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My car is running like crap, so I wanted to start on the full tune-up procedure. I was under the impression that I was running points, so I went to take the points out last night and saw this:
Looks like a PO has swapped out the points for an electronic unit, yes?
So, no points, but I want to change that vacuum can as I suspect that might be the problem. The service manual I have is for '69 and covers Chevelle, Nova, Caprice and Corvette, in other words, it had almost nothing specific to Corvette, and it is the wrong year, so it wasn't much help. So my question is, how does this thing come apart to change the can? I had the mechanical advance weights off last night, but couldn't figure out how to get any of the rest of the stuff off. If I even need to change that electronic unit, how does it come out? Any help is appreciated.
This pic shows the two slot-head screws that hold the vacuum can down. That looks like a Mallory electronic unit with which I am not familiar but I would imagine it uses the points screw-down holes.
To change it out [as intended], you have to disassemble the distributor. That requires you to drive the roll-pin out of the drive gear at the bottom of the shaft so that you can remove the shaft from the housing. Then, you need to 'walk' the little snapring out of the groove at the top of the [upper] housing bushing. It becomes easy at that point. By the way, I would recommend that you replace the signal wire in the dizzy while you are at it. That brass retainer clamped on the wire can cut through the insulation and short out the signal if it contacts any metal. At least, check it for shorts with an ohmmeter before you decide to re-use it.
I have the same electronic unit on my car. It is a Unilite Mallory Infrared Unit. It has been running flawlessly for decades. If you suspect you have a bad vacuum unit test it. Get a timing light hook the vacuum unit to a constant vacuum port and see if the timing advances. If the can is bad you can change it without removing the distributor or Unilite. Push the breaker plate and loosen the vacuum can hold down screw. You will be able to disengage the vacuum can rod from the breaker plate.
If you suspect you have a bad vacuum unit test it. Get a timing light hook the vacuum unit to a constant vacuum port and see if the timing advances. If the can is bad you can change it without removing the distributor or Unilite. Push the breaker plate and loosen the vacuum can hold down screw. You will be able to disengage the vacuum can rod from the breaker plate.
I do get advance, but it doesn't engage until nearly 20 in Hg. I get advance at idle from the manifold port (tested at 21 in Hg) but I don't get any from the carb port where I think the connection should go. I tried to find out what the specs are on the can, but no luck, so I bought a new can at the auto parts store and tested it. It starts to engage below 10 in Hg when it is in my hand, but I am not fighting a return spring then, so I am still not sure that is the problem. How is the vacuum can rod held into the breaker plate, is it just friction?
The 2 screws hold the can down and the rod just sits freely in the hole on the breaker plate. Use a magnetic screwdriver when removing the screws to avoid dropping them.
To change it out [as intended], you have to disassemble the distributor. That requires you to drive the roll-pin out of the drive gear at the bottom of the shaft so that you can remove the shaft from the housing.
That is what I was afraid of. I will try to swap it out without taking the distrib off, but based on what I see, I am not optimistic. I had noticed the roll pin when looking around last night, and figured that was holding something in.
By the way, I would recommend that you replace the signal wire in the dizzy while you are at it. That brass retainer clamped on the wire can cut through the insulation and short out the signal if it contacts any metal. At least, check it for shorts with an ohmmeter before you decide to re-use it.
Admittedly, I seem to be the "reading comprehension challenged" this week, and even though I usually understand your stuff right away, I didn't get this. I always thought that "dizzy" was like a slang term for "distributor", but the way you write that, it sounds like it is a part inside? I poked around on Google for a while, but couldn't figure this one out. Sorry.
I have to disagree with 7T1vette on this one. That can comes out without disassembling the distributor. You just have to wiggle the advance plate a bit.
I agree and have done it multiple times, you do not have to remove the distributor. Remove the exposed screw. Push the breaker plate with a screw drive and hold it to expose the second screw and remove it. You can then wiggle the advance unit out of the distributor.
You can remove/replace the vacuum can without disassembling the dizzy (distributor). But, I thought I would provide the 'method' for unit disassembly in case the poster wanted to check out the condition of it while he had it out. [The 'spiral' snapring can be a real b!+ch if you don't know it's there.]