the back story -

I wanted something fun this summer, was going to buy a street bike (Ninja). Ended up with an 81 vette.

The car -
1981 Repoed vette (yes someone had it as collateral on something). Nothing is perfect on it, everything is “fair”.

The Good –
The paint is pretty good shape, some scratches but ok for now
The engine seems alright (It spits oil from somewhere when I jump on it)
It has an Eldebrock carb and intake
It has an Excel ignition
It has headers (they need paint, but they are solid)
It runs out pretty well (other then the bad below)
The interior, while a little rough around the edges is in decent shape

The not so good –
It has what looks / acts like stock exhaust
It has an Auto trans (its tight, but not for me)
The rear spring is WAY soft
Did I mention the oil leak, it leaves spots on the driveway.
I think the rest of the engine is basically stock.

Anyway part of the reason the car became the summer toy is that not only can I drive it over the next few years I can pretty much redo all of it. I am planning to do the vast majority of the Labor myself, I’m a pretty good wrench and have been known to paint a car or two, so I’m not worried about my skill set.

Which leads me to my question – Where to start?

The budget –
This year now through dec 31, I have around 3K to put into it, next year – I figure around 5K will go into it (maybe trans?). I would image that around 5K a year will be the target to completion.

The total to-do list, in no order.
-Do something with motor, want around 500HP.
- I’m open to removing / rebuilding the one that’s there, or a 427 SB or pretty much whatever. I’m looking for an effective way to get to around the 500HP mark.
- Could do this in stages, such as cam / lifters this year, and rebuild next
-Replace the trans with a Manual
- I think this is going to be the TKO with hyro clutch ( ?next summer? )
-Redo the interior, there are some pieces I want to do by hand, such a custom center console, maybe a built in GPS / computer deal (pretty cool) and who can forget the pair of 12” subs…..
-Re-paint it, The only thing My wife has asked is that when its done its cherry red, I’m ok with red so she will get here way on this one.
-New exhaust – should be planned for the future HP.
-Tub it out (maybe, depends on how crazy I get with the body work)
-Replace the rear spring with some thing better then stock.



I guess I’m looking for thoughts kind of “if it was me I would do this ______” type of thing. Also, a reality check if I’m out of my mind trying to get to 500HP in this car without going Big Block.

One thing I want to avoid is spending money and then tossing it out later, such as putting in a cam and lifters that “work” with this engine, but won’t work in the 500HP engine, or any money into this motor if a 383 or 427 is what I need to be gearing for.

Anyway, the forum so far has been good, I want to get something done on this thing yet this year, really at this point I just need to figure out where to start.

 

OK if it was my car and im redoing a 1980 right now here is what i would do with your car!

1. motor-If the engine you have right now dosnt smoke and seems to run pretty good,i would just pull it and install all new gaskets on the whole engine.i would get this engine running as cheaply as posible but at the same time dependable to.500 hp i would find a four bolt block later and build my very fine moter from there and just drop it in when i was done.

right now on my 1980 im building a cheap but dependable engine for it,did not have a moter so i bought a 500.00 1986 corvette 350 and im going back with a quadrajet and cast intake (did not want to mess with the fuel injection,computer,ect)

im saving up the money to build a better engine on down the road and still have somthing to play with now.

 

Congratulations on the new vette. If you plan on keeping this car for any length of time, I would put my money into the foundation of the car, (frame and birdcage), before anything else. The last thing you want to have happen is to find you need to pull the body off the frame AFTER doing a new paint job and interior. It can be done but makes things a lot tougher to work on without damaging the new work.

Maybe you can drive it this summer and get some fun out of it before doing any big work on it. You can do some reading and figure out what you will need to work on the car over the winter. What I would do first is pull the body off the frame and thoroughly inspect the frame for cracks and rust. How far you want to go with the frame is up to you. You can weld in gussets to strengthen the frame, seams are stitch welded from the factory so you can fill in those welds and make them contionuous. Sandblast, powdercoat and/or paint the frame. Then make sure birdcage is sound especially around windshield frame. Put the car back together and now you have a solid foundation to start adding go fast parts and cosmetic stuff as you have time and money. Good luck, these cars are fun to drive. Drives like a go kart, likes turns!

 

sounds like a body off paint is the way to go, then I can clean it all up then.

I have looked it over pretty well from under it and it looks very solid, there is no cracking or extensive bodt repairs, the doors both open, close and seal well, as do the t-tops, so it seems to overall be in good shape.

