Hey guys. I recently finished my window regulator(teeth were gone towards the top end of the range) and weatherstrip replacement on of passenger door on my '75 coupe with power windows. It took me a while to adjust my windows, but I finally got them to seal ok. However, they went up and down fine before I moved the car. I took her out for a drive and while going about 65mph, I couldn't get either to roll up all the way. The motors (both sides, but only replaced one regulator) seem to give up about 2" short of the T-tops. When I brought her home, I tried the windows again in the driveway, car running and off, same issue.
However, if I roll up the driver side with the door open, all is well, but that doesn't go for the passenger side.

A little side information:
-I also installed a battery quick disconnect ("frankenstein-switch" style) so maybe the isn't enough power going to the motors? (car turns over fine)
-I adjusted my windows to the extreme inboard adjustment to get them to seal properly. If I back this adjustment off, I won't seal against the B-pillar w/strip.

Any thoughts on what the problem can be?

 

How fast do the windows go down? Smooth and even or fairly quick? If quick, could be the spring orientation/tension not correct. I worked on both sides to clean the tracks etc. and ended up with the pass. side rising and sealing correctly but it drop quicker than the driver side, which is doing the same as you describe. Almost, mine stops with about a 1/2" gap at the top when the door is closed.

 

Mine seem to move rather normally. Both move at an even speed compared to each other. H

However, they do struggle to move towards the top of the range where they get stuck. But after about 1/2" to 1" they begin to move normally and smoothly.

 

Check the springs. The wind up spring is to resist the downward movement and help the upward. If they are weak or missing, the window will struggle up, but will likely fall down.

 

How can I check them? I feel the springs is ok in the passenger side because I put in a whole new regulator assembly. That included new gear, spring, arms, rollers, spring and horizontal channel.
I feel since it's new, it shouldn't be the problem. Also, the driver side has almost the identical problem and that regulator is much older, possibly original. To me, that says both springs are ok, and that there is a common problem between them. That's why I feel it may be an adjustment issue or amperage problem (my new quick disconnect could be a bottle neck). Though I have been wrong before...

For info, this is how my install went down:
I removed the old regulator, popped out the old motor, put it in the new one and bolted it all back in. The vertical channels, motor, glass, and glass channel/hardware were all reused. I cleaned all of the channels the best I could and applied new white lithium grease to all of the moving surfaces/interfaces.

 

TTT
Anyone have any other input?

 

Is it clicking at full reach?

This is what I ended up doing:
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ +++++++++++++

1980 Power windor repair. Stripped Gear.

WOW!!! This was by far the most strangely-difficult of any Vette repairs or mods...

Since the teeth on the regulator gear were slightly stripped, I went ahead to Ecklers and bought the "Regulator Gear Repair kit" ($34) Item# 27487 http://www.ecklers.com/product.asp?p...7&dept_id=1673

and a new PW motor Gear ($20) Item# 34402 . http://www.ecklers.com/product.asp?p...2&dept_id=1160



First: Lifted the window by hand to the fully raised position

1. I took off the int. door panel

2. Took off the PW Motor cover panel (thin tin cover)

3. Used 3/8 wrench to loosen the three bolts which hold the PW motor to base plate. (loosen, not removed)

4. Jammed a few screw drivers at base of window rails, through the outer bracket (basically I wedged the window to stay in the upright position so it would fall down, acting like a guillotine on my fingers).

5. Un-hooked the power socket from the harness to the PW motor, fully removed the three bolts mentioned (step #3) above from the motor base plate, removed the PW motor from the door (you have to wiggle & pry that little thing out of there).

6. Took off the old PW gear, cleaned the area well, added new grease to the gears & installed the new PW motor gear wheel.

7. I DID NOT REMOVE WINDOW ASSY TO REPAIR THE GEARS

8. I DID bore out the three aluminum rivets.
Once the whole assy was freed from the three rivets I could slide the regulator gears towards the little opening in the door compartment so I could get better acces to this.

9. I used the new regulator repair gear as a template. Using a black sharpie marker to mark where the three holes should go.

10. Screwed holes in the three indicated black sharpie spots.

11. screwed the new regulator repair gear into the three freshly drilled holes.

12. NEW Gear teeth!

13. Pushed like mad for 20 minutes trying to align the assy back into the holes where the factory rivets were. Fortunately wife came in and put bolt in the hole to at least match one up.

