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I have been looking for a crate motor for my 79. The engine builder is CNC Motorsports and he was selling a 383 425hp 470tg 2 bolt main engine. My engine is a 2 bolt, can I just use my 350 2 bolt and stroke it?
I agree that there is nothing wrong with stroking your current engine, but for all the time and effort shopping for, and having a rotating assembly installed, into your current block (and clearancing it), I find CNC's prices well worth not having to go thru the effort. You are going to be buying the rotating assembly, cam, bearings, gaskets, machine shop work etc, anyway- how much would you really save?
Especially with the fact that now that I think about it, your current heads are probably not going to be able to produce those kind of HP/TQ numbers, your going to be buying pretty much everything anyway. Take new cam, heads, rotating assembly, etc, throw in the cost of decking, bore aligning, shot peening, mangafluxing and clearanceing your current block and you save $???
yeah you can rebuild your 2bolt into a 383....i did mine 2 years ago with no problems yet....built it to rev to 6500. I just used bolts for the mains, i bought the arp studs but had trouble getting the maincaps on over them.
definitley go with some compression and aluminum heads and you'll be very happy.
it's up to you about building it yourself or buying it....i personally like the fact that I can say, yeah I built that. and i like "shopping" for the stuff too.
If your engine is still in the car, pick up a good 4-bolt block and build it into a 383 before you pull yours out so you don't spend weeks or months without your ride, plus you'll get to keep your engine if it's original. 2-bolt smallblocks are fine to a point, but there's so little area where the cap contacts the block registers that they're subject to cap walk. This isn't the case with 400's and big blocks because the caps have the same contact area on 2 and 4 bolt blocks. If yours is just going to be a cruiser, you might be fine, but routine beating on it will take a toll. Read thru this thread on Team Chevelle before you decide: http://www.chevelles.com/forums/show...ht=2-bolt+caps
You'll really do better with good heads, a budget stroker with Vortec heads will make plenty of power without breaking the bank. You can pick up a Scat or Eagle cast stroker crank for around $200, they'll handle 500hp with no trouble.
Why build an engine that makes you cringe when the tach approaches 6,000 - build one you can drive like you stole it and have the confidence that it's built to take the abuse time and time again.
2-bolt smallblocks are fine to a point, but there's so little area where the cap contacts the block registers that they're subject to cap walk. This isn't the case with 400's and big blocks because the caps have the same contact area on 2 and 4 bolt blocks.
"Cap walk" happens when the bolts stretch from sustained high rpm operation. The contact area has nothing to do with it. Using good studs prevents this from happening.
Check out the thread - that was a studded block. Those are very experienced engine builders and racers. Register size has a lot to do with it - that's why 400's don't have the same problem, they use exactly the same bolts or studs. Same with big blocks, huge registers even on 2-bolt blocks.
For what it's worth I've built several 383's over the past years. Some, two bolt mains others were four bolt. I had no problems with any of the 383's. Several of the four bolters were raced successfully. Having said all that, my most recent 383 is a GM short block "crate engine" Why?? because I couldn't purchase the parts and do all the machine work for the same price as GM charges. The GM 383 crate engine is a nice piece. Nice crank, nice rods and very nice block casting. The latest stroker ended up with Patriot aluminum heads, roller cam & rockers, Victor intake, Holly 780, MSD ign and a two shot NoS system. A strong reliable engine for my street toy.
Check out the thread - that was a studded block. Those are very experienced engine builders and racers. Register size has a lot to do with it - that's why 400's don't have the same problem, they use exactly the same bolts or studs. Same with big blocks, huge registers even on 2-bolt blocks.
I did. What was happening there is the bolts were streching enough to allow the caps to flex and pinch the bearings onto the journal. The cap won't flex if the bolts don't stretch.
For what it's worth I've built several 383's over the past years. Some, two bolt mains others were four bolt. I had no problems with any of the 383's. Several of the four bolters were raced successfully. Having said all that, my most recent 383 is a GM short block "crate engine" Why?? because I couldn't purchase the parts and do all the machine work for the same price as GM charges. The GM 383 crate engine is a nice piece. Nice crank, nice rods and very nice block casting. The latest stroker ended up with Patriot aluminum heads, roller cam & rockers, Victor intake, Holly 780, MSD ign and a two shot NoS system. A strong reliable engine for my street toy.
Can you get a Turn Key 383 engine like this one from GM crate? I've been looking everywhere but it seems that GM doesn't make a standard ZZ 383 turn key that has the same kind of valve covers and breather that the ZZ4 engine has. I like the way these look and would love to have the 383.
There is a lot of good info in this link that was posted and cutting corners on caps is not a good thing and studs DO NOT MAKE THE CAPS STRONGER as most guys think as its just better hardware and they are still stock grey cast caps.
It not really the HP but more stroke does side load the caps more and cause them to walk.