I was thinking I was going to pull it off, I just know if I pull it apart first I won't be able to put old parts back in it, so it becomes an all or nothing adventure. and waiting two years to drive it again. I don't ever want to put that much into it at one time, or have it off the road that long.

I should be able to do some "tinkering" this year and spruce it up a little at a time. If I put a trans and motore in, then pull the body off, I would still be able to do a decent job on the frame, whether the motor came back out or not.

 

Well I think based on budget and the desire to keep me on the road I’m a little limited right now. Also based on what I’m reading if I want to get near the 500HP range I’ll need a 4 bolt for sure, and maybe even the 427 block. I don’t think the one that’s in there is even the four bolt.
So this year I think I’ll start with the rear suspension, a few repair parts, get the engine that’s in it sealed up and cleaned up, and put a good exhaust on it.

Next year I can build the new motor and drop it in late in the summer for a little fun. As well as get the interior done, I’m thinking the Sparco or Racaro seats doors skins and maybe some new carpet.

The following year I can put the trans in the spring, complete the interior pieces during the summer and then in the fall pull it apart do any needed frame work, paint it over the winter. And have it all back together for spring of 2012.

Wow that seems a long way off to have it done.

 

if it's the stock engine, you should look into buying a crate moter for your horse power goal. The '81 has 2 bolt mains. Not sure I'd push the stock block like that.

Also, the '80 and '81 have light duty rear ends with small universals. might want to look at that before throwing 500 horses at it.

 

If you take the "body off", you will end up costing yourself some 'significant' dollar$. Just the hardware, frame work, frame paint, suspension parts, brakes, and wiring harnesses that you [probably] will update/repair will cost you that $3K....not to mention that the car you wanted for the summer will be "down & out" for longer than that.

Why not just re-seal the engine with new gaskets and main seals (if necessary). You'll have to drop the pan for that, so you can check the condition of a rod bearing or two; added comfort if they are in decent shape. You could also get the TKO and clutch put in it at the same time. That work would eat up the $3K...but you will have a leak-free, serviceable engine and a new manual tranny.

If you are going to put 500hp in it, you'll want to upgrade the rear drivetrain components (which is not cheap); otherwise, you risk trashing all of that when you pump-up the motor. Determine what you need to do in the back and how much it will cost, once you upgrade the engine. It would be best to do the rear-end work before the engine upgrade.

Beefing up your engine will absorb more downtime for the car. Depending on what you want to do (keep the original engine, pull and save the original engine, etc.), a nice crate engine could work for you; that would save turn-around time for the swap. Maybe the rear-end and the motor could be next year's project.

If you are going to paint the car (I wouldn't, if the paint were in decent shape and the car was just a 'driver'), do that before re-doing the interior. It just saves a lot of cleanup work. And on the interior, don't replace any pieces that you can save. Cleaning those parts up really well and shooting them with some vinyl dye will bring them back to factory-new condition.

Have fun with your car.

 

Careful, you'll end up with a new 'vette. My '81 had a decent paint job, fair interior and original engine. I'm going to end up with all-but a frame-off, new interior, paint, tranny, engine, suspension, rearend, yada yada. Thank goodness I've found some good deals and can do most of the work myself. I decided I was going to do this once and do it right, had no idea what it would do to my bank account!
BTW, an '81 Corvette is the ONLY GM car ever produced that the engine designation is the same as the year, the L81 was the only engine available in this year's Corvette and this engine was used in NO other cars. Can you tell it's my favorite year???
Good luck, welcome to the fold.

 

So is the carb on the car not using the CCC? The HEI on the '81 is unique. Your HP goal pretty much means you will replace the engine, so plan on an entire new assembly from air cleaner to oil pan. I assume that emissions are not a concern now or in the forseeable future.

Is the 500HP goal at the flywheel or wheels? Big difference and cost.

Are you truly prepared to take on the expense of a 500HP build up and the other issues it brings? I would recommend going LSx crate retrofit for the many reasons people go that route. As more and more LSx engines go into retirement the option to buy used becomes more affordable for the more budget conscious. Still going to cost $$$ as $peed isn't free.

You could rebuild the entire front suspension and convert it to rack and pinion this year. That will go along way to improve the driving enjoyment and has no effect on your other plans. Most of the work can be done over weekends if doing it yourself (and save money in labor). Good time to decide on control arm replacement or transverse leaf conversion....many many options.

The rear suspension has to be completely redone with the intent of the HP requirement or it'll be money wasted having to redo it when it breaks.

 

Any rear spring or shock suggestions? Same deal with the front, anyone had good or bad luck with something in particular?

