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Ok, I'm getting closer.. need help/advise on shifter hole in floor and clutch rod hole in firewall. I need to drill/cut them both out real soon.
Give me what ya got! its a first for me..
The clutch rod hole should be there. There is a plate with 3 small screws holding it on. Remove the screws and plate. The boot goes over the rod and you will see on the boot there is 3 holes where the new screws will screw into the old holes on the firewall.
I just did a 73 conversion from an auto to 5 speed and the hole for the stick was there. It was actually to big and we had to make a sheet metal cover for the hole to make it the same size as the 4 speed hole. Not a big deal. I am goingto be doing a 77 this week which I know there is no hole at all. He is trying to get a template form Keisler. Does anyone else have a template for the later C3s?
I purchased the stock rubber shifter boot that bolts to the tranny tunnel and used it as a template. By the shape of it, it gave me a really good idea where to start cutting on my 76.
I ended up making a larger panel for easy access but the shifter boot help me locate the actual hole for the shifter. Good luck.
Hi 71,
I'd like to help but this is all I can find... for the clutch rod hole and 3 holes for the rod boot look at UPC 0, sheet A-10 and UPC 7, sheet C3 in the 71 AIM.
The hole for the shifter has a formed plate and a formed boot assembly, because of their shape I think you'll be able to see where they fit (one on each side of the fiberglass) on the transmission tunnel. Look at UPC 7, Sheet B7 in the AIM.
Regards,
Alan
PS: G and J beat me to it while I was looking at the AIM and typing!!!!
i'm finding the lower boot available but not any plate for the underside. do i just put screws in the fiberglass to hold the boot or make a lower plate? does the shape of the boot only fit the hump in the right spot or is there any point of reference for the correct position?
The clutch rod hole should be there. There is a plate with 3 small screws holding it on. Remove the screws and plate. The boot goes over the rod and you will see on the boot there is 3 holes where the new screws will screw into the old holes on the firewall.
I just did a 73 conversion from an auto to 5 speed and the hole for the stick was there. It was actually to big and we had to make a sheet metal cover for the hole to make it the same size as the 4 speed hole. Not a big deal. I am goingto be doing a 77 this week which I know there is no hole at all. He is trying to get a template form Keisler. Does anyone else have a template for the later C3s?
Gordon, I don't know if the pictures I have here are of any help to you or not. The hole you need in the '77 will be right where the tunnel has the concave under the auto lever. You can see the piece I cut out and then fabricated a piece to cover the hole.
i'm finding the lower boot available but not any plate for the underside. do i just put screws in the fiberglass to hold the boot or make a lower plate? does the shape of the boot only fit the hump in the right spot or is there any point of reference for the correct position?
If you need any measurements from this (68) or the bottom plate which I can remove the rust from beforehand if you'd like, let me know.
Last picture is of the clutch rod hole and boot on the firewall.
Gordon, I don't know if the pictures I have here are of any help to you or not. The hole you need in the '77 will be right where the tunnel has the concave under the auto lever. You can see the piece I cut out and then fabricated a piece to cover the hole.
Gordon, I don't know if the pictures I have here are of any help to you or not. The hole you need in the '77 will be right where the tunnel has the concave under the auto lever. You can see the piece I cut out and then fabricated a piece to cover the hole.
Just curious on why you cut the hole so big in the first place. Is it possible to just cut the existing floor to the correct size so the bigger plate you made is not needed. Or where you looking for a flat spot on which to install everything. Making the plate would be no problem either. It looks very good. I have looked at your site many times. Good writeup.
between the manual and these pics, this dont look too bad.. need to get out there and get the auto shifter/console and all out of there and go from there.. thanks
I plan to drop the engine and trans as an assembly, can i leave the shifter and linkage installed and just remove the chrome handle untill its in place?
Just curious on why you cut the hole so big in the first place. Is it possible to just cut the existing floor to the correct size so the bigger plate you made is not needed. Or where you looking for a flat spot on which to install everything. Making the plate would be no problem either. It looks very good. I have looked at your site many times. Good writeup.
That is exactly why I cut out the whole indent, I wanted the flat area.
Gordon, I don't know if the pictures I have here are of any help to you or not. The hole you need in the '77 will be right where the tunnel has the concave under the auto lever. You can see the piece I cut out and then fabricated a piece to cover the hole.
Dear Binny,
Gordon will be helping me with my 77 Auto to Manual conversion using a TKO500 as well. Great write up you have here, thank you very much. I will be installing a new GM Crate 350HO at the same time along with Hooker Headers and side pipes. I cannot wait to get this all installed and back out on the road. Your write up is inspiring and informative so thanks again and wish us luck.
Best regards,
David
77Sleeper
Dear Binny,
Gordon will be helping me with my 77 Auto to Manual conversion using a TKO500 as well. Great write up you have here, thank you very much. I will be installing a new GM Crate 350HO at the same time along with Hooker Headers and side pipes. I cannot wait to get this all installed and back out on the road. Your write up is inspiring and informative so thanks again and wish us luck.
Best regards,
David
77Sleeper
David, I cannot think of anyone that I would rather have helping me on a project like this than Gordon. Gordon has been down this road and he isn't happy till he gets it right! Get ready for a new driving experience you are going to love it
Thanks Binny. Question for you about the bracket. Did you discuss and show where you had to weld the bracket to the frame in the front end to handle the Z-Bar? I'll read it again but with the engine out the location is not so easy to spot.
Thanks for your help.
David
Thanks Binny. Question for you about the bracket. Did you discuss and show where you had to weld the bracket to the frame in the front end to handle the Z-Bar? I'll read it again but with the engine out the location is not so easy to spot.
Thanks for your help.
David
.... He is trying to get a template form Keisler. Does anyone else have a template for the later C3s?
I did receive an e-mail over the weekend asking about a template but I thought he was referring to the hole in the tunnel for the shifter?
For the automatic cars trying to mount the master cylinder, there should be a hole already in the firewall with a rubber grommet in it. The few C3's that I did in house that were automatic had this rubber grommet in the hole already. Remember, on a C3, the master cylindr will need to be "clocked" so that the ports on top for the pressure line and fill line are facing about 2:00. This allows the pedal pushrod to line up perfectly to the clutch pedal arm.
Sorry for the confusion. I actually asked about both items but not a problem.
Richard, I have sent you a direct e-mail regarding upgrading to a hydraulic set up versus the Z-Bar Weld In System.
I have asked Binnie if he has a template to assist in manufacturing the plate he used on his 77. This would be exactly what I would like to do with my 77 and it looks great.
So everyone is helping and I appreciate that a lot.
Gordon was here today, what a productive day and what a nice guy. Had a ball working on the 77 project.
I did receive an e-mail over the weekend asking about a template but I thought he was referring to the hole in the tunnel for the shifter?
For the automatic cars trying to mount the master cylinder, there should be a hole already in the firewall with a rubber grommet in it. The few C3's that I did in house that were automatic had this rubber grommet in the hole already. Remember, on a C3, the master cylindr will need to be "clocked" so that the ports on top for the pressure line and fill line are facing about 2:00. This allows the pedal pushrod to line up perfectly to the clutch pedal arm.
Richard
Tech Support
FYI: Richard, on '77 and later C3s, the hole in the firewall for the clutch rod is cut in the steel but covered with fiberglass. The three holes for the boot are dimpled but not factory drilled. C3s prior to '77 have a rubber plug as you indicated.