Brake Line Removal Question
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 432
Likes: 0
From: Manchvegas NH
Brake Line Removal Question
I started a caliper raplacement job at all 4 corners. Besides going through a can of PB Blaster, the job has gone relatively well, except for one problem.
I twisted the right front brake line while trying to loosen the nut. I decided that I would just replace it, but I can't get at the other end that is attached to the bottom of the proportioning valve. It is hidden out of sight, and this doean't seem like a job that should be done blindly.
Are there any tips at getting this removed?
I was also thinking of repairing the broken end. I guess I would have to figure out a way to attach a new nut and then flare the end of the line. Is this a possiblility? It may be simpler that removing the other end of the line.
I twisted the right front brake line while trying to loosen the nut. I decided that I would just replace it, but I can't get at the other end that is attached to the bottom of the proportioning valve. It is hidden out of sight, and this doean't seem like a job that should be done blindly.
Are there any tips at getting this removed?
I was also thinking of repairing the broken end. I guess I would have to figure out a way to attach a new nut and then flare the end of the line. Is this a possiblility? It may be simpler that removing the other end of the line.
Last edited by pra4sun; Jul 4, 2009 at 11:58 AM.
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 31,124
Likes: 4,196
From: Westminster Maryland
Hi Dennis,
That connection to the crossover line is sheltered somewhat because it's upside down like you said, and since it's in the engine compartment it often has a little oil film protecting it too. It may come loose pretty easy for those reasons.
Make sure your flare wrench is a good fit and also make sure you're turning the nut the right direction since you're looking at it upside down.
Regards,
Alan
That connection to the crossover line is sheltered somewhat because it's upside down like you said, and since it's in the engine compartment it often has a little oil film protecting it too. It may come loose pretty easy for those reasons.
Make sure your flare wrench is a good fit and also make sure you're turning the nut the right direction since you're looking at it upside down.
Regards,
Alan
Burning Brakes
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 1,028
Likes: 1
From: SOUTH ELGIN IL
Getting at that valve was very challenging for me when I replaced all my brake lines with new stainless ones. If memory serves I went at it from both the top and bottom and eventually removed the master cylinder since i had the system cracked open anyway.
I don't have power brakes though, and I think not having a booster and having the master cylinder out made it a lot easier on me.
Make sure you note the locations of each line in the valve so you can get it back together.
I don't have power brakes though, and I think not having a booster and having the master cylinder out made it a lot easier on me.
Make sure you note the locations of each line in the valve so you can get it back together.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 1,028
Likes: 1
From: SOUTH ELGIN IL
Pro
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 593
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From: Warrenville IL
On my '75 the proportioning valve is mounted to the inside face of the frame rail. Once the car is up in the air it can be accessed easily from below.
Definately replace the line. Cheap and relatively easy to do. There is no substitute for safety and most of your stopping power is generated by the front calipers, hence why front pads wear quicker than rear.
Definately replace the line. Cheap and relatively easy to do. There is no substitute for safety and most of your stopping power is generated by the front calipers, hence why front pads wear quicker than rear.
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Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 432
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From: Manchvegas NH
Could be an interesting read for you:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-t...line-pics.html
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-t...line-pics.html
I went at it again with the flare wrench and an overnight soaking of PB and still wouldn't budge. I'll try again in a couple of days, but I might switch to vice grips if I can get them on.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 432
Likes: 0
From: Manchvegas NH
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 432
Likes: 0
From: Manchvegas NH
I wonder if the 69 and 70 proportioning valve is the same. There is not a lot of clearance underneath the valve to get a socket on, but will be worth the attempt.
Advanced
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 99
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Or, (gasp), a vise grips
. (ps. No, I don't use vise grips, pipe wrenches, channel locks, or open end adjustable wrenches on "good" parts!)
Pro
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 582
Likes: 1
From: Madison Wisconsin
3rd Gear
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
From: Seattle WA
Im doing the same job and have tried just about everything mentioned here. But a broken ratchet and some swollen fingers later, all I've managed to do is frustrate myself. It seems like it should be a simple job but i can't figure out how to get it off
Safety Car
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 3,558
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From: Oakland California
.