I like the Rack and pinion converstion idea, is there a direct fit kit somewhere?

I was just looking at some crates from another topic, some are in the range I had in mind. I figure over the next few years to put quite bit into this car. And as much as I like the crate idea, I really want to build it myself, do most or all the work myself, doing the work on it is half or more of the fun.

Even just knowing in order to get where I want to go means a different engine I now know not to waste money on a new cam or carb or something on the one in the car.

I don't forsee an emissions issue here in MI. I think the law is only a shop can't remove them, if one was there when it came in one must be there when it goes out, at least thats the way I last knew it was here. But I also understand that the new hi-flows don't restrict very much so maybe I should put them on for the trees, or whatever it is they are suppossed to protect

 

 

LOL - pretty funny reading back through original posts!!! After a couple years of overthinking what to do with this car I ended up doing noting. A few more years of divorce, new house, new kids, new wife, new addition, pretty much life.... the only thing I ever got done was to pull the engine out about 3 years ago and start to inventory what I had. Turns out its a matching numbers car, I was quite shocked, seeing it had some work done I was guessing it had at least a new motor at some point.

I'm just now finally getting back to this project. Since its matching numbers that makes a lot of decisions easy for me. I'm not going to hot-rod it with a replacement motor nor convert it to manual. Just going to tear it down, clean/fix/replace and put it back together. It already had all the smog stuff removed and headers before I got it so I think I'll end up doing engine rebuild, maybe some mild upgraded heads, bore, cam, intake. I'll upgrade the suspension as well, but again not go all out to coil overs or anything overboard. I might convert some of the vacuum stuff to elec. like the headlight doors.

So far I have the engine bay pretty gutted out and just have the wire harness and trim to finish up on interior and I'll be ready to lift the body off. Really lucky how well its all come apart so far, very few rusted solid or broken bolts. Lots more to do but nice finally getting some time to work on it and having some direction.

 

Hey.... It'll only be another 5...15....maybe 30 years till it's back together again.

No, I have faith in your resolve and you'll have it together in 20xx. Like Red Green used to say, "I'm pluggin' for ya'. We're all in this together.!"

 

You move about as fast as I do! I think I would do a leak down test. If it was good, I would probably check my bearings. If they are OK, I would install a new Mellings 10554 Big Tube Pump & Pickup & get a set of 64CC AFR 180 or Profiler 195 heads, replace Gaskets & Seals, clean engine & engine bay, then install the engine. I would use the stock cam. Oh, Replace all your vacuum hoses. I would then find a rearend out of a 80, they are 3.08, 3.09 or 3.10 gear ratio. I would "shake out" the suspension, Change brake fluid & install Koni shocks. Then drive it as much as you can, see what failures you have. I did like the computer controlled carb & distributor on these, if you could find good ones, I would recommend getting them. After you chase demons after driving, I would consider bigger wheels, grippy tires & aggressive brake pads. Good Luck!

 

Which do you prefer???

 

Hey life happens! Understand. Been on mine for nearly 10 years and had a bunch of delays. And not very far from where I started. So be sure and take pictures (keep them on the cloud in case you lose the phone or computer) or better post them here on your build thread on the forum. Bag and label all your parts. Keep your bolts and hardware together and labeled. Good idea on the models to test ideas. Personally I like the bottom right one best. Think you are choosing a good route with just doing mild modifications. Are you thinking painting or powder coating? Good luck. I am sure you will have lots of questions as you go along and these guys are a great help. Stay at it!

 

LOL... posted this to my very very old thread when I first bought the car... meant to put it on my build thread. https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...e-project.html

But I hear you it does happen and can change on a dime for sure!! I have lots and lots of pics and label's, good thought on backing them up will do that! I'm leaning to the bottom right as well, would like a way to get the frame to jump out from body a little more if I can. I'm having all the metal acid (Alkaline really) dipped and then E-coated, goes in on Monday.

 

Oh boy! I give you huge credit if you ever finish this. I just don't have enough in me to tackle something like this, and I have had to do a lot on my 81. I wish you well.

 

I would have suggested years back what almost happened with it. Like keep it basically stock, sell it and get the one you want. Didn't seem the budget would have gone too far each year with 5K. That could have gotten ate up fast.

Did you get to drive it much?

 

FWIW, M 10554 inlet is 3/4". Older OE sbc is 5/8".
For its final many years of production, most sbc have OE 3/4" big pickup tube. Melling M155 (not M55) is OE standard duty replacement pump w/ 3/4" inlet and cost less than half of the "M Select" 10554