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7 out of 8 go fine, but this one got the best of me. Boy, did I mess it up.
Though about grinding the head off but don't know if that would make it easier or not to get the stub out.
Any suggestions? I'm just a carpenter and it ain't made out of wood.
From: Lincoln NE Riding and Driving Corvettes since 1967.
A torch would be my first choice, but you are fairly close to the gas tank so that might not be the best option. Try taking a ball peen hammer and hammer on the head of the bolt. not the six sides, but directly on the flat of the bolt head. Not big killer swings, just constant direct tap tap tap. what you are trying to do is use that force to break the rust between the threads of the bolt and yoke. It works even better when you can be tapping on the bolt while trying to turn a wrench on the bolt. I also have used the hammer a metric socket on the bolt. Works sometimes.
BTW - MAKE SURE YOU ARE USING 6 POINT, and if possible an impact socket, they have much less chance of slipping and rounding off the corners.
I had a similar thing happen with my differential bolts. if you have access to a welder I welded a nut to the top of it, The heat seeps into the bolt and helps loosen it up but I would try the kit that was mentioned before first since Im not sure how well it would work on the longer bolt
P.S. if you can get you can get a long nut then you can hold pressure on it with a wrench while using the impact on it
Lesson to be learned from this experience... When there is a rusty bolt to be removed, always shoot it with PB Blaster and let it sit for a while, then repeat; AND use a 6-point socket [or end wrench] to break it free. (those 12-point sockets just don't get it when you have a rusty, frozen bolt...) The final alternative would be to use heat.
there is a product out there to freeze the bolt and shrinks it not sure of the name though I have used 134a from an a/c kit just turn can upside down to get liquid and try freezing it wont catch anything on fire
I did use some PB blaster, heat (maybe not enough) and always use 6 point sockets whenever possible. also tried impact gun, but had it too rounded over at that point.
I read about that stuff that freezes on here a couple of weeks ago.
I,m gonna get a set of them bolt extractors.
Anyway, I got the differential out and open (leaking) and been researching the forums on that subject. No sense just putting it back if it needs work.
Thanks everyone for the help.
ONe other thing to try in the meantime is to tap on a metric 6 point socket that is a bit smaller than the English size. I've had good luck doing this but first spray it with the freeze solution that also is quite effective.
Glad I found this tread. I have the same poblem but I have one on each side. The other 7 came right out but the last 2 won't budge. Guess I'll be visiting Lowes.
The PB Blaster has to soak for some time before it will dissolve long-term rust. Shoot it, wait a few hours; shoot it again, wait a few hours; shoot it and let it soak overnight. THEN try to break the bolt loose.
Stopped at Home depot and they had a 5 piece Irwin extractor set for $20.00.
Got home and had that bolt off in like 2 minutes.
Man are those things slick. I've seen them before but never really though they would work that good.
Thanks everyone for the help. I was like
Stopped at Home depot and they had a 5 piece Irwin extractor set for $20.00.
Got home and had that bolt off in like 2 minutes.
Man are those things slick. I've seen them before but never really though they would work that good.
Thanks everyone for the help. I was like
Glad they worked out. It is great when tools work like they are designed.
Originally Posted by Bubs
Glad I found this tread. I have the same poblem but I have one on each side. The other 7 came right out but the last 2 won't budge. Guess I'll be visiting Lowes.
hammer a 15 mm socket on the bolt after you soak it with PB laster..it's a tight fit will take some hammering to get it on.....15 mm will hold the bolt tight....nothing wrong with doing a Bubba once in a while...