Lower shock mount woes.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 2,343
Likes: 4
From: Anderson SC
Lower shock mount woes.
This is the first "damage" I've discovered.
While I was taking apart my left side shock today anticipating removing the T/A tonight, I discovered that my left strut camber strut was bent, and my left shock mount was loose. Upon removing the shock mount I see it's been that way for a while. There is some wear on one of the shoulders and worse, there is wear on the bearing carrier so that the D shaped hole is almost round. (sigh)
I'm not inclined to buy a new bearing carrier, and it seems pointless to buy a new shock mount unless I do buy a new bearing carrier.
I can think of many other ways to spend $300+ dollars.
So... what are my options? My 1st inclination is to weld it on at final assembley. I mean, both parts are already "toast" on paper - why not?
So long as I'm careful not to overheat the strut bushing - I can't see a problem.
But I'm really hoping a "better idea" appears here.
-W
While I was taking apart my left side shock today anticipating removing the T/A tonight, I discovered that my left strut camber strut was bent, and my left shock mount was loose. Upon removing the shock mount I see it's been that way for a while. There is some wear on one of the shoulders and worse, there is wear on the bearing carrier so that the D shaped hole is almost round. (sigh)
I'm not inclined to buy a new bearing carrier, and it seems pointless to buy a new shock mount unless I do buy a new bearing carrier.
I can think of many other ways to spend $300+ dollars.
So... what are my options? My 1st inclination is to weld it on at final assembley. I mean, both parts are already "toast" on paper - why not?
So long as I'm careful not to overheat the strut bushing - I can't see a problem.
But I'm really hoping a "better idea" appears here.
-W
Race Director
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 19,610
Likes: 778
From: Forked River NJ
How are the knurls on the other side. Is it a tight fit once the shock mount is torqued down? Mine is a little rounded on the corners, not round but the knurls are still good and it is tight once tightened down. Mine have been like this through many times on and off. Once you torque it down it stays pretty much where it is put.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 2,343
Likes: 4
From: Anderson SC
The knurls are worn off over about 1/3 of the circumference. And that area is worn deep enough to be visable and create some slop. I don't think it's as good as yours. I fear that tacking it on in a few places after tightening might be the only way to keep it totally still for sure. I'd try JB welding it in there after sandblasting for texture... but I don;t think it would be string enough to withstand shock forces without some movement.
Whatever I do.... if I don't spend the $300, it's gonna be "Bubbafied" one way or another. I just want it safe and solid. I'll note the anomaly on the car's "worksheet" and assume I'm never taking it off again anyway.
-W
Whatever I do.... if I don't spend the $300, it's gonna be "Bubbafied" one way or another. I just want it safe and solid. I'll note the anomaly on the car's "worksheet" and assume I'm never taking it off again anyway.
-W
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 7,123
Likes: 433
From: Gladstone MO
C3 of Year Finalist (appearance mods) 2019
Here's my thought for a "Bubba" fix. Take a sharp punch and make a new knurl area on the shock mount- use the punch to raise a series of dots that will make the OD a little bigger. Maybe need to do the insode of the strut too, but overall it'll be cheaper than new parts and will probably get you by.
FWIW: I've had to do this a couple of times- not on a shock mount, but on an old 6 cyl Chevy that the balancer was wobbling around on the crank, and again on a semi trailer that had spun a wheel bearing race in a hub. It got the guy off the side of the road and back home.
FWIW: I've had to do this a couple of times- not on a shock mount, but on an old 6 cyl Chevy that the balancer was wobbling around on the crank, and again on a semi trailer that had spun a wheel bearing race in a hub. It got the guy off the side of the road and back home.
Former Vendor
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 76,656
Likes: 1,852
From: Jeffersonville Indiana 812-288-7103
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15
The support is cast but it can be welded but it takes a very experienced welder to do this. We had this same problem with the 63 NCRS frame we were doing.
We welded up the support and then machined it back to the correct D form. You might take it to a machine shop or someone with good welding experience and let them look at the support.
I have new supports on our web site; HERE This might be cheaper than paying someone to weld one up. On the 63 frame we had to keep the original support due to the dates and casting numbers on this support. The knurl side was fine on this support so once the D was fixed it worked perfect. You might try to look for a good used one!
Willcox Inc.
We welded up the support and then machined it back to the correct D form. You might take it to a machine shop or someone with good welding experience and let them look at the support.
