Power Recommendations Needed….
The only pressed studs I see pulling out are in factory heads that have been hot tanked; this is pretty common and once a head has been in the tank, it needs screw-in studs. Not to say that someone can't install a crazy cam and turn an engine to 6700 RPM and pull studs...but they'd be breaking the screw in ones

I may sound like an infomercial for the Vortecs, but I'm not either
I agree the Brodix's are a great head at a great price - and I agree with you to some extent as I noted that putting significant $ into the Vortecs may not be the best investment. But at $800/set with a roller-capable spring from SDPC or about the same if you do it yourself at home with the CompCams beehives, it's still a great price on a good head.'nuff said - as noted, lots of good ways to skin the same cat I just wanted to offer perspective on the pressed stud concern from my experince.

Why would a screw in stud break at a very low 6700 rpm anything that turns that low has no valve spring pressure. So far I have never had a screw in stud break, must be some chinese quality stuff out there.
Last edited by Little Mouse; Jun 20, 2009 at 05:57 PM.
Why would a screw in stud break at a very low 6700 rpm anything that turns that low has no valve spring pressure. So far I have never had a screw in stud break, must be some chinese quality stuff out there.
Different experiences, all good. 'nuff said
Different experiences, all good. 'nuff said

Of course no one in this day and age would even try to run high rpm solid cams of any form with pressed in studs.
This is why the scoggin dickey upgraded heads have the screw in studs there upgrading is very expensive. this is why the moddest 180 runner bowtie vortec head comes with screw in studs, no one is going to use a 180 runner for even a 350 if there intention is to keep it high in revs all the time on a race track. the 180 bowtie vortec has the screw in studs for the person that wants a hydraulic roller without it pulling studs.
A pressed in stud if the valve spring prsessure is to high at full lift
is going to work its way out its just a matter of a little time low rpm or higher revs its going to pull out.
It makes no difference if its the 1950s/ 1960s pressed in studs or
1990s pressed in studs they will only take so much and there pulled.
a simple screw in stud stops all that nonsense.
The rpms of the 30/30 cam in the 327/365 cam they were reved past 7000 rpm all the time with pressed in studs for many a mile, but the valve spring pressure on there springs both open and closed was no where near what they recomend for even a hydraulic roller today the lift on 30/30 cam next to nothing .485 compaired to common 540/560 rollers, my point here rpms are not everything they did not do in the old solid lifter factory engines, but I have the cuss words down pat the scrapped knuckles from trying to increases spring pressure just a mild amount on pressed in studs.
I had a friend had an old impala dead stock 348 they did not rev anything pulled pressed in studs. GM should be shot for some of the bullcrap they have put off on people, but there not the only company.
My brand new 69 Z/28 had 18,000 miles put on it when the pressed in oil pump screen fell in the pan ruined the engine dealer replaced the crank two rods under warranty,12 yrs earlier my grandfather had a brand new 57 buick pressed in screen fell in the pan buick replaced the engine. 12 yrs later with my 69 gm had done nothing to fix the problem, things like this things just done half a-s is why gm is where its at today along with other american car companies.
Last post for a few days leaving town.
Last edited by Little Mouse; Jun 21, 2009 at 03:31 AM.










