When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Guys i have a 7 quart oil pan,and i bought a after market dipstick,im tring to figure out oil level and mark the dipstick,how high does the oil go up to in the oil pan?
On my custom oil pan the extra oil is all in the bottom of the pan (bottom enlarged) so the top of the oil where the dip stick reads is still at the same level. IF this is the case with your oil pan it would be the same way.
Here is a pic of mine for clarity of what I'm talking about.
Assuming the oil pickup is the correct distance from the bottom of the pan, shouldnt filling the engine with 7 quarts, running it to insure the fillter is filled, and then letting it cool and marking the oil level on the stick give you the correct mark?
Assuming the oil pickup is the correct distance from the bottom of the pan, shouldnt filling the engine with 7 quarts, running it to insure the fillter is filled, and then letting it cool and marking the oil level on the stick give you the correct mark?
Sounds logical,and should give a close reading maybe,This is what i was going to do when i change oil,i was wondering if theres another way.How far up does the oil go on the oil pan?
It will vary with the shape of the oil pan which is why it is important that the pickup be properly located near the bottom of the pan. If it is too high under certain condition it might suck air. The idea is to have that 7 quarts of oil covering the pcikup up at all times.
From: Who says "Nothing is impossible" ? I've been doing nothing for years.
Do what is outlined above, fill the motor with the correct amount of oil for the oil pan you have including the filter. Run the motor and check where the oil is on the dipstick after letting it sit an hour or so. THen scribe a mark on the dipstick, this is your full level.
I think the "Full" [hot] mark on a stock dipstick is about 1/2" below the engine block/oil pan splitline. I would assume that's where the oil level should be with other pans. If not, the oil pan you bought should come with some instructions. [To verify, stick your stock dipstick in the tube with the oil pan removed and look for the mark.]
I think the "Full" [hot] mark on a stock dipstick is about 1/2" below the engine block/oil pan splitline. I would assume that's where the oil level should be with other pans. If not, the oil pan you bought should come with some instructions. [To verify, stick your stock dipstick in the tube with the oil pan removed and look for the mark.]
No instructions,its a moroso stroker oilpan ,notched for clearancing.7 qt.
Then I would assume that the level of oil in your engine [when not running] should be the same as any other SB Chevy engine. That engine has a limited amount of oil circulating through it at any one time, so I don't see the oil pan requiring any change. A bigger pan just provides a larger quantity of 'reserve' oil and maybe cools the oil a bit better because of the larger surface area of the pan dissipating more heat.
Then I would assume that the level of oil in your engine [when not running] should be the same as any other SB Chevy engine. That engine has a limited amount of oil circulating through it at any one time, so I don't see the oil pan requiring any change. A bigger pan just provides a larger quantity of 'reserve' oil and maybe cools the oil a bit better because of the larger surface area of the pan dissipating more heat.
That's what I was "trying" to say.
Here is a pic of a 7qt SB Moroso. (Correct me if this isn't yours)
The extra oil capacity is all in the bottom of the pan. Very similar to mine above.
This is so that in a race, the wings help ad surface area for extra cooling & during extended time in curves all the oil doesn't slosh to one side of the pan, away from the pump pick up, causing oil starvation.
Even if the oil pump has been changed for one that reaches deeper into the aftermarket pan, the top level of oil will still be the stock level on a stock dip stick. This being said, if a stock dipstick is available then it shouldn't be difficult to put them side by side & copy the markings. The end of the dip stick is irrelevant,line them up side by side paying close attention to where the handle would touch the block & then copy where the lines are, straight across.
I have the same problem, not Moroso, but a generic pan from KMC motor sports. I question the "7 quart" label for these pans, mine takes over 8 qts to get it to normal on the dipstick. I was wondering if my dipstick somehow hit the windage tray & deflected up.
Another thing, too high oil level may be why I can't figure out a big oil leak I have. All these seals & gaskets are not meant to be submersed in oil. New motor about ready to come out if I can't track down my leak, appears to be coming from above gasket & rear main looks ok. If any one knows of another thread on this let me know.
Thanks
Here is a pic of a 7qt SB Moroso. (Correct me if this isn't yours)
The extra oil capacity is all in the bottom of the pan. Very similar to mine above.
This is so that in a race, the wings help ad surface area for extra cooling & during extended time in curves all the oil doesn't slosh to one side of the pan, away from the pump pick up, causing oil starvation.
Even if the oil pump has been changed for one that reaches deeper into the aftermarket pan, the top level of oil will still be the stock level on a stock dip stick. This being said, if a stock dipstick is available then it shouldn't be difficult to put them side by side & copy the markings. The end of the dip stick is irrelevant,line them up side by side paying close attention to where the handle would touch the block & then copy where the lines are, straight across.
Yes thats my pan,i wished i hadnt bought it.Nothing but problems so far,leaks,cant get a nice dipstick for it,i had to make one up with billet handle.I will try your idea first to see how it comes out
On the related topic of leaking aftermarket oil pans that we all seem to be having. Whats a good sealant &/or application to use?
I had to pull mine a while back to solve "dip stick delete" issues & now it leaves a small puddle over night. To complicate the issue my pan wont actually come off the motor because of the way the oil pump & pan is made (race stuff). When I reinstalled, I used a gasket sealant that worked like a pluming glue can, with the little fuzzy swab in the cans lid. It didn't work but tried it because of clearance issues to get "something" in there. Probably would have worked if the sealant had been a thicker consistency & hadn't dried so quickly.
On the related topic of leaking aftermarket oil pans that we all seem to be having. Whats a good sealant &/or application to use?
I had to pull mine a while back to solve "dip stick delete" issues & now it leaves a small puddle over night. To complicate the issue my pan wont actually come off the motor because of the way the oil pump & pan is made (race stuff). When I reinstalled, I used a gasket sealant that worked like a pluming glue can, with the little fuzzy swab in the cans lid. It didn't work but tried it because of clearance issues to get "something" in there. Probably would have worked if the sealant had been a thicker consistency & hadn't dried so quickly.
Sounds like you used indian head gasket sealer.it works great if used right,you must apply to both maiting sides and let dry,then put together.i have used it and it does work really good,never had anything leak when i used it.My oil pan i used a one piece rubber oil pan gasket ,you do not use any sealent with them.But my pan leaks at the 2 spots i could not get a bolt in.Thank God it doesnt leak at the dipstick deleted spot on the pan Just piece of the gasket hanging out.I could have gone with a non stroker pan after i found out that my crank was clearenced already for the block.
Sounds like you used Indian head gasket sealer.it works great if used right,you must apply to both mating sides and let dry,then put together.i have used it and it does work really good,never had anything leak when i used it.My oil pan i used a one piece rubber oil pan gasket ,you do not use any sealant with them.But my pan leaks at the 2 spots i could not get a bolt in.Thank God it doesn't leak at the dipstick deleted spot on the pan Just piece of the gasket hanging out.I could have gone with a non stroker pan after i found out that my crank was clearenced already for the block.
Humm, maybe thats what I did wrong then. Mine had a gasket (probably cork) that was still attached to the pan nicely (still new from being built) & I didn't think I could get it cleaned off without contaminating the inside of the pan because it wont actually come all the way off to get to it. I'll try putting this stuff on both the gasket & block services & letting it dry when I do my oil change from break in oil to synthetic here pretty soon.