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I have the opportunity to get 454 big block out of a 1987 TBI truck. The motor was rebuilt 40,xxx miles ago. I was wondering if this would be a good canidate for use in my '69 that is originally a small block. It would of coarse be converted to carb-but i was wondering with a little head work or even new heads would it produce good power similar to earlier big blocks...or would I be wasting my time.
You can make that motor do anything you want with enough money.
You could have it bored and stroked, pistons, heads, cam, intake.... and it should run great, but to have that much work done to the motor is probably going to be around $8000. It's been a while since I checked prices, so it might be a bit high. My boss turned his 454 into a 496 with all the goodies and I think it was around $8000
yeah I know anything is possible with money. I was just wondering what differences, if any, do they have from earlier blocks. Stock they are less horsepower-but can i assume with higher compression pistons, cam, ignition and some head work I would be right back an earlier big blocks power?
Also what issues would I be faced with in converting the small block car over to a big block. I'm assuming the bellhousing is different but can I run my M21?
The beauty about sbc and bbc's are the fact that they use the same motor mounts and transmission bellhousing botl pattern. you will need a clutch and flywheel for a big block but that's about it. the rest should bolt up. you will need accessory brackets for a big block as well.
As for your power question. Those mid to late 80's motors had some really low compression ratios with large chambered heads probabably around 120cc's or so. I think their compression ratios were in teh very low 8's. The big block I rebuilt out of an 84 carbed engine worked out to 7.75:1! Wow. I put in some mini domed pistons from Keith Black and used a set of oval ports from a 396 with 114cc combustion chambers to get the compression up to a more reasonable 9.2:1.
You can make power with any big block you just need to select the correct components.
Your engine probably has peanut port heads. Great for a tow truck motor, not so great for a sports car. The block, crank and rods should be fine, swap pistons and heads and you can end up with a very fun ride.
From: Graceland in a Not Correctly Restored Stingray
Originally Posted by L88Plus
Your engine probably has peanut port heads. Great for a tow truck motor, not so great for a sports car. The block, crank and rods should be fine, swap pistons and heads and you can end up with a very fun ride.
Having had three 454 Duallies over the years ('79, '84 & '91), in my experience I wouldn't re-purpose a BB truck engine for sports car duty w/o an extensive makeover, including new slugs for better CR, modern performance intake (such as an Air-Gap), a fairly large Demon carb, some decent heads (alum preferred), and roller valvetrain. Block (9.800" deck?), crank and rods ought to prove sufficient for all but the most hardcore of build ups. Add a short water pump, correct pulleys and brackets (it's well worth not bodging junk bits together), balance, blueprint and enjoy.
As for the difficulty factor, early C3s came with BBs and all of the necessary parts are still available, which makes the SB/BB swap a relatively straight forward process. Along with converting from an auto to manual transmission, this is one of the best mods I ever made to my SA. Do it right and you'll feel the same way too.
I agree-a thorough make-over is neccesary. I was figuring on new pistons, Heads, full roller valvetrain, intake, and carb to match. Basically all I would be using is the block, crank, and rods. How much hp/punishment will the stock bottom end hold up to?
My point is...that the total $$$ you will end up spending on the FREE truck motor (machine shop boring, milling, etc., new heads and internal components bought separately, etc.) will be about the same as the purchase price of a new crate engine--and you'll get a warranty on the crate engine. What do you get with the truck motor? {That's just my thoughts on this issue for you to consider before you decide.} Good luck with your selection.
My point is...that the total $$$ you will end up spending on the FREE truck motor (machine shop boring, milling, etc., new heads and internal components bought separately, etc.) will be about the same as the purchase price of a new crate engine--and you'll get a warranty on the crate engine. What do you get with the truck motor? {That's just my thoughts on this issue for you to consider before you decide.} Good luck with your selection.
I thoroughly respect your opinion, and your probably right. The cost would probably be close to the same with a lot less time and ibuprofen involved; however, I really enjoy building motors and I learn more and more each time. I've built my 327 and a friends 383 stroker. The only big block I've ever touched was a top end rebuild on an olds 455 rocket when I myself couldn't even drive yet. I enjoy all the math and figuring involved in motor builds and the reward in the end knowing that you built it is worth way more to me than a crate motor is. I'm eager to learn about big blocks and what works, what doesn't, do this but not that, ect, ect. I know a little about small blocks and LS motors and would like to expand my knowledge into big blocks. Just trying to make sure my starting point doesn't put me behind and spinning my wheels from the starting line!
I'll guarantee I can start with a decent block, crank and factory rods, buy a pair of 049 or 781 head cores, have all the machine work done and purchase needed parts and be well under the cost of any crate engine. Plus, I'll know the exact quality of machine work and internal parts. There's nothing like the satisfaction of laying a pair of black stripes a block long (or longer!) and knowing you're the man that built the mill.