I installed the 350 motor back into my 71 car last night and I have ran into a possible disaster, I am worried I may have to remove the motor.
I Installed a new ZOOM clutch. It is a basic upgrade from oem.
The old clutch had very little wear but I replaced since the motor was out.
The old set up had the adjusting nuts on the clutch rod about 2 to 3 inches from the end of the rod and about 1'" of free travel.
I have adjusted this new unit all the way to the end of the rod and I still have about 6 to inches of pedal free play before the pressure is felt.
I removed the boot and the fork is loose on the pivot ball.
When you mash the clutch a lot of the travel is being used to seat the fork dimple onto the ball, then the fork start to compress the fingers.
I have a fear that the pivot ball may be the issue. It is an OEM type.
I see that the allen head is accessable with the trans bolted to the bell hsg.
Is it possible to adjust or replace the pivot ball w/o removing the motor or trans?
It may also be something that someone that is more experienced with this couls fix easily. I am just freaking out that I may have to pull the motor back out.
Thanks
DAvid
I Installed a new ZOOM clutch. It is a basic upgrade from oem.
The old clutch had very little wear but I replaced since the motor was out.
The old set up had the adjusting nuts on the clutch rod about 2 to 3 inches from the end of the rod and about 1'" of free travel.
I have adjusted this new unit all the way to the end of the rod and I still have about 6 to inches of pedal free play before the pressure is felt.
I removed the boot and the fork is loose on the pivot ball.
When you mash the clutch a lot of the travel is being used to seat the fork dimple onto the ball, then the fork start to compress the fingers.
I have a fear that the pivot ball may be the issue. It is an OEM type.
I see that the allen head is accessable with the trans bolted to the bell hsg.
Is it possible to adjust or replace the pivot ball w/o removing the motor or trans?
It may also be something that someone that is more experienced with this couls fix easily. I am just freaking out that I may have to pull the motor back out.
Thanks
DAvid
I bet 1. you have a shorter throwout bearing and or 2. throwout bearing is installed incorrectly on fork.
Possibly even the clutch disc is in backwards
Possibly even the clutch disc is in backwards
Quote:
Possibly even the clutch disc is in backwards
The disc was isstalled right. It had a sticker on it showing which side toward PP.Originally Posted by AzMotorhead
I bet 1. you have a shorter throwout bearing and or 2. throwout bearing is installed incorrectly on fork.Possibly even the clutch disc is in backwards
As for the throw out bearing. They look close. I will have to call Zoom to get a measurement and check for sure.
The old one measued the same thickness as the new one.
The fork is fully in the slot on the T/O bearing and the clip is behind the ball.
Its a mystery at this point.
Thanks for the assistance
David
Quote:
Originally Posted by AzMotorhead
throwout bearing is installed incorrectly on fork.

http://www.clutch-shop.com/tips.htm#gmbrg
Or you need the adjustable or longer pivot ball
jackson
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All above good tips to check into ... in addition though is this:
flywheels get thinner with use, especially when resurfaced/ground ... as it thins, pp mount surface moves forward and pp fingers move forward and tob also moves forward. This is not some pie in the sky esoteric hypothesis; it's real.
one solution: correction shim(s) are placed between flywheel & crank flange ... the shim moves the fw rearward; all related clutchpak dimensions also move rearward.
Because of this ... ready-to-use fw shims are purposely mfd for this application by several companies including "Pioneer". FYI, "Perfection Clutch" is parent of Zoom; they manufacture flywheels too and may also offer fw shims.
flywheels get thinner with use, especially when resurfaced/ground ... as it thins, pp mount surface moves forward and pp fingers move forward and tob also moves forward. This is not some pie in the sky esoteric hypothesis; it's real.
one solution: correction shim(s) are placed between flywheel & crank flange ... the shim moves the fw rearward; all related clutchpak dimensions also move rearward.
Because of this ... ready-to-use fw shims are purposely mfd for this application by several companies including "Pioneer". FYI, "Perfection Clutch" is parent of Zoom; they manufacture flywheels too and may also offer fw shims.
Quote:
Possibly even the clutch disc is in backwards
Originally Posted by AzMotorhead
I bet 1. you have a shorter throwout bearing and or 2. throwout bearing is installed incorrectly on fork.Possibly even the clutch disc is in backwards
Pressure plates with high dome fingers take shorter throw out bearings and low dome fingers take long release bearings. They might have given you a short pressure plate with short bearing. If so , you will have to slide the trans back far enough to switch bearings.Quote:
Pressure plates with high dome fingers take shorter throw out bearings and low dome fingers take long release bearings. They might have given you a short pressure plate with short bearing. If so , you will have to slide the trans back far enough to switch bearings.
Thanks for all of the input.Originally Posted by bj1k
Pressure plates with high dome fingers take shorter throw out bearings and low dome fingers take long release bearings. They might have given you a short pressure plate with short bearing. If so , you will have to slide the trans back far enough to switch bearings.
I called ZOOM. The 3006S clutch comes with a 1 1/4" height T/O bearing.
That matches to my old bearing removed.
Still chasing the problem
Thanks
David
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ExploreJust a note: Think of how far the pedal travels in relation to the clutch fork. The pedal travels 6-9 in., depending on the pedal and the car? The clutch fork moves......as little as 3/8"? Not doing the math for you, but half of that travel at the pedal would equate to approx. 3/16", not alot of travel. It doesn't take a whole lot for the adjustment to be off, and would seem to be alot off.
Quote:
BigBlockTank, Thanks for the advice. I hope I found the culpret.Originally Posted by BigBlockTank
Just a note: Think of how far the pedal travels in relation to the clutch fork. The pedal travels 6-9 in., depending on the pedal and the car? The clutch fork moves......as little as 3/8"? Not doing the math for you, but half of that travel at the pedal would equate to approx. 3/16", not alot of travel. It doesn't take a whole lot for the adjustment to be off, and would seem to be alot off.
I was not aware that this spring helps keep the fork seated on the pivot ball.
A new one should be here tomorrow and I will try again. Also odered a new boot.
Man I hope this turne out to be a simple rookie oversight on the importance of this spring.
Thanks
David










