I understand that my '71 LT-1 has the fixed cross member and will take some contorsions to remove the Muncie. The question I have is, should I break the joint between the tranny and bell housing, OR between the bell housing and block? I had the whole thing out this winter with the engine. I am most defintely NOT pulling the engine again. I just need to know what the best approach is to getting the tranny out. I will remove the exhaust, the tranny mount with exhaust hanger, three shift rods, and the drive shaft. Then the speedo cable, back up light wiring, and CEC switch lead, and anything else that looks like it might be attached. With this done, can I get the tranny to move back far enough to get the shaft to pull clear of the bell housing? Or should I pull the bell housing with it, minimizing the distance that the tranny has to go aft to get the shaft clear so I can drop it down? I just never tried this before in a vette, with the engine in place, but since clutches get changed I know it can be done! The thoughts of the experienced forum members are most welcome.

 

No problem. Pull just the trans out and back as far as possible and rotate it slightly. This will allow the input shaft to come back far enough to drop down and slide the trans down and out. Done it many times. Plenty of clearance. Remove the shifter and linkage also.

 

[QUOTE Remove the shifter and linkage also.[/QUOTE]

This part scares me a little. I have layed under the car and studied that for 10 minutes with my hands trying various approaches and the access to get the two bolts that hold the shifter to the bracket is virtually nonexistent. Maybe I can get the 4 bolts that hold the bracket to the frame cross member and pull it as an assembly? If not, can the tranny be worked out with the shifter and bracket in place?

 

Never tried it but I would have to say no. It is a very tight fit with the shifter out. I don't see how it can be done with the shifter in. It is tight to get them out but it cacn be done. Just be patient and work it a little and it will come out. I hated the original shifter, it was a big pain to get out and did not owrk very well for performance applcations. The Hurst shifter was much better and easier. It bolted to the trans and not the frame.

 

Unhook the linkage from the tranny, pull the shifter console, undo the bolts holding the shifter to the bracket, and pull the whole thing out the top

 

Paul: Both times I removed the trans, I did without the benefit of a lift. I work off the floor after raising the car 14"-18" on jackstands (more if needed or avail). Of course, safety is a primary motivator to conduct this so ensure the car is secure after placing on stands.

I prepare to separate the trans from the bellhousing by disconnecting and removing all the items you listed. I used a section of 2x4 or 4x4 block of wood on a floor jack to support the engine's oil pan, to control rear angle of crank centerline once trans is free. I also remove the shielding around the distributor if it's there but not the distr to minimize binding above intake manifold. Some may remove distr but I found enough room in mine without.

The input shaft splines run through the clutch disc into the pilot bushing or bearing in the end of crankshaft when trans is bolted flush to bell. Once the driveshaft is removed and all else is disconnected and removed or pushed aside, remove the 4 bolts securing the trans to bellhousing. Unbolt the rear mounts. The tailshaft has the yoke still in it to keep from losing gear oil as you manuever the trans.

Pull trans back into the tunnel until the input shaft clears the disc and throwout bearing (careful not to let trans weight hang somewhere in between or you may bend the disc or risk cracking the trans front bearing collar, requiring fresh replacements), lower the nose and you can remove from under car.

You only need to experience this act once before you get the hang of it (pun intended). Good Luck and let us know how you do.

 

Split the tranny at the bell housing. Use a tranny jack...or a floor jack with a stable platform on it...to support the transmission. The platform/plate needs to be attached to the lift end of the jack so you can manipulate the tranny (roll, pitch, yaw) in order to wiggle it out of its 'nest'. Unless you are young, strong--and maybe a little daft--don't try to muscle that Muncie out by yourself with no tranny lift.

 

I think you need to remove the shifter bracket to get the trans out.

I had to replace my clutch and throwout bearing and I'd rate this right up there with replacing the power brake booster.

If they'd only put in a bolt-in crossmember.....

 

Thanks guys. Looks like I've got my work cut out for me. I hadn't thought to try and get to the shifter bolts from above. That sounds like it might work.