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brake lights stopped working

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Old Mar 11, 2009 | 09:01 AM
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Default brake lights stopped working

Just like that. I was taking the car to the shop to get the exhaust pipes done (finally!), and the wife, following behind me, informed me that my brake lights aren't lighting up.


So now, not only do my turn signals not work, but my brakes lights as WELL. She is rapidlyt becoming unsafe to drive, to say the least. It's funny, for every mechanical problem I fix, I get an electrical problem or two. Anyone have any suggestions? I KNOW it's not bad bulbs...I put new bulbs in when I got the car, a little over a year ago.

Any help on where to start, here?
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Old Mar 11, 2009 | 09:18 AM
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Originally Posted by KevinK
Just like that. I was taking the car to the shop to get the exhaust pipes done (finally!), and the wife, following behind me, informed me that my brake lights aren't lighting up.


So now, not only do my turn signals not work, but my brakes lights as WELL. She is rapidlyt becoming unsafe to drive, to say the least. It's funny, for every mechanical problem I fix, I get an electrical problem or two. Anyone have any suggestions? I KNOW it's not bad bulbs...I put new bulbs in when I got the car, a little over a year ago.

Any help on where to start, here?
Always check fuses first, but a likely culprit is the turn signal switch.
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Old Mar 11, 2009 | 10:49 AM
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Fuse.

Could be the stop light switch, but the usual suspect is the fuse.

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Old Mar 11, 2009 | 04:38 PM
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Weather here sucks, so I havn't had a chance yet, but lets say it IS the fuse, and it is blown...


What would have caused it? The fact that they are glass fuses, and just old?


The fuse blows on my turn signals all the time. I KNOW, however, that they are not on the same fuse. The turn signals and the back up lights are on the same fuse, and I'm fairly certain fixing that is just a matter of finding where the short is.

How would the turn signal switch have anything to do with the brake lights?
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Old Mar 11, 2009 | 05:16 PM
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Originally Posted by KevinK
How would the turn signal switch have anything to do with the brake lights?
They are inter-connected so that your flasher will still flash when you are applying the brakes. I had to replace the stoplight switch in my '68 last summer. There is a large, curved connector under the dash above the column, with several wires running through it. (Sorry I don't have specifics, I'm at work.) Once you know which color wire goes where (I have a diagram somewhere--maybe in the service manual?) you can jumper a hot wire off the fuse block and check your lights & turn signal function, & use a multi-tester to find your problem.

Take your time, make some notes about which wires should be hot relative to the position the switches are in, and test everything. I almost tore out the whole harness because my right brakelight would not light when I jumpered it at the connector...:o the turn signal switch was on...
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Old Mar 11, 2009 | 05:30 PM
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You said you were putting exhaust pipes on. I had a leak in my exhause pipe that melted the wires to the turn/stop. Perhaps this is the problem?
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Old Mar 11, 2009 | 05:58 PM
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Originally Posted by ripforrey
You said you were putting exhaust pipes on. I had a leak in my exhause pipe that melted the wires to the turn/stop. Perhaps this is the problem?
Nah, when I got the car, it had pipes, and the brake lights worked fine. I upgraded the suspension, and had to cut out the old pipes. Brake lights still worked (far as I know). It was on the way to the shop that my wife realized my brake lights were not lighting up.
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Old Mar 11, 2009 | 05:59 PM
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Originally Posted by Rally68
They are inter-connected so that your flasher will still flash when you are applying the brakes. I had to replace the stoplight switch in my '68 last summer. There is a large, curved connector under the dash above the column, with several wires running through it. (Sorry I don't have specifics, I'm at work.) Once you know which color wire goes where (I have a diagram somewhere--maybe in the service manual?) you can jumper a hot wire off the fuse block and check your lights & turn signal function, & use a multi-tester to find your problem.

Take your time, make some notes about which wires should be hot relative to the position the switches are in, and test everything. I almost tore out the whole harness because my right brakelight would not light when I jumpered it at the connector...:o the turn signal switch was on...
Thanks.


Just to clarify, does this mean I have to remove the dash? That terrifies me...
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Old Mar 11, 2009 | 08:08 PM
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You need to use a volt-ohm meter to find where the ground connection is getting 'lost' on the way to the lights. Start at the lights and work backwards. Don't dig in the dash area until you need to.
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Old Mar 11, 2009 | 08:20 PM
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Originally Posted by KevinK
How would the turn signal switch have anything to do with the brake lights?
Very easily. You obviously have never seen the inside of that turn signal switch. Those little wires are mighty close together, and they transfer the power to the individual rear stop lamps. Left and Right. Also if a previous owner has installed a repro TS switch, Its probably about 99% that is the problem.
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Old Mar 11, 2009 | 09:59 PM
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I assume you have a wiring diagram andIf your fuses are good:
First clean the rear lite ground at the frame above the driver side muffler.
There is a connector for the rear wiring just above the bottom of the dash and above the inside kick panel. You can find it by just removing the kick. Unplug and test the complete rear harness there with the bulbs out, for shorts. An ohm meter is good for this. Under the sill plate is a common place for frayed wires over the years.


In the pic below is the harmonica connector mounted on the side of the lower column. Big feet can cause problems here sometimes. All the turn signals, brake lites and horn go thru this connector. Another place to test and clean the contacts. It is common that the connector gets oxidized and lites stop working, but usually does not cause a short here. BTW, if your tests conclude it is the signal switch, plug the new one in here first to test temporarily, before ripping the column apart.



Be aware that the tail sockets can and do go bad and can cause shorts, but are available at any good parts store.

Last edited by noonie; Mar 12, 2009 at 10:17 AM. Reason: Forgot the pic
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Old Mar 12, 2009 | 08:32 AM
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Originally Posted by KevinK
Thanks.


Just to clarify, does this mean I have to remove the dash? That terrifies me...
Nope! Mine was taped to the column support, just above where your toes are when your feet are on the pedals. With the tape removed, I could sit on the ground and lean in the open door to work on it.
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Old Mar 12, 2009 | 10:40 AM
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Thank you guys very much for the help.


Won't get out of work in time today, but I might have some daylight tomorow to try and see whats what with it, with the above advice.


I'll let you guys know if all goes well....
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Old Mar 15, 2009 | 03:11 PM
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Well, the fuse was shot. So, I replaced that, and voila, the tail lights and brake lights work again.


Later on, though, I'm getting back in there to see if I can find that harmonica plug thing, pull the plugs, clean them up, etc.


Right now?



I need to let my back stop hurting after finagling with a flashlight and trying to get the fuse out. I actually find it's easier to just break them, then get them out, lol.


Honestly. Who decided that THAT was a good place for the fuse box, and where do they live? I must pay this person a visit some day. My back is killing me, and now I need new batteries for the flashlight.


Is nothing simple?
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