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Setting the distributor on the #1 post.

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Old Mar 6, 2009 | 10:19 AM
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Default Setting the distributor on the #1 post.

I am preparing the 1st fire-up of my engine after an extensive rebuild job. I need to get the timing as close as possible before rotating the engine so I don't sacrifice a lot of camshaft's moly lube. Since I used a degree tape on the balancer, I decided I should set the#1 piston to 10 deg. BTDC and then set the distributor at the #1 post, but I'm not sure where to set the rotor tip in respect to the post conductor, is it supposed to fire as soon as it "touches" the conductor? .. or do I set it right in the middle? .. or does it fire as soon as it "leaves" the conductor? .. I can see there is a lot of overlap between the rotor tip and the post conductor.

I know that seems like a stupid question, but its my 1st time ever to deal with engine rebuilding, hence asking a lot of "such" questions!
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Old Mar 6, 2009 | 10:26 AM
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I just set it to the center, but leave the distributer hold down clamp loose enough that you can easily turn it if needed. Set your idle speed up a bit (3000 rpms or so) and once you fire the engine, set the timing for 36 degrees on your timing tape.(Lock down the distributer before the engine gets too hot.)

After the cam break in, just crank down your idle speed, and you're good to go.
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Old Mar 6, 2009 | 10:53 AM
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some info
http://www.lbfun.com/warehouse/tech_...stallation.pdf

Todd
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Old Mar 6, 2009 | 10:57 AM
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Assuming he has #1 set up before the intake valve opens and not 180 degrees out. If you have the valve cover off check for it that way, then set the distributor at #1.
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Old Mar 6, 2009 | 11:23 AM
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With #1 at TDC on the compression stroke, align the stake mark on the distributor with the mark on the intake manifold and she ought to fire. AIM has a diagram showing the stake marks.

Once she's running you can dial in your timing.

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Old Mar 6, 2009 | 12:27 PM
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Originally Posted by HamadUP
, is it supposed to fire as soon as it "touches" the conductor? .. or do I set it right in the middle? .. or does it fire as soon as it "leaves" the conductor? .. I can see there is a lot of overlap between the rotor tip and the post conductor.
None of the above. The plug fires the instant the points open.

If you want to be super accurate prior to firing the engine, put a test light and battery across the points and rotate the distributor back and forth. The moment the light goes out is when the plug will fire. The rotor will fire the plug closet to the post it's pointing at in the cap.
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Old Mar 6, 2009 | 02:37 PM
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Originally Posted by Mike Ward
None of the above. The plug fires the instant the points open.

If you want to be super accurate prior to firing the engine, put a test light and battery across the points and rotate the distributor back and forth. The moment the light goes out is when the plug will fire. The rotor will fire the plug closet to the post it's pointing at in the cap.
So you mean I shall point the rotor tip just after the #1 post?
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Old Mar 6, 2009 | 03:35 PM
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Originally Posted by HamadUP
So you mean I shall point the rotor tip just after the #1 post?
Yes,

If you dont have a test lite and cant follow Mikes suggestion, insert a thin sheet of paper between the points and slowly rotate the distributor until you can pull the paper out. This will give you exactly what lead you placed in the balancer....
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Old Mar 6, 2009 | 03:53 PM
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Thanks guys!

Wish me luck please, tomorrow will be the day of judgment for my engine rebuild
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Old Mar 6, 2009 | 10:10 PM
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Here is a trick that has worked for me. Align #1 at 8* BTDC and align the dist at the #1 terminal. Close up the dist cap and remove the #1 spark plug. Attached the plug wire and energize the ignition. Ground the plug, at the threads, and then slowly turn the dist until the plug fires. Lock down the dist and re-install #1 and you should be good to go for initial starting.

Couple of points...make sure no gas or fumes are present outside the carb and make sure you are well ventilated. Also, turning out the lights will make it easier to see the plug fire.
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Old Mar 9, 2009 | 10:54 PM
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Default Get an electronic module from Pertronix and ditch the points.

Points, shmoints.
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Old Mar 9, 2009 | 11:24 PM
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All modern inventions are not necessarily 'better' than the original design. Computer controlled spark systems are better....Pertronix..???
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Old Mar 10, 2009 | 11:43 AM
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Originally Posted by Jack Wood
Points, shmoints.

Irrelevant, he still has to learn how to locate #1 and set the correct lead to fire the engine......
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