Removing Trailing Arms??
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 2,343
Likes: 4
From: Anderson SC
-W
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 2,343
Likes: 4
From: Anderson SC
Those of you who got this done with a minimum of time and blades, did you cut throught the rubber bushing first (and therefore the bushing sleeve and then the bolt) or did you go through the shims to the bolt?
To me, it feels like the bushing sleeve is barely cutting. I've been through 5 blades, but when I go in with a hand held hacksaw blade to "feel it" - it feels smooth, almost like I'm shining up the bushing sleeve instead of cutting it. WTF is that bushing sleeve made out of?
-W
To me, it feels like the bushing sleeve is barely cutting. I've been through 5 blades, but when I go in with a hand held hacksaw blade to "feel it" - it feels smooth, almost like I'm shining up the bushing sleeve instead of cutting it. WTF is that bushing sleeve made out of?
-W
Le Mans Master
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From: mount holly NC
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When I did it I just cut thru the shims and the bolt. One cut on each side of the TA bushing. You can deal with the bushings once the TA is off. PG.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 3,389
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From: Norfolk Virginia
As I recall, I was at it for several evenings after work and don't EVER want to try it again, if I can help it
Race Director
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 19,610
Likes: 778
From: Forked River NJ
There are different kind of carbide blades. There is a toothed carbide or a carbide grit edge. The carbide tooth edge blade is the wrong blade to use. It will chip easily and break the teeth off. These blades are used for fiberglass and bathroom tile. Not meant for steel and bolts. The bouncing around will destry the blade. The carbide grit edge blade will cut this and is made for very hard materials. It is slow cutting but it will go through. As I said before a GOOD bimetal blade will cut this application very well. 1 or 2 blades will do the job.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 805
Likes: 5
From: Naperville Illinois
Those of you who got this done with a minimum of time and blades, did you cut throught the rubber bushing first (and therefore the bushing sleeve and then the bolt) or did you go through the shims to the bolt?
To me, it feels like the bushing sleeve is barely cutting. I've been through 5 blades, but when I go in with a hand held hacksaw blade to "feel it" - it feels smooth, almost like I'm shining up the bushing sleeve instead of cutting it. WTF is that bushing sleeve made out of?
-W
To me, it feels like the bushing sleeve is barely cutting. I've been through 5 blades, but when I go in with a hand held hacksaw blade to "feel it" - it feels smooth, almost like I'm shining up the bushing sleeve instead of cutting it. WTF is that bushing sleeve made out of?
-W
I don't know if this will work for you, I guess it depends how frozen up everything is.
Good luck!
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 2,343
Likes: 4
From: Anderson SC
I'm currently using the Lenox bi-metal blades, and they are not living too long even with lube.
-W (off to get better blades for tonight - too hot to continue)
Last edited by Clams Canino; Jul 13, 2009 at 11:25 AM.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 805
Likes: 5
From: Naperville Illinois
[QUOTE=Clams Canino;1570768661 I started a new cut where the shims meet the bevel washer and that seems to be going better.
[/QUOTE]
I say "wrong" because I tried it both ways, and I couldn't make any headway trying to cut through the bushing. Once I started cutting through the shims, it went faster.
[/QUOTE]
I say "wrong" because I tried it both ways, and I couldn't make any headway trying to cut through the bushing. Once I started cutting through the shims, it went faster.
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Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 2,343
Likes: 4
From: Anderson SC
-W
Last edited by Clams Canino; Jul 13, 2009 at 10:07 PM.
Former Vendor
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 766
Likes: 3
From: Charlotte North Carolina 704-394-5150
Those of you who got this done with a minimum of time and blades, did you cut throught the rubber bushing first (and therefore the bushing sleeve and then the bolt) or did you go through the shims to the bolt?
To me, it feels like the bushing sleeve is barely cutting. I've been through 5 blades, but when I go in with a hand held hacksaw blade to "feel it" - it feels smooth, almost like I'm shining up the bushing sleeve instead of cutting it. WTF is that bushing sleeve made out of?
-W
To me, it feels like the bushing sleeve is barely cutting. I've been through 5 blades, but when I go in with a hand held hacksaw blade to "feel it" - it feels smooth, almost like I'm shining up the bushing sleeve instead of cutting it. WTF is that bushing sleeve made out of?
-W
It is toss up, cut through the shims and bolt or the rubber, sleeve and bolt.
I do it another way when I am dealing with the early design shims that will not come out , unless the bolt is removed......but I do not want to post it because many may thing I'm crazy. But they do not know the extent of the precautions I take to make everythiing safe.
GOOD LUCK and try to use some cutting oil to keep the blade cool. I REALLY feel your PAIN. I have been there......
