I'm running 4:11 gears and no OD. I'm running the recomended amount of water wetter and water with just enough anti-freeze to prevent rust. I'm trying to locate a stock CCW water pump (short) to install and try.

Any one know what year car may have used a short CCW water pump that I may get at the local parts house to try?

If I can't find a stock water pump do yawl think restrictors will work to try and slow the flow down?

Neal

 

Did you ever make any progress on this? I had the same thing happen last night to me going to a cruise 35 miles away. I don't have the air dam, so I think ordering that will fix it, I hope. Runs fine through town, just not on the interstate...

 

[QUOTE=chevymans

If I can't find a stock water pump do yawl think restrictors will work to try and slow the flow down?

Neal [/QUOTE]

I guess its worth a try, but, Stewart Water Pump Co. and others...claim its an old wives tale that slowing down the water will aid in heat removal. Give us an update , since its been awhile now ; some of us are curious as to what the remedy was .

 

Working on the list of things I need to do to improve the cooling systen, I'm in the middle of moving the oil cooler to the rear of the car and adding two 12" fans to it right now. Getting the parts is a little slow so it will be a little longer before I have an update. Haven't been able to locate a stock flow water pump in CCW as of right now but I'm still looking.

Neal

 

I had a cooling problem until I purchased a BeCool rad and dual spals. It runs perfectly now.

 

I do not think the pusher fans in frount are helping at all just blocks rad. You have done every thing to cool it may be it is the eng. Can you richin the mix. a little bit like 12/1 at speed. But I am thinking head gasket or head I have been Honda tech. for 28 yrs. (hay it is a living) We have a mach. in our shop to measur HC fo Pa. IM test on older cars I have found that if you put the sniffer near the rad. cap not in it and buzz eng. if bad head gasket is present mach, will show incresed HC I know you are not getting oil i water, but combustion gases can be getting in to cooling sys. off the wall yea but you have done so much with no help also can you find shop to test coolent for bad head gasket? I would also ru 60/40 antifeeez and dist. water. I do not care what other people tell me I think it works best I know at 60 mph eng is not making a lot of HP but at speed and low gears a lot of air&fuel is going into eng and it is going to make heat Any ? e mail me at joec44@verizon.net Good luck bro.!!

 

I hope you figure this out. My 75 with a BBC is basicly doing the same thing. I have a CSR Electric pump now, but I'm considering going back to the stock style to see if it helps control the water temp.

 

Mine does fine with a BeCool and a single 16" black magic fan. I had lots of problems before. Now I can idle through Drive-through fast food in the Florida summer.

 

I ran a Tru-Kul for a while, it did the same thing. I purchased a Dewit direct fit with dual Spals, there is no question that the Dewit radiator will cool the engine if everything else is right. Right now I'm looking for the other issues that are causing this thing to run warmer than I would like.

Neal

 

I know everyone says that the pusher fans wont help but they seem to help a little while they were in there. No big difference but the temp seemed to stay down longer with the two pushers in there.

I talked to the Machine shop that put the engine together and he asked me to locate the exact head gasket and bring him one to look at. He indicated that he has seen issues with certain ones but it is usually that they get hot in town and cool down on the hwy.

I have a wide-band LM1 for running the carb, I've tried lean and rich neither have changed the temp that the engine runs.
I've seen test kits that can be purchased on line that will test for combustion gases in the radiator. Do you think one of those will work? Or I can bring it to the local radiator shop and have them check it. Thanks for the suggestions. I'll add them to my list of things to check.


Neal

 

I'll keep this thread updated with my progress.

There was someone that was having the same issue and had started another thread (I think it was here) and had brought up a good point. He was concerned that he didn't have enough air flow across the engine as when he was running the stock fan configuration. He changed his engine driven fan out for an electric fan and was having this issue.

I was looking at this and wondering if I could run some duct from the front of the car to the engine bay and let air blow across the engine. This way I wouldn't need to add more fans.

I'll add this to my list and try and find this thread and see if he was able to fix his issue.

Neal

 

Well it will break 100 here today and I plan on taking a mountain cruise. One stretch I will gain nearly 5000 feet of elevation and I don't envision any heat problems. I'm planning a 200 mile loop around Lake Tahoe.

My tall filler neck is the only way that you can do a total fill on the cooling system. My overdriven race pump keeps the flow up even when I'm only doing 2000 rpm. If I see my temp go over 200 I can manually switch on my second spall puller fan.

