Removing Trailing Arms??
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 2,343
Likes: 4
From: Anderson SC
Removing Trailing Arms??
OK back to business.
After week of heating, PB blasting, and whacking my bearing supports untill my big brass tool is shredded. I've decided to pull the trailing arms (since they were coming off anyway for sandblasting and new bushings) and press the bastiches out.
So you just remove the 2 castle nuts and "poof" the bolt will just slide right on out (after 41 years) and fall into the frame - right.
I know you're going to say "cut the bolts" - and I'm going to say "WHERE?" It seems that I'm blessed with the *%^@ing 1968 style shims that actually wrap around the bolt. (sigh)
I assume I wanna get in there somehow with a sawzall and cut, but I don't want to hurt anything *except* the bolts, the shims, or the old bushings.
So I come here seeking both enlightenment and some encouragement.
-W
Just a reminder I'm on a dial up and cannot see pictures... but I see the damn thing in my sleep as it is... just tell me verbally and I'll see it.
After week of heating, PB blasting, and whacking my bearing supports untill my big brass tool is shredded. I've decided to pull the trailing arms (since they were coming off anyway for sandblasting and new bushings) and press the bastiches out.
So you just remove the 2 castle nuts and "poof" the bolt will just slide right on out (after 41 years) and fall into the frame - right.
I know you're going to say "cut the bolts" - and I'm going to say "WHERE?" It seems that I'm blessed with the *%^@ing 1968 style shims that actually wrap around the bolt. (sigh)
I assume I wanna get in there somehow with a sawzall and cut, but I don't want to hurt anything *except* the bolts, the shims, or the old bushings.
So I come here seeking both enlightenment and some encouragement.
-W
Just a reminder I'm on a dial up and cannot see pictures... but I see the damn thing in my sleep as it is... just tell me verbally and I'll see it.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 6,422
Likes: 591
From: McHenry Illinois
Cut between the trailing arm and the shims, you may cut part of the end of the bushing as long as you don't cut the arm. If ther isn't enough room for that, then cut right through the shims and the bolt.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 7,123
Likes: 433
From: Gladstone MO
C3 of Year Finalist (appearance mods) 2019
Get 8" metal cutting blades for the Sawzall- good ones. And they wear out pretty fast. As the end wears, you can cut the blade off until it's so short you can't use it anymore. If you put the sawzall at an angle above the t/a you can get there. PITA, but doable.
Racer
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 294
Likes: 1
From: Racine Wisconsin
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 2,417
Likes: 336
From: Texas
wear some gloves, when the saw blade sometimes hits the back of the frame pocket , its murder on the knuckles. good luck, i had to do the same thing couple of years ago,
this weeks project is pulling out the th350 trans. because the front seal is constantly taking a leak!!!!
this weeks project is pulling out the th350 trans. because the front seal is constantly taking a leak!!!!
Last edited by speedreed8; Jul 11, 2009 at 05:17 PM.
Race Director
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 19,610
Likes: 778
From: Forked River NJ
Mr. Lenox saw blade here. I sell the blades and whatever you do use a good quality bi metal blade. 18 tooth is the best but a 14 will do OK also. Use a little cutting fluid it will really help. I have done 2 trailing arms with 1 blade and wanting more. Good luck with it. Try to keep the bouncing down also, it will help the blade life. 
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Former Vendor
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 766
Likes: 3
From: Charlotte North Carolina 704-394-5150
Do mean to add pain to you issue. Did you use an air hammer to try to remove the trailing arm bolt? If not, you may acquire one and carefully try. Mine is more like a jack hammer. Removes the most stubborn ones.
It is really worth a try, unless you already have tried, due to the other method is a royal pain.
"DUB"
It is really worth a try, unless you already have tried, due to the other method is a royal pain.
"DUB"
Instructor
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 199
Likes: 2
From: Suffern NY
I just did this last month. To say pain in the A$$ is an understatement. Use a sawzall with 8" metal cutting blades and plenty of cutting lube. Have 20+ blades on hand.
One suggestion is to concentrate on cutting one shim to the point where the hole for the cross bolt is opened up then tap it out with a chisel. This will allow access to the bolt and then cutting across the bolt is quick and easy. The addition of lubrication is key to cut down on blades.
Keep at it. Took about 4 hrs per side but it can be done.
One suggestion is to concentrate on cutting one shim to the point where the hole for the cross bolt is opened up then tap it out with a chisel. This will allow access to the bolt and then cutting across the bolt is quick and easy. The addition of lubrication is key to cut down on blades.
Keep at it. Took about 4 hrs per side but it can be done.
Safety Car
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 4,883
Likes: 11
From: North Easton Mass
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 7,123
Likes: 433
From: Gladstone MO
C3 of Year Finalist (appearance mods) 2019
It's not just SoCal- My 69 was built in St. Louis, shipped to Kansas City, and has lived there all of it's life. I did the rear suspension on that one 2 years ago. Took a long brass punch and pushed the bolts out. car had 30k on the clock. Now the 74 was a real PITA, and I forsee the 77 being even worse. On the flip side- when the bolts go back in, they get a coat of anti-seize so 40 years from now whoever takes them out will have no trouble.
Tech Contributor
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 15,154
Likes: 3,959
From: Connecticut, USA
My 69 came out of RI, I had to cut them out. My 72 was only a CT car always garaged the bolts came right out. My 75 went to Canada new,then Maine, then Mass and now CT, someone else installed new bolts that came right out, of course they did wreck the spindle, bearings,and arm but the bolts came right out!
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 2,343
Likes: 4
From: Anderson SC
OK... a battery powered DeWalt is not the ticket. I killed both batteries in about 40 minutes. I managed to cut through the rubber bushing next to the swing arm and when I hit the sleeve things got hot and I got smelly melted rubber goo.
However it seems to be cutting still just slowly.
I'm off to go borrow a Sawzall that actually plugs into a cord. And to get some better blades, the 18 tooth Dewalt metal blades cut... but I can do better.
-W
However it seems to be cutting still just slowly.
I'm off to go borrow a Sawzall that actually plugs into a cord. And to get some better blades, the 18 tooth Dewalt metal blades cut... but I can do better.
-W
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 1,164
Likes: 1
From: Port Clinton Ohio
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13
Do mean to add pain to you issue. Did you use an air hammer to try to remove the trailing arm bolt? If not, you may acquire one and carefully try. Mine is more like a jack hammer. Removes the most stubborn ones.
It is really worth a try, unless you already have tried, due to the other method is a royal pain.
"DUB"
It is really worth a try, unless you already have tried, due to the other method is a royal pain.
"DUB"
This is the way to go. On my car, one side took about 20 minutes. The other side came out right away.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 2,343
Likes: 4
From: Anderson SC
Maybe I'm missing something... but it looks to me like a straight on shot with an air hammer is severely impeded by the front part of the rear fender? There's an angled shot at it - but it looks to be high risk for hitting the fender lip area.
-W
-W
Instructor
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 199
Likes: 2
From: Suffern NY
You are correct. I tried an air hammer and nearly chpped my dogleg on the fender. The air hammer is ideal with the BODY OFF, not body on. Good luck today with the rest of your cutting.
