Okay, this isn't specifically Corvette related, but someone from Yahoo answers pointed me here and said you guys might be able to help.

In my dad's garage sits a rebuilt GM motor block from like the fifties, v8, 264. He says if I want to play around with it(that is, try to get it running) I can. The headers and the gaskets are all still in great shape, being only ten or twenty years old.

What I'd like to know is, after cleaning it up a bit, getting the little rust off of it, where should I go from there? It'd be nice to find that book he was talking about that layed everything out specifically, down to torque specifications...

Anyway, any help, links, etc. greatly appreciated.

 

Figuring stuff like this out has gotten a lot easier since Al Gore gave us the internet. I would start here:

http://www.nastyz28.com/chevy-engine...ngs.php#suffix

That should tell you what kind of block you have, and what kind of car it came in if the numbers are still there. From there, you should be able to get original build specs.

 

buy a crate motor and be done with it. I'll never rebuild another motor.

 

It would be a 265, the very first of the Chevy small-blocks from 1954-57. Cool engine

Now are you just trying to see if you can get it running, or are you "building an engine from scratch", i.e. overhauling the engine? All other answers will flow from the answer to this question

 

'55 265, yes. All I want to do is see if I can get it to run. No overhauling required, it has already been rebuilt.

 

kinda of a pointless suggestions since the OP wants to "play around with the engine" he isnt looking to get a motor running to put in a car. he wants to learn how it operates.

 

From an educational standpoint, go get a Motors or Chilton manual- not a specific one just a generic "covers everything". Start reading. There are tons of books out there from basic how does it work to full on how to get the most HP.

 

take it completly apart, clean everything then put it back together with all new gaskets...it will probably fire right up. All you will need a book for is the torque specs, and those can be found by typing things like "265 head bolt torque" into google.

 

If it is truly from a 1955 car, it will not have an oil filter boss. You need to make sure the old oil is drained and probably flushed, add new oil before trying to fire it.
If it does have a provision for an oil filter, the cartridge type in a canister, it's probably a 1956 engine but you should still change oil.
I agree with Tim. Get a manual like Motors ot Chiltons (Haynes would be my last choice but would still have enough generic info, most of it correct, for a start).
If it's been sitting in a protected place for 10 years, I wouldn't be afraid to put it in a car and try to start it after removing the sparkplugs, squirting a little light oil into the cylinders, and trying to turn it over by hand. If it's been sitting 20 years, that might be too long to start it without pulling the heads to check for sticking valves and cylinder rust.
Those early 265's had a tendency for piston cracking near the skirt so if you are change your mind to do a total rebuild, figure on a new set. You might have to have it bored if the cylinders are out of round so you would need new pistons anyway. Hopefully the previous rebuild covered that.
My first engine rebjuild was a 1955 265 a long time ago but for the same reason as yours. Just as a learning experience.
Good luck on your project.
Terry

 

The best reference material for that engine is the Chevrolet Chassis Overhaul Manual that was printed by Helm for GM, dealer's and owner's use. They are still available. Or you can go to a local library and get a Chilton's manual for that engine. Either will have the info you need to work on it.

Even though the engine was "just overhauled", that was several years ago and lots can happen to an engine that is just sitting and not running. You must disassemble the engine part of the way to make sure that there is no damage due to rusting/corroded parts, such as the piston rings being frozen in the cylinders. You could put something like PB Blaster into the cylinders [via spark plug holes] and try to loosen things up; but that may or may not work. Since you are wanting to learn about the engine anyway, why not take the oil pan off, then remove the lower bearing caps to evaluate the condition of the bearings and journals (and to put some start-up lube on them). Also remove the intake manifold and take the cylinder heads off. At that point you can put the de-rust fluid directly on the rings/pistons and let it set a day or two...then try to turn the engine over by hand (or with a wrench). If it turns freely and you don't see rust in the cylinders or in the heads/valves, put it back together.

You will probably need to disassemble the carb to make sure it isn't stuck. It should get a new needle valve and float as a minimum; if it wasn't freshly rebuilt when the engine was done, you might as well do it now and get it over with. Again, you will be learning all about the engine and how it works. New points, condenser, plugs and wires are imperitive [IMO]; rotor and cap are optional if you see no corrosion/damage.

Get a timing light and dwell meter ready, put fresh oil and a new filter in it, change the fuel filter and supply some gas, then light 'er up! Let us know how it goes. It's great to find some new youth who has an interest in this stuff. We'll help whenever you need it.

[P.S. Make sure you change the hoses and belts before you install it in a vehicle.]

 

I would Ebay the engine as is. They are rare and valuable now. Then buy a 350 cheap, the "How to Hotrod Small Block Chevy's" book and a Chilton manual and have at it. Small block chevy's are relatively easy to work on and rebuild and the best way to learn is rebuild it from the bottom up.

 

Thanks for all that, everybody. Though I may have made it seem that I have a nearly-built motor. All it is is a block and heads, nothing more. I will try to get up a few pics when the sun comes back up.

 

As we've all learned more about what you're trying to accomplish I've come away that your goals and your approach aren't compatible. Assembling an engine that's been sitting in parts for a long time just isn't going to happen without a serious dollar investment and some skilled machine work.

I'm with 63Mako - someone will desperately want these parts and you can likely sell 'em for what it would take to buy a late-model Vortec engine that you can get running easily and learn engines on from a much better starting point.

Not in any way trying to discourage you - just tryin to suggest a path with the best chance of success!

 

The 'financially prudent' way to go is to sell the block & heads you have and to buy a completed engine. But, then, you won't learn anything about building an engine, will you?

Another alternative is to sell the block & heads, then buy all the parts necessary to build a nice engine...the best of both worlds.

But, if you really want to keep the 265 for yourselves, stick with "Plan A".

 

Never having actually seen the engine, I too would guess it's relatively valuable. Perhaps someone would be willing to spend a lot of money to buy it. If you'r not experienced building engines, there's a chance you're going to damage it. I'd also second the idea of buying a cheap used 350 and having at it.

For a first time engine rebuild, you can do dozens of things correctly, but it only takes one mistake to do a lot of damage/destroy an engine. About 20 years ago, I spent probably $2000 rebuilding an engine that ran about 5 seconds.