Why do you all jump on me? Do I deserve this, when I have bought parts from US companies years in and years out, supporting US economy, but this time inadvertently got a product which has its core cast produced in China? Which some of you hate so much.!... I might be better off by importing stuff directly from Singapor or buying from my own local supplier... woulden't you think?....

I have for many years gotten parts from Summit, Zip and Ecklers and have never asked for the true manufactorer's nationality.... is that what you do at all times?

If this is so important to you, read and part-take in this thread instead and stop BSing me:
http://forums.corral.net/forums/showthread.php?t=565955

rgds
A.

 

So now it's what we say ?

The article is from 2004 you posted. We all know they come from Australia, after they get them from China. ProComp has been out of business for 3 years now at least

This is right from the thread you posted, you are not helping yourself :

" I opened the big box and found two individual boxes inside, made of the kind of cheap cardboard that comes from China, like when you buy cheap Chinese crap from Harbor Freight or Autozone. This may or MAY NOT confirm suspicions that the heads are made in China (but marketed through Australia). There are no markings on the boxes whatsoever, no part numbers, nothing!! "


Good luck with the heads, bolt them right on if we don't hear from you again we know why ( last post from me )

*edit, Actually I was thinking of ProTopline heads made down under, I don't think you will ever find exactly where ProComp heads are made except for somewhere in China

 

I dont think it's necessarily a "buy American" stance that everyone has other than the fact the U.S. cast heads have been proven to be of better quality than the chinese casts. If the better quality heads came from Germany many would say to buy theirs. We're only trying to point out some common problems with the foreign produced heads (core shift, sloppy finish work, as cast runners/chambers, etc)

What's done is done since you already bought them so either take them to a good shop and have them cleaned up a little or ditch them and buy a better quality pair to start. either is fine, it's up to you.

 

People in the united states do not just buy american or expect people from other countries to just buy there products, toyota is the best selling car in the US, toyota camry best selling vehicle of all time in large part with US buyers making it the best seller, other brands of cars from Japan, South Korea, Germany have always done well here a lot of times these countries the biggest part of there sales comes from selling more cars here then there own countries. back when Triumph of england was in business up to 1980 vast majority of there cars were sold in the USA 50 percent of there little top down sports cars were all sold in one state California. Honda motorcycles showed up in the 1960s completely took the motorcycle market in the united states put harley to begging for tax relief from president Ronald Reagan Harley does well now in the big bike market but it still sells no where near what honda does overall. So this notion that the USA people back 45 yrs ago bought american only because of country is total baloney, back 45 yrs ago and today. In the 60s USA folks you kicked your honda over one time maybe twice it fired ran like top every where you went, I used to see those harley riders few that were left pulling there bikes around with ropes trying to get them to even run or taking turns trying to kick them over, Went to harley shop around 1977 the bikes had oil spots under them right on the showroom floor, very few percentage of americans gave a damn Harley was a USA company they went bought a honda, yamaha, kawasaki, suzuki, you know something that would run when they wanted it to they did not give a damn back then 45 yrs ago or today it was not MADE IN THE USA.

If anyone is being critical of you its because you bought a product I guess without knowing hardly anything about it then coming on the forum trying to find out if its any good after you already bought it.

 

Thank you for your support and friendly comments. I've been around for quite long time now and worked for Ford in the late 60's. I have experienced the brakedown of the UK car industry mainly because of poor workmanship. This subject was not my intention when I posted this thread, but now a lesson is learned. My main interest is soley technical related and I'll stick to that if not provoked. Right now I looking forward to receive the cylinder heads which bought with a well calculated risk. I can assure you I have the skill to inspect and rework these parts as soon as I get hands on. I am not sure if I will publish my findings on this forum and risking the exposure of the "besserwissers' wrought"...
best regards
Arne

 

Good luck on your heads. I really hope they work out well for you. No insults intended, Just trying to let you know what you may or may not be getting into. If you have machining skills and experience this will be a big plus for you. Would really hate to see anyone have a catastrophic engine failure. Creating power on a budget is difficult as a lot of us well know and usually isn't cheap. I used some chinese parts in my build also. Callies compstar rods, machined here in the states. Eagle lightweight crank, Cast in China. Machined By AMS in Louisiana. Both well respected companies with decent quality control. But when buying heads I went with AFR. Disassembled and checked everything before they went on the motor. Had one issue, the guides were only .001 clearance out of the box. Honed them and reassembled, good to go. Cylinder CC's dead on, Manley valves, Spring installed height and pressures almost perfect, Good seals, High quality springs, retainers, locks and guide plates. Glad I didn't install them right out of the box as I could have had major problems with the guide clearance. Called AFR on it and they said they got a run of valves that were on the high end of spec and guides on the small end of spec. Apologized but no credit or refund on machine cost. Just proves the point that even the most respected brands sometimes have their issues and it is always good to double or triple check everything.