"DUB"
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 2,343
Likes: 4
From: Anderson SC
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 2,343
Likes: 4
From: Anderson SC
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 2,343
Likes: 4
From: Anderson SC
Mr. Lenox saw blade here. I sell the blades and whatever you do use a good quality bi metal blade. 18 tooth is the best but a 14 will do OK also. Use a little cutting fluid it will really help. I have done 2 trailing arms with 1 blade and wanting more. Good luck with it. Try to keep the bouncing down also, it will help the blade life. 
Saying Lenox alone or even bi-metal does not "cut it" in this application. It ate Lenox bi-metal blades for lunch and wanted more.
You need 8" "Lenox Gold" TITANIUM EDGE bi-metal blades - you can get a 5-pack for about $25 and get the whole job done with one pack. Try to cut between the inner shim and the bushing washer, if you have to deviate, err toward the shims, not the bushing - worked for me. (For all I know the Lenox Gold blades can cut the evil bushing sleeve - but I'm not gonna be the one to find out today. I'll post back when I try to use one to cut the old bushings off the arm)
Side note: I ran out of cutting fluid and I did this:
Spray the cut with carb cleaner to cool and then WD40, cut till you see some smoke, rinse and repeat. Worked fine - blade still good.
-W
Last edited by Clams Canino; Jul 14, 2009 at 10:00 AM.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 2,343
Likes: 4
From: Anderson SC
Those bushing sleeves are made out of some really bad-*** steel. My 1st try quickly polished up a blade. Then I went in with a small chisel and "damaged" the side of the sleeve so the saw could get it's first bite. That worked - but it still took two blades per sleeve to cut them.
I now have 2 free TA's without bushings.
I cannot stress enough **not** to try to cut the arms off the car via the bushings. Even the titanium edged blades were barely a match for the bushing sleeves with full access to them.
-W (my arms are in flames - but worth it)
Former Vendor
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 766
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From: Charlotte North Carolina 704-394-5150
Clams Canino,
Knowing that you are not going to use the early designed shims. and that you are going to use the shims with the slots in them. MAKE SURE that you drill a hole in the frame so the long cotter pin can be used to secure them and not allow them to fall out like the factory did in the 69-82 models. I use a 1/4" foot long bit and tehn modify the length to what will work.. IF you need a picture of the exact location to drill, I (or somebody) can post you one. Glad to read that you got the t/a out.
"DUB"
Knowing that you are not going to use the early designed shims. and that you are going to use the shims with the slots in them. MAKE SURE that you drill a hole in the frame so the long cotter pin can be used to secure them and not allow them to fall out like the factory did in the 69-82 models. I use a 1/4" foot long bit and tehn modify the length to what will work.. IF you need a picture of the exact location to drill, I (or somebody) can post you one. Glad to read that you got the t/a out.
"DUB"
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 2,343
Likes: 4
From: Anderson SC
Funny.... I was just thinking about that last night.... 
I'm going to use the new shims and the old saved bolt nubs to "hang them" on - to mark the correct location for the holes. Outta be perfect.
-W
PS: Are you saying they waited until after 1982 to add the cotter pins?? Was it a recall of sorts?
I'm going to use the new shims and the old saved bolt nubs to "hang them" on - to mark the correct location for the holes. Outta be perfect.
-W
PS: Are you saying they waited until after 1982 to add the cotter pins?? Was it a recall of sorts?
Race Director
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 19,610
Likes: 778
From: Forked River NJ
I never tried to cut the bushings. Always just the bolt. The Titanium edge blades are a coated blade. They are coated with Titanuium Nitride coating. The blade is the same as the standard bimetal blade just a coating. It is expensive to put it on that is why the cost is up there. It is designed to shed the heat. The blades worst enemy is heat. The heat generated destroys the high speed steel edge rendering it dull. If you can keep the heat down the teeth will stay sharp. Therefore the coating or something to keep it lubed or cool. If you have a variable speed sawzall it will help also. The harder the steel the slower you want it to stroke. Yes it will take a little longer to cut but the blade will last a lot longer. I pretty much have a good supply of blades. I'll try to cut the bushing when I get a chance to. Good to hear the blades worked for you.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 2,343
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From: Anderson SC
A good thing too!!
The problem with a 68/69 is that the bolt goes through the shims. So you have to cut through the bushing or the shims to get to the bolt.
Go through the shims if you need to... the bushing is a beast best left for when it's in the vise.
-W
The problem with a 68/69 is that the bolt goes through the shims. So you have to cut through the bushing or the shims to get to the bolt.
Go through the shims if you need to... the bushing is a beast best left for when it's in the vise.
-W
Race Director
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 19,610
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From: Forked River NJ