Does anyone out there use these cylinder heads? Please do not discuss other brands. I just want to hear about these particular cylinder heads.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/SBC-C...QQcmdZViewItem

Best regards
Arne

 

 

Quote "We can do this because a major well known warehouse distributor is shutting their doors and we were able to negotiate a deal to take all of his "latest designed" SBC aluminum heads off his hands at a reduced price and pass the savings onto you!

Note: These are brand name heads but due to the low introductory price we were asked to not list the manufacturers name. "

I think it's Johnny Wong from Guangdong

I especially like this paragraph where they tell you the "TOP QUALITY BRAND NAMEs of the parts " or maybe they don't

Quote- "Assembled with the following "TOP QUALITY BRAND NAME" components:

- Stainless Steel swirl polished one piece 2.02" intake and 1.60" exhaust valves. Valves are .100 long for use with hydraulic or solid lifter cams up to .600" lift, std length for under .500 lift.

- UP TO 1.43 Diam. Dual valve springs for use with hydraulic or solid lifter cams up to .600" lift, 1.250 diameter for less than .500 lift.

- Retainers machined from heat treated bar stock & black oxided

- Heat treated machined steel locks

- Premium viton seals

- Premium 3/8" studs and guide plates, 7/16" available upon request."

If they are FOS on the website I can't even imagine what the heads would be like. Spend a couple hundred more and get some good heads made in America like AFR, Edelbrock, World, Brodix etc

 

Sure thing, but have you ever used or inspected these cylinder heads? I am not very much worried about where in the world they have been produced, so please keep this on a technical level and skip promoting other brands. They are selling a lot of these ProComp cylinder heads on eBay, so it must be a reason for this.... would'nt you think? Anyone else please....
rgds
Arne

 

These are junk. Dyno results don't lie. These guys had a breakdown of the issues with these listed but pulled it, I would bet because of the threat of legal issues. Do an online search. There are some that had the seats ground into the aluminum because the centerlines were off. The CC's varied by 5 CC on the same head. Exhaust ports misaligned. Major core shift. Buy what you want. The reason they sell a lot of them is because they are cheap and assembled with the cheapest parts they can find. You get what you pay for sometimes. Sounds like you already made your mind up anyway.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-t...omp-heads.html

 

Sorry just trying to help, don't know what I am talking about, I always post before I think, usually with no knowledge at all on the subject.

Go ahead and buy them, shouldn't have any problems

 

 

http://www.boatstoreonline.com/procomp.html

102 HP difference between the Procomp CNC 210 and the AFR 195 Eliminator . Guess which one makes more power. Think the as cast 190's might make less than their 210 CNC head?

Maybe, "Buy American" don't apply in Norway.

 

I am sorry if I am hurting your national feelings, but right now I am not trying find the origin of manufacturer or discuss politics. I'll just state that I love vintage american cars and that I have bought every single bolt of my 78 Corvette from USA, without asking who is the true manufacturer. I think that is too much asking from your over seas friends in Europe ......

The reason for asking is very simple; I waiting for pair ProComps190/68cc (for my 383CUI) to arrive. It wouldn't hurt hearing what you guys had experienced with these particular cylinder heads, while waiting. I specially concerned about quality of cast, milling, outer and inner finish. I am by no means concerned about top end performance compared with other brands costing two times or three more than I have payed for this pair. What I can see from the given flow specs (not knowning the quality of these figures) the cylinder heads will fit my demands fully.
best regards
Arne

 

Didn't hurt my feelings, just trying to answer your post to the best of my abilities as are others with considerable expertise. You asked the question but don't want to hear the real answer. This is not my problem but could very well be yours.

Bolt them to a flow bench, Check actual port sizes, CC the chambers, check installed spring pressures and heights, Check guide clearances and compare all the above on all 8 cylinders. Check for debris, clean up casting flash A competent builder would definately do all the above on an unknown head for a performance build.

If your concerned about quality of cast and inner finish you bought the wrong heads. Look at the pictures. These have as cast ports with no machining, looks like the chambers might be as cast also, can't tell.

If performance and quality of valves, springs, keepers and retainers is a concern, you bought the wrong heads as they failed to mention the manufacturers of any of these parts.

You have a 383 yet you say performance don't matter to you on your head choice. Heads are the biggest single factor relating to performance on any engine build.

If price is a concern, stock vortecs outperform these for less money with 170 CC ports. Only advantage I see is the scrap value is higher.

As we say in the USA " A pig wearing lipstick is still a pig"

Did you even read this?
http://www.boatstoreonline.com/procomp.html

As this points out 102 HP difference between these and AFR 195 eliminators. This is with everything else the same. That is about an extra $800 for over 100 HP. This is the cheapest HP you could buy. Your spending $600 plus shipping plus disassembly and reassembly, plus parts for 0 Horsepower. This is the most expensive HP you will buy.

 

You are not hurting anyone's feelings, I live in Canada anyway

You should have posted that you already bought them. You should have asked about them before you bought them. My first post was to discourage you from buying them. Yes I do have experience with these heads in the fact a friend had these on his small block and it took him 10 minutes to tell me all that was wrong with them and the how much he had to pay to have them them fixed at a machine shop before he could even use them. He told me he would never buy anything like them again.

Now what you have to do is what is outlined above by 63mako and that is get them checked by a machine shop that knows small block chevy heads. Everything has to be checked from installed spring heights to chamber cc's to valve guide clearance. By the time these heads are ready to bolt on ( assuming that is even possible ) these heads will cost you more than the heads I mentioned. We are trying to help here on this site if you haven't figured that out yet. If you don't get these heads checked at a machine shop that knows what they are doing and bolt them on out of the box, good luck to you.

