Battery Cable Splice?
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 385
Likes: 3
From: Hamilton Mass
Battery Cable Splice?
Unfortunately my 70 has been converted from factory side mount, to a top mount battery connection. I would prefer to bring it back to side mount. ---- Replacing the negative cable is simple but trying to put a new possitive cable would be a nightmare with the transmission in place and along with all that tunnel insulation.
My question is; are there any concerns about cutting off the top mount terminal and splicing a side mount connection in its place? Deka makes side mount terminal splice that looks good --- appears to be about 8" long and incorporate a crimp connection. ----this is not my field and would like your advice pertaining to any safety conerns?
Thank you!
My question is; are there any concerns about cutting off the top mount terminal and splicing a side mount connection in its place? Deka makes side mount terminal splice that looks good --- appears to be about 8" long and incorporate a crimp connection. ----this is not my field and would like your advice pertaining to any safety conerns?
Thank you!
Team Owner
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 37,637
Likes: 3,113
From: Crossville TN
I would not recommend a 'crimp' type connector for a battery line....too much current draw required. If you don't get a really solid connection, the connector can get hot quickly. If you can solder it in place (you'll need a BIG soldering iron), it would be fine. Also consider using the present line to 'fish' a new one through; just clean the ends of the wires well and use duct tape or install a crimp butt connector from the present wire to the new wire, then pull the old one out. Also, if you go to a fine-braided welding cable, the new wire will be much more flexible and easier to pull through.
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 31,134
Likes: 4,206
From: Westminster Maryland
Hi 67ST,
Replacing the cable as 7T1 suggested may not be as difficult as you fear.
I think the trickiest job will be to get the the clips the cable runs through loose. They really get rusty and the nut wants to twist off the stud that's riveted to the underbody. PB Blaster for a couple of days!
Good luck!
Regards,
Alan
Replacing the cable as 7T1 suggested may not be as difficult as you fear.
I think the trickiest job will be to get the the clips the cable runs through loose. They really get rusty and the nut wants to twist off the stud that's riveted to the underbody. PB Blaster for a couple of days!
Good luck!
Regards,
Alan
Safety Car
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 4,883
Likes: 11
From: North Easton Mass
You can also buy side-mount connectors that are held on by a bolt-on strap. You would just have to cut off the top-mount connector, take off 1/2" or so of sheathing and bolt the new connector on. Running a new cable with the transmission in would be very difficult. I'm in the process of installing a new positive cable now and there is no way I could have removed the cable clamps with the trans installed.
Rick B.
Rick B.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 8,117
Likes: 104
From: charlotte north carolina
i did as 72 ls1 suggested. bought a new end connection at parts store and a slip-bolt connector at home depot. removed the insulation and brightened the copper with a knife and tightened the connector. tape the hell out of it!
Team Owner
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 37,637
Likes: 3,113
From: Crossville TN
A 2-bolt type clamp-on connector would be considerably better [and safer] than a crimp-type connector. Just make sure you get it good and tight...but not overtorqued on the bolts. Use a lot of insulating tape on any exposed metal at that junction.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 6,245
Likes: 470
From: Glen Allen, VA
I still would not use a bolt on type battery connector unless I had to. I used to run those on a car I had a while back, and they wound up giving me a lot of trouble. If you do, I'd keep an extra one in the car at all times just in case.