THIS IS A TWO PERSON JOB at this point.

14. installed the other two bolts (where the rivets used to be) & tightened it down well. Locking washers here as I am sure as H#LL NOT going to want to do this job again!

15. Re-installed PW motor into base plate, tightened the three bolts secure.

16. Buttoned it all back up.

17. GOOD TO GO!

This was by far the most confusing & "interesting" of all my Vette adventures.
I hope that the passenger side NEVER goes out. If it does, I might send it to a body shop and pay someone to do it!!!
Nah' probably not, it wasn't that hard...Well, yes, it was that hard. but, not really. The satisfaction came from successfully repairing this myself & sweating over it.

I hope this helps someone who has this same problem down the road.

Please PM me and if you're stuck I can assist!
Thanks again to jdp6000 (from the CAC) for his valuable help and Moosie on this!

Andy



http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-g...-stripped.html

 

No, but that was the problem that got the whole ball running. At the top ofthe range she would skip. I replaced the regulator as one of those 'while I'm at it' repairs and now the motors just 'stalls' but no skipping now. I have to agree. It was one of the most...unique repairs I've done so far haha.

 

The kill switch seems to be a dubious culprit. Obviously, you could remove it and see how things work to eliminate that idea. If it is turning over and other electricals are working correctly... but stranger things have been known to happen.

Alternatively, you could run temporary ground wires to the window motors to ensure you are getting a good ground.

 

The kill switch? Do you mean the window switch?
As far as other electricals, everything is working fine (that I can see). She does turn over without any problems (might have been a little sluggish the last time. I'll try her again).

I'll try the temporary ground cables and see where that gets me. I think I'll also re-adjust the anti rattle pads as well and see if that helps. Thank you for the help.

Anyone else have any ideas?

 

When you had the regulator out did you install the spring with the regulator set at the full window up position? The spring is suppose to compress when you roll the window down and expand when you roll it up. The expansion gives it the extra push it needs to go full up.



Jim

 

2x

 

The kill switch I was referencing was battery disconnect you mentioned. Apologies for any confusion.

I agree with the comments on the spring positioning, that was what I also was talking about in an earlier post.

Good luck getting it worked out.

 

I didn't have to set the spring position. It was all an assembly. Here's the link to what I bought:

http://ecklers.com/product.asp?pf_id...R&dept_id=1673

As you can see, it's just a bolt in. No worries about the spring.

BTAL,
I don't know how I missed that. I think of thought of every switch but the battery disconnect. Yeah I will definitely be checking the kill switch before I take off the door panels again.

Thanks or all the hope so far guys. Keep the ideas floating this way. I'm not sure though when I will get to it again. The weather been bad and I've been busy.

 

Do you know if there is a requirement when installing the motor? Do you have to set the regular in the full up position?

Jim

 

No I don't, but according to the instructions, I just place the motor in and go. As long as the gears are meshing. The assembly comes with a 'lock bolt' installed to hold the regulator compressed until you get the motor in. You have to install the motor before you can remove the bolt. Furthermore, I don't think the position of the regulator makes a difference because there is no limit on the amount of revolutions the motor can turn. Therefore, the only limit is with the regulator itself.

 

If you are okay with the install of the regulator maybe you should adjust the window some more. Maybe some fine tuning...

Remove the door panel. Have the window full up. while sitting in the car undo the bolts that adjust the in/out tension. loosen it up a hair or two. Tighten the bolts to hold it at the new setting and try powering the window up and down. Do this all with the door closed.

Jim

 

If the switches are old athey are probably corroded and not supplying full current to the motors. I found new switches made mine work like new.
Bernie

 

You know, I now remember the adjustment instructions in the AIM saying something just like that but I always adjusted it from outside the car. I have to say, that will be a sight to see because I'm not the smallest guy haha. All 6'3" and 280lbs is going to have fun with that
Bernie, that's a good point. Assuming the adjustments still yield problems, I'll look at that next. I'd rather not dive into the console if I don't have to.

I think I have enough to try now. One of them should do the trick. When I get my chance to work on it, I'll post to give updates.

Thanks for all of your help.

 

greg75vette
Check all adj. as Jim said & clean el. connections. Test w/o battery cutoff.