I have new supports on our web site; HERE This might be cheaper than paying someone to weld one up. On the 63 frame we had to keep the original support due to the dates and casting numbers on this support. The knurl side was fine on this support so once the D was fixed it worked perfect. You might try to look for a good used one!
Willcox Inc.
Race Director
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 14,112
Likes: 28
From: Florida
The support is cast but it can be welded but it takes a very experienced welder to do this. We had this same problem with the 63 NCRS frame we were doing.
We welded up the support and then machined it back to the correct D form. You might take it to a machine shop or someone with good welding experience and let them look at the support.
I have new supports on our web site; HERE This might be cheaper than paying someone to weld one up. On the 63 frame we had to keep the original support due to the dates and casting numbers on this support. The knurl side was fine on this support so once the D was fixed it worked perfect. You might try to look for a good used one!
Willcox Inc.
We welded up the support and then machined it back to the correct D form. You might take it to a machine shop or someone with good welding experience and let them look at the support.
I have new supports on our web site; HERE This might be cheaper than paying someone to weld one up. On the 63 frame we had to keep the original support due to the dates and casting numbers on this support. The knurl side was fine on this support so once the D was fixed it worked perfect. You might try to look for a good used one!
Willcox Inc.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 7,426
Likes: 1,559
From: mount holly NC
2025 c3 ('74-'82) of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
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Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 2,520
Likes: 11
From: Hinckley OH
Here's my thought for a "Bubba" fix. Take a sharp punch and make a new knurl area on the shock mount- use the punch to raise a series of dots that will make the OD a little bigger. Maybe need to do the insode of the strut too, but overall it'll be cheaper than new parts and will probably get you by.
FWIW: I've had to do this a couple of times- not on a shock mount, but on an old 6 cyl Chevy that the balancer was wobbling around on the crank, and again on a semi trailer that had spun a wheel bearing race in a hub. It got the guy off the side of the road and back home.
FWIW: I've had to do this a couple of times- not on a shock mount, but on an old 6 cyl Chevy that the balancer was wobbling around on the crank, and again on a semi trailer that had spun a wheel bearing race in a hub. It got the guy off the side of the road and back home.
Former Vendor
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 766
Likes: 3
From: Charlotte North Carolina 704-394-5150
Either have it repaired...CORRECTLY...or get another. The "D" is ther for a reason. If your splines are wiped out, you really need to get another lower shock mount bolt. The splines are there for a reason also.
I have a bearing support housing also.
But it is up to you...and I would not, under any circumstances for any reason, do the "punch /dimple bubba fix" like was mentioned in an above post. This is an IMPORTANT area of the SUSPENSION.. And IF the dimples made by your punch allow it to crack and separate, while cornering or under a load, it will damage more than the cost of a new lower shock mount bolt. And I am shocked that an AIRCRAFT MAINTENANCE INSPECTOR suggested it.
"DUB"
I have a bearing support housing also.
But it is up to you...and I would not, under any circumstances for any reason, do the "punch /dimple bubba fix" like was mentioned in an above post. This is an IMPORTANT area of the SUSPENSION.. And IF the dimples made by your punch allow it to crack and separate, while cornering or under a load, it will damage more than the cost of a new lower shock mount bolt. And I am shocked that an AIRCRAFT MAINTENANCE INSPECTOR suggested it.
"DUB"
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 2,343
Likes: 4
From: Anderson SC
Either have it repaired...CORRECTLY...or get another. The "D" is ther for a reason. If your splines are wiped out, you really need to get another lower shock mount bolt. The splines are there for a reason also.
I have a bearing support housing also.
But it is up to you...and I would not, under any circumstances for any reason, do the "punch /dimple bubba fix" like was mentioned in an above post. This is an IMPORTANT area of the SUSPENSION.. And IF the dimples made by your punch allow it to crack and separate, while cornering or under a load, it will damage more than the cost of a new lower shock mount bolt. And I am shocked that an AIRCRAFT MAINTENANCE INSPECTOR suggested it.
"DUB"
I have a bearing support housing also.
But it is up to you...and I would not, under any circumstances for any reason, do the "punch /dimple bubba fix" like was mentioned in an above post. This is an IMPORTANT area of the SUSPENSION.. And IF the dimples made by your punch allow it to crack and separate, while cornering or under a load, it will damage more than the cost of a new lower shock mount bolt. And I am shocked that an AIRCRAFT MAINTENANCE INSPECTOR suggested it.
"DUB"
Plenty of time to see what I can find used before we cross that bridge.
-W