on main points.

JIM

 

One addition to Jim's good tips, do make sure you have a Corvette specific fork arm.

 

A 010 is 68,and earlier,so you will need the earlier style shifter rods,and all Turbo 350(small yoke) will work.How many grooves are on the front input,or is there any?2 grooves is a M20,1 groove is M21,and no grooves is a M22.The M20 is wide ration w/the 7/8ths shaft,and the 21/22 are close ratio w/the 1" shaft.Naturally the 1" shafts are stronger,and more desired,but plenty of BB GM cars came w/the M20,and did fine.
The M20 has a steeper first gear,and you are shifting the 21/22 more.This is a 10 spline input,and came factory w/the 10.4" clutch,which doesn't matter if you have a later #621 bellhousing,or equal.

 

the front shaft is 10 spline, 2 rings. the hurst shifter has bolts going into trans attaching the levers/arms. the rear yolk is too small, the t-400 auto drive haft is wider cup to cup. change the yolk? what kind? will the auto drive shaft work then? the clutch fork has no numbers on it at all, how do I tell if its for a vette? order a clutch kit and fly-wheel for what kind of car/application?

 

You can change the yoke or get a conversion u-joint. Spicer has a 1310 to 1330 conversion u-joint. Should be cheaper than a new yoke and I can't imagine any weaker. 1310 and 1330 have same cup diameter (same cups) just the 1330 is wider from end to end.

 

so 1330 is what I have and I need 1310? when I put the old drive shaft up to the 4-speed, the u-joint that is in the shaft is too wide to fit the yolk. if so, are there two different cup widths on one joint? wide for the shaft and smaller for the yolk?

also my pop up blocker killed a message from somebody? sorry about that

 

Yes, sounds like you have 1330 and you need 1310. The conversion u-joint handles that problem instead of changing to a 1330 yoke to match your current drive-shaft u-joint.

 

ok great maybe this will work now, thanks for all the help. anybody know how to tell if my clutch fork is a corvette type? and what kind of car I should order a flyheel and clutch kit for?

 

You first need the yoke that fits the trans. Does the T-400 one slip on there or do you need a smaller yoke? Likely need smaller one. Then it's possible U-joints will work fine with the adapter joints or maybe even without. Your driveshaft will likely be too short.

Corvette clutch arms typically have the little vertical cleavis pin that attaches linkage to it vs Camaros and stuff that just had a little indention for pushrod to sit in.

JIM

 

If you need the yoke...pm me...I have a bunch of that stuff.You will need the smaller one w/the 010 trans,and the 1330 to 1310 like what was mentioned.
The next question is....what is your bellhousing number,and what flywheel do you have?454s have their own flywheel,and are 11" usually,unless you get/got a aftermarket one.What I am getting at here is if you have a original 454 11" flywheel,and the bellhousing on the 010 trans is original,and it is for the 10.4" clutch,then no dice.You will have to go one way,or the other.This isn't sales pitches here,but I also,carry the repop #621s for the 11" setup.Do your homework,and see which is the cheapest route to go.11" setups have more biting surface,but the fastest C3s all had the 10.4s from the factory.So wither is fine.Just figure out the cheapest route,and pursue that direction.
I sale 5/6 speed conversions,and alot of 4-speed stuff,so I have all the parts,or carry them.

 

You have a mutt assembly. It CAN fit BUT you will have issues. You will need to know what to order at the parts store if you choose to build this mutt. The parts you buy in the future are going to be "wrong" for your original application so keep that in mind as you make decisions today. You may be better off selling all this odd year stuff and picking up pieces that match your original application. Much less confusion later.

That said, here you go!

Based on the casting numbers you provided, the shifter shafts on the tranny should have studs sticking out with nuts to attach the (3) shift levers. (1-2, 3-4, and reverse) . This is the early design used in '68 and older trannys. (If it uses bolts to attach these 3 levers, the tranny itself is a mutt.)

The tranny tailshaft is the smaller one used up through '69 so you need a different driveshaft yoke. The one you have in the car now is probably too large. Go to the driveshaft shop and they can fix you up.

The bellhousing you have is for a small 10.5" clutch. Your car would originaly have come with the larger 11" clutch. Bottom line - Get the right "621" bellhousing, an 11" clutch, and a 14" 168 tooth flywheel and run the catalog Vette starter OR use the mutt "383" bellhousing you have now and buy a starter and a 153 tooth 12-3/4" flywheel and 10.5" clutch assy for a '68 327 Vette.

