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350 SB Rebuild

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Old Jan 27, 2009 | 02:20 PM
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Default 350 SB Rebuild (new pics added)

Well, I finally saw what a wiped lobe on a cam looks like:



And I have two wiped lobes.

I've decided to rebuild the engine (did a top end rebuild a few years ago, didn't help). I spent the weekend taking it apart. Here's some pics:











I am having the cylinders bored out to a 355 (30 over). The crank needs to be turned as you can probably see from the picture. I'm looking to replace the pistons with flat tops and the cam with one in the 280 range. Still trying to decide which one, but it will be a Comp Cam. That's about as far as I've gotten so far. I'll be taking the block and heads to a machine shop in Norfolk, VA next week. I'll be sure to post pics as I progress.

Also, since I'm at it, I decided to replace the steering system with a Steeroids Rack and Pinion system. Oh, and I want to change out the heater fan, and while I'm at it...

Don't they have a vaccine for this disease yet!!!

Last edited by Buzzardz_vette; Jun 8, 2009 at 10:19 AM. Reason: (new pics added)
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Old Jan 27, 2009 | 05:52 PM
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I had two Comp Cam XE series flat tappets wipe lobes. I switched to a Crane hyd roller. More expensive but worth the peace of mind. Oh, and before I had the two Comp Cams, I had a Crane Powermax flat tappet with no issues. Personal opinion, stay away from Comp, there is better out there.

Also, look into stroking to a 383. Not much more than doing the 355 and definitely more fun.
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Old Jan 27, 2009 | 06:00 PM
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I've heard the same thing about Comp. I went with a Lunati Voodoo grind...couldn't be happier with it.
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Old Jan 27, 2009 | 06:06 PM
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Your money would be better spent on replacing those 882 heads than taking them to a machine shop, unless you're going for the "correct" look.
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Old Jan 27, 2009 | 07:14 PM
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My .02 worth...I think doing a 383 will only cost a little bit more than putting a 355 together. Likewise, I'd toss the old heads, there are much better out there etc unless the orginal look is important to you.

As for cams...I stick with Comp, I've ran Comp XE-R lobes on my LS1 Trans Am for 80,000+ miles...no problems.
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Old Jan 27, 2009 | 09:14 PM
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It is the original engine so I'm am trying to keep it as original as possible. Some things aren't original, but I'd like to keep most of it original. I will look into 383 and roller cams. Thanks.
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Old Jan 27, 2009 | 10:13 PM
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Stand the crank on end. Less susceptable to bending that way
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Old Jan 28, 2009 | 12:33 AM
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Originally Posted by Quil
I've heard the same thing about Comp. I went with a Lunati Voodoo grind...couldn't be happier with it.
I really like my Lunati VooDoo too. No issues, with the GM EOS oil additive after 10K miles. However, you may want to seriously consider a roller cam for more power and no problems. Also, if I had to do it again, I'd build a 383 instead of the 355. Nows your chance!
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Old Jan 28, 2009 | 09:28 AM
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{Are there folks that still believe a cast iron crank with a 20,000 psi modulus will [permanently] bend under its own weight?}
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Old Jan 29, 2009 | 01:44 AM
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Originally Posted by PeteZO6
Stand the crank on end. Less susceptable to bending that way
Yes, thats the better way to store it.
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Old Mar 5, 2009 | 04:12 PM
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Well, here's the Comp Cam roller kit I'm looking at getting (K12-423-8):

http://www.compperformancegroupstore...Category_Code=

My friend has it in his 73 and really likes it. It's a roller cam. What do you all think about it? Any place I should order it from as far as cost and vendor reliability?

I decided against the 383 (would cost just too much money right now). The 355 should work fine for what I want. The engine is ready at the machine shop. they're just waiting for the cam kit so that they can install the springs and valves in the heads.
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Old Mar 5, 2009 | 04:58 PM
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I also had a comp 268XE wipe a lobe in it's first 5,000 miles (along w/countless others that I've heard about). No more comp cams for me. They offered to send me a replacement one for free and I told them that I'm not into changing my cam nearly as often as I change the oil and to keep it on the shelf where it belongs. I'm sure they still make some good cams but will trust my luck elsewhere going forward.
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Old Mar 6, 2009 | 11:59 AM
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Originally Posted by WillEE
I also had a comp 268XE wipe a lobe in it's first 5,000 miles (along w/countless others that I've heard about). No more comp cams for me. They offered to send me a replacement one for free and I told them that I'm not into changing my cam nearly as often as I change the oil and to keep it on the shelf where it belongs. I'm sure they still make some good cams but will trust my luck elsewhere going forward.
Hopefully, with the roller cam, I shouldn't have that problem anymore.
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Old Mar 6, 2009 | 12:55 PM
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Originally Posted by Buzzardz_vette
Hopefully, with the roller cam, I shouldn't have that problem anymore.

I just put the same Comp roller in my 360

she made 444hp/448tq

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-t...440-440-a.html
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Old Mar 6, 2009 | 02:29 PM
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Originally Posted by PeteZO6
Stand the crank on end. Less susceptable to bending that way

This is one of those old, old arguments that will just not go away: You should store a crankshaft on it's end, so it won't take a bend.......No, man, you should store it on it's side, so it can't fall over!!! I don't know which is right, but I kinda like the idea of not letting it fall over.....


Scott
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Old Mar 6, 2009 | 02:32 PM
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Originally Posted by Buzzardz_vette
Hopefully, with the roller cam, I shouldn't have that problem anymore.
Roller Cams are definitely the way to go these days - money well spent!!!
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Old Mar 6, 2009 | 11:18 PM
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I've heard you should always hang a crank from a piece of rope from the ceiling, this puts it in tension where steel and iron are the strongest....

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Old Mar 7, 2009 | 01:45 AM
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Originally Posted by Buzzardz_vette
Well, I finally saw what a wiped lobe on a cam looks like:

And here what a billet steel cam looks like, ask for a billet steel core not that concrete looking crap that seems to be common place these days, no wonder they are wiping lobes.

Comp Cams will grind you a billet cam for $40 extra, pretty sure they didn't even charge me for mine and it was a small base circle too



Last edited by MotorHead; Mar 7, 2009 at 01:48 AM.
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Old Mar 9, 2009 | 08:44 AM
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Originally Posted by MotorHead
And here what a billet steel cam looks like, ask for a billet steel core not that concrete looking crap that seems to be common place these days, no wonder they are wiping lobes.

Comp Cams will grind you a billet cam for $40 extra, pretty sure they didn't even charge me for mine and it was a small base circle too
I did not know that. I will be sure to ask about it. Thanks.
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Old Mar 9, 2009 | 08:57 AM
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Default danglin' cranks

Originally Posted by fauxrs2
I've heard you should always hang a crank from a piece of rope from the ceiling, this puts it in tension where steel and iron are the strongest....rofl:
Originally Posted by scottyp99
This is one of those old, old arguments that will just not go away: You should store a crankshaft on it's end, so it won't take a bend.......No, man, you should store it on it's side, so it can't fall over!!! I don't know which is right, but I kinda like the idea of not letting it fall over.....Scott
Originally Posted by 7T1vette
{Are there folks that still believe a cast iron crank with a 20,000 psi modulus will [permanently] bend under its own weight?}
Originally Posted by PeteZO6
Stand the crank on end. Less susceptable to bending that way
One of the best auto machine shops within our region ... has several racks where cranks are hung from their flywheel flanges ... reminds me of the stemware racks behind-above cocktail bar. Regardless what you might speculate, danglin' does keep 'em off the floor, outta the way & safe.
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