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front spring installation

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Old Jan 25, 2009 | 03:03 PM
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Default front spring installation

I am in the process of rebuilding my front suspension and am at the point where it is time to put the new front coil springs in. I used the jack and chain method to get the old one out but what is the best method for installing new ones? Also, how do you know that you have the spring oriented correctly in the spring pocket and lower control arm? Thanks.
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Old Jan 25, 2009 | 03:16 PM
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if you have new springs - i almost guarantee they look nothing like the old ones...when i did my car...i actually had to cut about a 1/4 turn off of mine just to get them compressed enough to install...

you know they are "seated" because there is a "pocket" for the end to "stop" in the lower control arm...

most people use the weight of the engine and a jack/or some method of compression to install the spring...i was fortunate to have the car on a rotisserie so i used my body weight (see pic)

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Old Jan 25, 2009 | 03:17 PM
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There was a thread on this subject about a week ago so if you search on posts by me you will find the thread that I had responded to. That thread should have all of the information that you need.



Rick B.
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Old Jan 25, 2009 | 03:26 PM
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The pocket that Rob mentioned has a 3/16" drain hole in it. The Assembly Manual says you should be able to see the cut end of the spring through that hole. So they give you about 3/16" leeway for the spring position. Nice huh?
Regards,
Alan
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Old Jan 25, 2009 | 05:11 PM
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The easiest way to get them in the correct position is to use an internal spring compressor.
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Old Jan 25, 2009 | 06:15 PM
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Default Spring Compressor

Not sure how this compares to previous methods mentioned, but for me it was pretty slick. I had never attempted this, but read someones mention of it on the forum. Took a couple short pieces of 2X4's connected together. Drilled a hole through them on the edge, ran a threaded rod, long enough to make it from bottom, through spring and out the shock tower. Put a couple greased washers and nut on the rod, and simply tightened it into position. Pretty much, as simple as that! Worked so good I kept the set-up, in case I ever attempt it again.
If you want a picture or two, email me.
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Old Jan 25, 2009 | 06:32 PM
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Originally Posted by ROBRICCI
i actually had to cut about a 1/4 turn off of mine just to get them compressed enough to install...

I would steer clear of this approach for 2 reasons:

1. When you cut coils off a coil spring you will increase the spring weight causing a stiffening effect.

2. If you cut 1/4 of a turn off the spring may not seat correctly once installed. The pockets have recessions for the coil end to seat in as Alan 71 mentioned and removing a partial coil may introduce alignment issues.

I hapen to have a set of spring compressors here and as it turns out, i've used them far more than I thought I ever would. It's simply one of the safest ways to R/I coil springs.

Kelly
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Old Jan 25, 2009 | 08:31 PM
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Originally Posted by timd02
I am in the process of rebuilding my front suspension and am at the point where it is time to put the new front coil springs in. I used the jack and chain method to get the old one out but what is the best method for installing new ones? Also, how do you know that you have the spring oriented correctly in the spring pocket and lower control arm? Thanks.
Coil spring compression tool. If you make your own out of threaded rod be certain to use metal plates as opposed to the suggested wooden blocks. Alans' advise is correct for the spring orientation.

Work safely.
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Old Jan 25, 2009 | 09:02 PM
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So where do you hook the spring compressor on the spring? It seems if you attached it to the very bottom coil, you wouldn't be able to seat it in the lower control arm. Also, how easy is it to position the spring once it is compressed if need be?

Think I am going to do the 5/8 all thread through the shock mount method and attach spring compressor bar to the spring and compress up into the spring tower. Do I have that right? Thanks.
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Old Jan 25, 2009 | 09:09 PM
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KELLY....

i should have elaborated a little more...

the problem with the spring (why i cut 1/4 of a turn off) was because where the spring seated...if you set it in the seat...then the top didn't seat - in other words there seemed to be 1/4 of a turn too much...

now i've cut springs before - and as long as you dont get them hot...(used a cut wheel) ive never had an issue...i called the supplier for help - and they said they never had an issue before..of course...who knows how many they've sold?...

other than the fact that the car may sit a little lower...i dont perceive any problems with the cuts...

RR
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Old Jan 25, 2009 | 09:50 PM
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Originally Posted by timd02
So where do you hook the spring compressor on the spring? It seems if you attached it to the very bottom coil, you wouldn't be able to seat it in the lower control arm. Also, how easy is it to position the spring once it is compressed if need be?

Think I am going to do the 5/8 all thread through the shock mount method and attach spring compressor bar to the spring and compress up into the spring tower. Do I have that right? Thanks.
Just the reverse of how you took it apart. Locate the all-thread through the upper and lower a arms as if it is the shock. ie: through upper control arm, through the coil and through the lower control arm. A steel plate at the bottom and top of the all thread; then secure and tighten down with washers/nuts. Locate the spring in relation to the lower arm drain hole and compress spring until you can re-attach the suspension opposite to the manner in which you disassembled. (ball-joint?)
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Old Jan 25, 2009 | 10:43 PM
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Look at the postings in C3 General..."Spring Compressing." I asked a similar question and got a lot of good comments. I just posted a reply where I used someone suggestion and technique using a jack and chain to install VBP 550 pound springs. This technique was really easy.

This must be spring compressing season.
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Old Jan 26, 2009 | 12:49 PM
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If you cut the coil (cut upper side of coil), usually the best results are when you reseat the spring in the upper pocket (3/16s or so) as intended by the GM servivce manual and let the lower sit as it falls into the lower pocket with the new alignment.

If not aligning in the upper pocket seat, you'll get the 4X4 ride height. That's been my experience with doing this several times now.
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Old Jan 26, 2009 | 01:17 PM
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Originally Posted by Alan 71
The pocket that Rob mentioned has a 3/16" drain hole in it. The Assembly Manual says you should be able to see the cut end of the spring through that hole. So they give you about 3/16" leeway for the spring position. Nice huh?
Regards,
Alan

I didn't know this when I put my springs in, I put them against the stop in the lower control arm.
This caused alot of noise to come from my front end.
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Old Jan 26, 2009 | 01:20 PM
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I put mine in this summer, when I did the front end. Do it just like you took them off with the jack and a chain if you feel you need it.

I got the jack undeneath the a arm and jacked it up intil I was able to kick the spring into the pocket, then dropped it a couple of inches to rotate the spring into the hole on the bottom a arm.
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