The Hurst Competition Plus shifter you need is composed of 2 kits - you will need a shifter and the installation kit for a '68 Corvette to make this tranny work in your car. These are the only kits that have the right combination of parts you need to make an old style muncie tranny fit into a newer C3.

Feel free to ask if you need more detail.

Hope this helps,

-Mark.

 

Here's a Corvette fork...

 

ok my clutch arm is wrong, whats different on a vette cross bar/ Z-bar? also my drive shaft is 29 1/2" cup to cup. will that work on a 4-speed? the way I read this ebay ad, it works on both manual and auto..
"68-79 Corvette Drive Shaft. Fits: 71-79 4speed 68-79 Automatic. Measurements are 29 1/2 center to center on u-joint holes."

 

I dont have a flywheel yet, I looked a flywheel up on corvette america or zip and I thought it said 71,454, 10.4 clutch. The bellhousing on the trans is a 3840383

 

A "mutt" huh? I call it a Frankinstien! a big mess either way. For a minute there I thought I was down to a special u-joint. This car sure aint like no other Chevy I ever had..lol

 

more info.. there is a hurst shifter <#3915401 > installed on the trans now and also came with whats supposed to be some kind of corvette shifter, in the pic the loose vette shifter is laying on trans next to the installed hurts shifter.

 

The shifter is fine,and more precise than the factory shifter.
Give me a call...217.330.7425
here's the approach that I would take w/this...I would get a different bellhousing,then get the clutch assembly,and flywheel for a 454.You will also need the smaller yoke,the Spicer 1330/1310 u-joint,and the Corvette fork.
Sale the bellhousing that you have,the shifter,and the yoke.If the auto in the car is original,and you have a numbers car,then you may want to keep the yoke to change back some day.Being fair on prices....those 3 items are a couple hundred bucks,alittle more,so that will recoop some of the money it is going to take to get this thing together.
It might be a "mutt",but it's all pretty straight forward once you know what you have,and need.The parts arn't that expensive,and easily available.
Some things to also,add to your wish list that you are going to need...
1.top rod that goes from pedal to top of the Z
2.mounting pivot on top rod to Z,and the 2 jam nuts
3.top z return spring
4.Z-bar ballstud kit
5.lower Z rod
6.lower rod anti-rattle springs(2)
7.621 bellhousing 11",or equal
8.bellhousing clutch fork stud
9.Corvette clutch fork
10.clutch fork boot
11.clutch fork pin
12.4 pack of "G clips"
13.pressure plate bolts(6)
14.lower shift boot
15.upper shift boot
16.11" flywheel
17.new flywheel bolts(6)
18.new clutch/pressure plate/throw out kit,and it comes w/alignment tool,and new pilot bushing.DON'T FORGET TO INSTALL PILOT!!!!!!
19.Small Turbo 350 style yoke
20.Spicer 1330/1310 U-joint
21.New trans mount

Sounds like alot,but most the stuff is small,and only a couple bucks.
It will change your car up completely,and once it is all done.....you will LOVE it!

 

hey thanks for the list, I ran across most those little pieces looking for a picture of a clutch fork. Do you sell all that stuff? whats the need for a different bellhousing? a 10.4 clutch would be fine for me as far as performance, my burn out and racing days are over. all I will need is a chirp between 1st & 2nd when I leave the cruise-in. somebody mentioned starter problems? the engine is #s matching but the auto trans is gone and the previous owner changed the frame to a 4-speed car frame. I think I have the smaller yolk on the trans already, the u-joints in the shaft are too wide. also the shaft is 29.5" cup to cup, willl that work with the 1310 joint?

 

Based on your pictures - You have two later design ('69 and newer) shift shafts on the 1-2 and 3-4 levers and one early design ('68 and older) shifter shaft on the reverse lever. Just a heads up on this. It may cause you some pain. This is probably because Bubba could easily swap those two later design levers into this early design tranny by pulling the side cover off but the reverse lever required a dissasembly of the tranny to do the swap and he don't know nuttin about putting it back together so he left that one in there.

Which ever bellhousing you decide to run (either large or small), ALL the rest of the parts will have to match up. You can not mix and match the starter nose cone, clutch assy, flywheel, or even the starter brace. You have to go all "larger" setup or all "smaller" setup.

After personaly going down this road a time or two, I went back to all correct year matching stuff and it was well worth the learning experience to try it both ways. I am glad someone else is going through it this time so I can just be a spectator.

-Mark.