So again I am sorry, but only because you bought them

 

I highly recommend the Pro-Comp shaft mount rocker system (about $200 on FleaBay) to go with those heads! I am stupid fat lazy American who spent $1400 on my T&D rocker arms for my CNC'd AFR heads because I am a nationalist and too STUPID to realize the Chinese make better products than Larry Torres does in Nevada, USA (Larry must have quite a gambling problem to subsidize with his EXCESSIVE prices compared to the highly intelligent and efficient Chinese people.) I'll bet if the Chinese ever get interested in NHRA drag racing they will kick Larry's behind allover the track, after all he is just another LAZY STUPID AMERICAN, just like the IDIOTS who built your Vette. I think you should sell the Vette and buy a old Lancia Delta Integral as that car uses FAR SUPERIOR European Engineering, then you won't be embarrased to pull up to your rich friend's in their R32's and RS3's while you are forced to drive a whory old American "pimpmobile". MY ADIVCE TO YOU MY European friend is to find a GREATER FOOL and sell him those heads and start over, I would rather have a set of rebuilt Vortec heads than those "time bombs" that are waiting to fail.

 

You finally got the answer you were looking for DOES ANYBODY OUT THERE USE THESE HEADS. although motorhead does not own a set he knows someone a friend that bought a set his friend had enough sense to pull his new bargain set of heads apart make sure he could run them without them coming apart ruining his engine, obviously had to spend more money on them before he could even use them. As far as the boat company finding the difference in power levels if you don't care about it thats fine but did you pay attention to what they said about what all was wrong with the heads, motorheads friend has backed them up found problems with them. I just wonder how much money you have in the rest of your engine build thats up for destruction with poor quality parts used, make no mistake at the cost of these heads they did not have the money to put better parts in them and still make a profit, things like stainless steel valves theres all kinds of different grades of stainless how well exhaust valves will hold up to heat, coil springs tons of different grades of wire they are made of. Aluminum different grades, heat treatng they need. Brodix for instance they made there first aluminum head back in 1969 there first SB chevy head 1971 they have been working with aluminum long time there valve seats are not coming loose from the aluminum. Brodix, AFR, Dart, Trick flow, edelbrock there heads cost more there not using every form of crap for parts, aluminum they can come up with.

 

No insult to you intended. You asked for advice. The extra $ spent on a set of high quality heads will be minor compared to a dropped seat, broken valve head, broken valve lock, valve bouncing off the top of a piston because of a broken spring or too tight of valve guide. or any number of other issues associated with the use of inferior parts. Glad you like american cars. We do too, that is why we are members here. Most of us post in an attempt to help fellow members. As far as "buy american" It is just the way it is. You will pay a little more upfront to be assured of a quality, well engineered product not something poorly copied from a quality, well engineered product. We just had a member on here within the last month that broke a stainless steel valve @ 5000 RPM on a new Big Block. First pass down the track. He used cheap valves speced by the builder of his PRO COMP HEADS! He is now building a new motor. I will see if I can find the post.

Found it!
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-t...-tripower.html

Might want to PM him and ask his opinion.

 

Why didn't you ask before you bought???

Since you already bought the heads, I am sure you will find that they are the best value heads out there, and will make any amount of HP/Torque that you say they will.

 

Please calm down friends. There is no need for such insulting utterances. Please keep this thread within scope of my request.

A.

 

You bought the heads they are on the way run them or try to stop them from coming your way two choices you have to make what anyone says on the forum does not matter your decision.

 

so would stock 882's...
My big block castings were nice for a NA motor but the parts used were s*%t. Fit an finish of machining was inferior to factory heads even. They have now been redone completely, new guides, some new seats, resurfaced, new seals, new ferrea valves, ect. I would have just bought something different. I understand that this same casting is finished by other US machining companies to a quality head though. Just named with a different brand, but has quality parts and machining.

 

Finally! imput from someone that actually bought these and used them...................And blew up his new motor........... @ 5000 rpm ..........in 4th gear .............on the first pass down the dragstrip.
One consolation for you. He is going to reuse them after extensive machine work and replacing every part on them including seats and guides. Everything replaced but the actual casting that also needs extensive machine work. These have less than one pass on them. Hope you have better luck. Maybe you are lucky and got the ones he refers to that got quality US machining and were built in the USA with the high quality parts but reading the E-bay ad and seeing the price, don't hold out much hope for that. Hmmm.. $600 for heads plus $800 parts and labor (US price, Don't know what a good machinist in Norway familiar with building high performance chevy heads would cost or if he exists) to remachine, install valve guides, new valve seats, new valves, new seals, new springs, new retainers, new locks, set up installed spring height and check pressure, CC cylinder heads, Resurface. Looks like $1400 total at least. Now you do have a set of heads that you are safe to use. Price of new AFR's $1400...........that produce 102 more HP. Good thing performance dosn't matter. (Im done.)
Buy American!

 

You forgot to mention the expense of fixing the damage to the engine short block

There is someone on FleaBay that takes these heads and goes through them, they are more money but I would still not buy them

To the original poster, I only try and help here, with that in mind, if there is no way to cancel the order the heads must be taken to a competent machine shop and fixed to run on your particular motor.

One last thing about buying complete heads and this is for general info, they make about 100,000 different springs out there and every cam has specs for the springs it needs.

That's why I never buy assembled or complete heads how the heil do you know the springs that come with the heads are going to work with your cam. Simpley stating the heads come with springs for solid roller cam or whatever is

If you must by them complete factor in another $200 minimum for springs and labour for setting them up