Engine shuts down when key is released
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 921
Likes: 1
From: Albany WI
Engine shuts down when key is released
I am working on a '69 project. When I hit the starter, the engine fires up, but as soon as I release the key, it shuts down. I tested the hot wire from the coil to the distributor and it does not stay hot when the key is released. I'm sure I have found my problem, but I need some advice on the solution. I'm thinking the problem is either in the ignition switch or the ignition cylinder. The standard steering column was replaced with a T/T one from a '74. The ignition switch was switched over too...at least I think it is. I had them off and on several times last fall, but if I remember correctly, the T/T switch was the only one that would fit on the T/T column. So, any ideas on what could be causing the shutdown?
Thanks in advance for your help.
Thanks in advance for your help.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 8,812
Likes: 2,029
From: eastern NC
The switch is mounted to top of the column with two hex head screws. The holes in the switch are slotted to allow minor adjustments. Loosen the two screws and move the switch slightly towards the steering wheel.
You may have to make minor adjustments to get it in the correct position.
You could try hooking up your voltmeter so it can be viewed in the cabin and move the switch until you see voltage on the meter.
Good luck... GUSTO
You may have to make minor adjustments to get it in the correct position.
You could try hooking up your voltmeter so it can be viewed in the cabin and move the switch until you see voltage on the meter.
Good luck... GUSTO
Team Owner
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 37,637
Likes: 3,118
From: Crossville TN
With the key in your ignition and switched to 'run' position (engine not started), measure the voltage between the + terminal of the coil and chassis ground. If you get 6 volts or more, it should stay running. If not, the "resistance" line feed wire is not getting power. It could be the ignition switch or it could be that the wire from the 'run' terminal on the ignition switch...or something else in that line...has a problem.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 921
Likes: 1
From: Albany WI
Still a no go. I adjusted the switch back and forth and still do not get any volts at the coil. My voltmeter is bad, so I am just using a test light. I will be picking up a new voltmeter tonigth or tomorrow. Anyway, now for the stupid question, so that I can rule out any other possiblilities. The only gauge that I currently have connected is the oil pressure gauge. Also, the door ajar switches are not connected. Just wondering if there is any ground related to these two areas that can be causing the problem. I'm just trying to check things out before I assemble the dash, etc. Thanks again for your help.
Pro
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 517
Likes: 7
From: Peoria IL
If you still have the point distributor, it sounds to me like your ballast resistor is toast- or has a bad connection.
While your ignition switch is in the "START" position the ballast resistor is bypassed, but in "RUN" the power to your ignition coil first goes through the resistor.
Check it out and make sure you have voltage- at least 9V- to your ignition coil's (+) terminal when the ignition switch is ON even if the engine is not running. If not, check for +12.7 V on one side of the resistor. If the 12.7V is on one side of the resistor and less than 9V is on the other side, the resistor is bad.
While your ignition switch is in the "START" position the ballast resistor is bypassed, but in "RUN" the power to your ignition coil first goes through the resistor.
Check it out and make sure you have voltage- at least 9V- to your ignition coil's (+) terminal when the ignition switch is ON even if the engine is not running. If not, check for +12.7 V on one side of the resistor. If the 12.7V is on one side of the resistor and less than 9V is on the other side, the resistor is bad.
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Racer
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 487
Likes: 0
From: Jacksonville FL
Do you have both wires going to the positive terminal on the coil? There are two wires that connect to the positive side of the coil. One is the start wire from the starter and the other is the run wire. The start wire supplies full current to the points to aid in starting. The run wire supplies less current to prolong the life of your points.
If you only had the start wire attached it would behave exactly like you are describing.
If you only had the start wire attached it would behave exactly like you are describing.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 8,897
Likes: 1,357
From: Santa Ana CA
This is an easy fix. Either your ballast resistor has "opened" (does not pass current), or a wire leading to/from the ballast resistor is disconnected.
When you turn the key, the engine needs all the fire power it can get. But this would burn out the points in short order.
When you turn the key, voltage goes directly to the points so the engine runs. When you release the key, the voltage goes to the points through the ballast resistor, or not, as in your case.
This is also easy to check, just by-pass the ballast resistor with a piece of wire (or put the two wires on either side of the ballast resistor together) and see if the engine stays running when you release the key. If it does, the resistor is shot. If not, it is probably that a wire off or has a bad connection at a crimp. Just don't run it this way for an extended period of time as it is hard on the points.
When you turn the key, the engine needs all the fire power it can get. But this would burn out the points in short order.
When you turn the key, voltage goes directly to the points so the engine runs. When you release the key, the voltage goes to the points through the ballast resistor, or not, as in your case.