I also think that having an 8 quart oil pan helps because with enough volume the oil doesn't rapidly spike with higher oil temps when the motor is under max load.

 

From jtc44 I think that a shop is best to test comp. gas in coolent I think that if it is a small leak it may be worce at speed sorry but until you prove it does not exist it is my thinking. At idle with your cooling sys. it can hide some probs. head gasket can be bad from fact. trust me My friend at work had to put 2 new heads on a 08 honfa piolt 3.5L fact. sent 3.2L gaskets packeged wroung. Eng ran great but made noise becous of piston hitting smaller gasket. ANYTHING CAN AND WILL HAPPEN!! but what do I know

 

Thanks for the input, I'll go by the shop and see if these guys can test the coolant for combustion gases.

Neal

 

Update;

I'm just about to finish the oil cooler and fan install, should be able to take a drive some time this week. I'll report back after the drive.

I also routed the radiator bypass hose through two heater cores mounted up front at the bumper vents.

I had tried to remove the bypass hose but when I did the temps would fluctuate drastically ( I think the pump may have been cavitating) so I had to put it back.

Neal

 

I hope it works for you.
I installed the lower air diverter as mine was missing and it seemed to fix my highway cooling issue. I also put the foam seals back on the sides of the radiator, too. Surprising how little things can make a big difference.

 

Neal
where is the A/F ratio now? 15.5 at cruise will burn 11% less fuel than 14:1(way too rich at cruise)
~80% of fuel burned makes heat.

MPG is a great indication of heat generation. does it get mpg of similar set-ups?

For some reason i want to cruise at the lower speed, what like 40mph? where it runs at 180-190. it does right? And then select a lower gear to get it to ~2900. Does it go up to 230? or stay at 190? this would provide a clue.

Also, there is a way to measure the airflow thru the rad at speed. I think, even at this point, you might like to know how much air flows at various speeds? Not that this would prove anything instantly; it would show the effect of your changes.

 

I've spent some time while I had it parked to make sure all the seals are in place. I did have some holes to plug, a few small ones here and ther but every little bit should help.

Neal

 

Matt,

I've moved the AF around at cruise just to see the effects on the temps, I've not been able to make any gains with the temps by changing the AF. Haven't driven it enough to check fuel milage so I'm in the dark there.

Haven't tried to down shift to cruise at a lower speed with cruise RPM. I'll give that a try when I get it back on the road.

Would like to know how to measure air flow through the radiator at speeds without spending a truck load of money.

Neal

 

I'm not aware of any inexpensive way to measure radiator airflow. Even when the sensors are relatively cheap a data acquisition setup is generally needed. For instance I've used a grid of MAF sensors (straight out of a Ford truck) which need power in addition to voltage output measurement. Alternately a grid of pitot tubes can be used, requiring a massively expensive array of pressure sensors and data acq system. There are mass airflow "propellers" which are stupidly expensive also. Another way to get mass airflow through the radiator is to get an accurate heat rejection on the water side (which would require a water flow meter, which I think are also $$ and finicky) plus thermocouples in the airflow and back out the mass airflow from the energy balance (neglecting radiated heat from the (improperly named) radiator.)

There may be some cheap tell-tale way of getting an idea of relative airflow but I think you'd have a very hard time getting anything consistent from that.


As long as I'm writing I should mention about the "too fast water" myth: I've tested radiators in wind tunnels, on calorimeter rigs, on race tracks, and in straight-line testing and water is never too fast through the radiator (within reason that you're not getting massive cavitation in the block.) (Two-pass radiators are worse too, same reason, the water stays in the rad too long.) Faster water flow equalizes the temperature across the radiator which means it is working at maximum efficiency across the whole surface area, rather than the temperature being particularly low on the "cold" side and hence being closer to ambient and less effective. Faster water also reduces hot spots in the block unless there are areas of bad flow/cavitation. It's already been mentioned that your radiator seems to be saturated which means this is either an air-side problem or too much heat coming from the engine (which could be solved by more air but if its an excessive amount of engine-generated heat that may be unrealistic.)

You haven't over-pressured the radiator and expanded the tubes have you? (Cutting off the airflow.) Put a light on one side of the rad and look through the other side to make sure none of the fins look crushed or the tubes ballooned. May be tricky to do in the car. This is a common problem in NASCAR where special high-pressure systems are used with lightweight aluminum radiators.

Good luck finding a solution!