 

Man, this forum is great. i had looked at those heads, as I'm planning a top end rebuild soon. Recommended to me were the Brodix IK180s. I was thinking, save a couple of bucks. Apparently,, you still get what you pay for. I'm going to get the Brodix heads.


http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku

 

AFR did not do you right par for the course these days, since I can't get the thread starter convinced the parts in the heads are going to fail. tell a small story,1963 my father bought a 62 lincoln off a lincoln dealer there were no recalls on 62 lincolns but on the 63 they had come out with an improved steering box, dealer calls my father they changed the sterring box to the 63 model no charge, this is the attitude dealers one time had for there customers. remember what I said on another post compairing the Japan attitude to the American attitude over the last 40 yrs.

 

The IK180 is a great head for the money for a 350. Good flow numbers. great I/E ratio and a quality product for a fair price.

 

I have heard that RHS and/or Patriot uses the same castings as procomp. Just different parts machining.
You might be fine with these heads on a flat tappet motor that does not see nitrous or abuse.
As far as power... I don't feel like I left 100 hp on the table with the big block heads. I made more power with them on a 468 with the factory intake than many people do with a 496 or 502 and a big single plane intake.

Note: The car had been my daily driver for a couple months before I went to the track.

With that said... They were assembled with junk (inferior) parts. Where ever they came from.

 

They seem to be OK from the specs.... I looked at the given flow and took them thru CamQuest6.... they're comparable with the other 180/190cc alu cylinder heads for street use in the market..... The cost is resonable and so is the expected performance. If you're not expecting miracles, I think they'll do fine for most of us! They also look good under the bonnet..... Look out for the exhaust ports, they are D-shaped and call for special headers...
Have good look here:
http://www.thirdgen.org/techboard/af...dix-ik180.html

good luck to you!
regards
Arne

 

Brodix IK180 from the brodix catalog uses the standard square flange
FPP- 1404 exhaust gasket, it does not require any special headers.

fpp-1404
www.summitracing.com

Or call brodix 479-394-1075

They will tell you that any standard 1 5/8 header will fit there head.
The IK200 also uses the same exhaust gasket.

 

Brodix IK180

Package Heads

match intake port to # FPP-1204
intake valves 2.02 X 4.920 o.a.l. # BR-6170DI
ehaust valve 1.60 X 4.920 o.a.l. # BR-6169DI
Valve springs 1.250 DIA. (Hydraulic flat tappit version of the head)
# CC-981. closed 100lb, open 300 lb, installed height 1.850
maximum lift .525
valve springs 1.430 DIA (hydraulic roller version head)
# CC-987 125 closed, 325 open, installed height 1.900
maximum lift .575
retainers 1.250, 7 degree # CC-742
retainers 1.430, 7 degree # CC-743
Valve locks 7 degree # PI PF-555
Rocker Studs 3/8 # BR-318S
Guide Plates 5/16 # CC-4808
valve seals 11/32 # US VS529V

Related Componet Facts
intake gaskets # FPP-1204 or cometic # C5416
Head gasket 350 chevy Fel pro # 1003 or cometic # C5399
Exhaust gasket # FPP-1404 or cometic #C5415
head bolts ARP # 134-3601 or manley # 42313
head studs ARP # 134-4001
Spark plug starting points, gasoline Champion RN12YC or autolite # 3924
for racing gas NGK R5671A-8

spring pockets may not be cut larger then 1.550
angle milling .0078 in PER cc
flat milling .0060 in PER cc

Theres more stuff I could list but can someone tell me the brands and
part numbers for the pro comp heads.

pro comp heads
premium stainless steel valves
premium valve springs
Premium valve seals
Premium studs
premium guide plates

Can someone give me the web site for the premium brand never heard of this brand, I don't like to be completely in the dark on something not even know anything about this new company. Sorry in advance i'm in a just can't control myself mood today.

 

 

I think that's Lucky Premium Performance Parts, location unknown

 

I thought that was a promise

 

Tjänare, Arne. Hoppas de funkar OK.

 

Takk for det, det har jeg stor tro på!....

Send me a PM.....
regards
Arne

 

Dude you have taken heat because you continue to ignore good advice

You have a pretty common concensous that those heads are of substand quality yet you continue to justify using them. Serious gearheads can have a very hard time understanding that logic

In all fairness, I looked at the Procomp heads for my recent 350 build, but decided quickly that it made more sense to spend a little more and buy quality - I bought the alum Edelbrocks instead.

If your budget is $600 or less, find a nice pair of GM heads and have them built with quality parts.

If you already bought the Procomp's, sell em. You might lose a $100 on them but you gain a whole lotta wisdom

Good luck either way,
Ed

 

According to my supplier Gr8HotRods:
All components are purchased from Precision Engine Parts, Las Vegas. The valves are 21-4N stainless. The springs, retainers, locks and rocker studs are the best steel available. Valve seals are Viton.

http://www.precisionengineparts.com/

best regards
Arne