This is also easy to check, just by-pass the ballast resistor with a piece of wire (or put the two wires on either side of the ballast resistor together) and see if the engine stays running when you release the key. If it does, the resistor is shot. If not, it is probably that a wire off or has a bad connection at a crimp. Just don't run it this way for an extended period of time as it is hard on the points.
Last edited by toddalin; May 5, 2009 at 04:32 PM.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 921
Likes: 1
From: Albany WI
Update
Thanks to all of your help, I'm getting this thing narrowed down somewhat. I looked high and low for a ballast. It should be on the firewall, shouldn't it? Could it have been replaced with a resistor wire? Also, the two wires on the "+" post of the coil go into the wire harness. I purchased a voltmeter last night, but for whatever reason (probably operator error), I could not get a consistant reading at the coil.
So, I placed a jumper wire from the battery post on the alternator to the "+" post of the coil. It will run all day with the jumper on. It will not shutdown by the switch with the jumper wire on. I suppose that is normal with a hot wire going to the coil??
Any ideas on where I go from here? Thanks again for your help. I'm gettin close!!
So, I placed a jumper wire from the battery post on the alternator to the "+" post of the coil. It will run all day with the jumper on. It will not shutdown by the switch with the jumper wire on. I suppose that is normal with a hot wire going to the coil??
Any ideas on where I go from here? Thanks again for your help. I'm gettin close!!
Pro
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 517
Likes: 7
From: Peoria IL
Yep, that's normal. You have bypassed the ignition switch with that jumper wire.
If you ground your meter on the engine somewhere, you can't get a good signal?
I'm not sure where the resistor is located on your vette, but someone on here surely does- so would almost any manual. Mine has HEI so I'm not much help.
If you ground your meter on the engine somewhere, you can't get a good signal?
I'm not sure where the resistor is located on your vette, but someone on here surely does- so would almost any manual. Mine has HEI so I'm not much help.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 921
Likes: 1
From: Albany WI
Yep, that's normal. You have bypassed the ignition switch with that jumper wire.
If you ground your meter on the engine somewhere, you can't get a good signal?
I'm not sure where the resistor is located on your vette, but someone on here surely does- so would almost any manual. Mine has HEI so I'm not much help.
If you ground your meter on the engine somewhere, you can't get a good signal?
I'm not sure where the resistor is located on your vette, but someone on here surely does- so would almost any manual. Mine has HEI so I'm not much help.
Pro
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 517
Likes: 7
From: Peoria IL
That's your call. It would be a departure from originality, but it's an improvement. You'll need to find that ballast resistor anyway, because you'll need to tap into the ignition switch feed to the resistor. You'll be eliminating the external coil, ballast resistor, and even the bypass wire between the starter and the coil.
It's a good system, but you will have to do a little wiring to make it work. There might also be complications with your tach, depending on whether it's mechanical drive or electrical, and if it's electrical, if it will work by simply connecting it to the "Tach" contact on the HEI distributor. Aftermarket mechanical drive HEI distributors are available, but they're more expensive than a plain vanilla HEI dizzy.
It's a good system, but you will have to do a little wiring to make it work. There might also be complications with your tach, depending on whether it's mechanical drive or electrical, and if it's electrical, if it will work by simply connecting it to the "Tach" contact on the HEI distributor. Aftermarket mechanical drive HEI distributors are available, but they're more expensive than a plain vanilla HEI dizzy.
Team Owner
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 37,637
Likes: 3,118
From: Crossville TN
There is no "balast resistor" on your C3...it has a resistance wire running from the bulkhead connector [thru the wiring harness] and up to the + terminal on your coil. If you are not getting voltage at that terminal in the "run" mode, the resistance wire, or the fuse-link in that line, have gone bad. All you need to do is find the ends of that wire and check it for continuity. If bad, find the bad section and repair it.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 921
Likes: 1
From: Albany WI
I hate electrical issues
I decided to convert to HEI and have ordered the distributor, plug wires and power wire. In the meantime, I have been starting the car a few times a week by placing a jumper between the alternator and the "+" terminal of the coil. Unlike all of the other times, when I pulled the jumper wire tonight, the car contiuned to run. Under normal circumstances this would be good, but I hate it when things work some times and other times they don't. The only thing I have done is attach and unattach the jumper, unless I unknowingly moved a shorted wire or something. I wouldn't think a resistance wire could work sometimes and other times not work. If it's just a problem that will go away when I convert over to HEI, I can live with that, but I don't want it following over to the new system. 
Safety Car
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 3,729
Likes: 267
From: Austin Texas
Corvette of the Year Winner 2017
2016 C3 of Year Finalist
Do your research when converting to HEI,
you will no longer use the resistance wire= Ballast !
thats the way to go with HEI , you can get some good deals on new dist.
you will no longer use the resistance wire= Ballast !
thats the way to go with HEI , you can get some good deals on new dist.