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Had to pull the dist. for some issues with the ign. Got it fired, now my timing mark is sitting about 11:00 instead of 2:00 on the balancer and will not match with the degree marker. Question is: Am I off by one tooth? If so should I pick up and spin the dist. one tooth CCW or One tooth CW?
Had to pull the dist. for some issues with the ign. Got it fired, now my timing mark is sitting about 11:00 instead of 2:00 on the balancer and will not match with the degree marker. Question is: Am I off by one tooth? If so should I pick up and spin the dist. one tooth CCW or One tooth CW?
Thanks Guys.
you should be able to rotate the dizzy to time the mill....if there is interference with the vac. can etc..then yes you are off
Its a msd dist, no vac, and it will rotate freely, but it will not get the balancer mark anywhere near the timing marker
good choice on the dizzy.....check the balancer to see if the keyway is lined up with the mark on the balancer.....usually they are the same however on some models they are offset.....
good choice on the dizzy.....check the balancer to see if the keyway is lined up with the mark on the balancer.....usually they are the same however on some models they are offset.....
Keyway is lined up. It was ok b4 I pulled the dist. now it's way off. thats why I thought I was one tooth off.
Keyway is lined up. It was ok b4 I pulled the dist. now it's way off. thats why I thought I was one tooth off.
Set to TDS on no. 1
you should still be able to time the mill......it makes no difference where the dizzy is in position but if you are trying to stay where you were as far as position then re do the dizzy....i cant understand why you cant time the mill??...are you on #1?? with the light.....
if the tack drive cable is lined up, pull the wires off the cap and change timing that way. if the timing mark is at 11:00 you're too advanced in distributor position. move the wires clockwise one terminal.
if the tack drive cable is lined up, pull the wires off the cap and change timing that way. if the timing mark is at 11:00 you're too advanced in distributor position. move the wires clockwise one terminal.
Thats what I was going to do, but the wires are cut to length, and too short to rotate them one postion cw. Thats why I thought I could rotate the rotor one gear tooth.
BTW the dist base is set were it was b4 to line up the tac cable
Thats what I was going to do, but the wires are cut to length, and too short to rotate them one postion cw. Thats why I thought I could rotate the rotor one gear tooth.
BTW the dist base is set were it was b4 to line up the tac cable
you will either have to move a tooth or swap the wires...your new dizzy is "clocked" differently than the old one...good luck
Relocate the distributor. If you shift the plug wires to 'odd' positions, some mechanic or future owner will go nuts 'chasing his tail'. You will have to use a long shanked screwdriver to stick down the dizzy hole and position the oil pump drive shaft [which engages with the dizzy] so that it will drop in properly where you want it. Crank or rotate the engine so that the timing mark is near TDC [after the intake valve for #1 has closed, so that engine is on compression stroke], then set the dist. rotor just before where it will contact the #1 plug wire feed. Look to see where the drive pin is located on the bottom of the shaft and use the screwdriver to position the oil pump shaft accordingly. Now drop in the dizzy, if it mates up properly. If it doesn't, just pick up the dizzy to disengage the drive gear, rotate it a touch, then try again. Once it has fully engaged, re-check to see if the rotor contact is still lined up with the #1 wire outlet position. To fine tune, you can adjust the dizzy so that points are just 'opened' at #1 (if you have points), or you can try to fire it and keep tweaking the dizzy a bit till it starts.