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1970 454 auto. From a stand still automatic shifts predictably.
When cruising and give car heavy gas, kickdown does not respond very well. It does not want to downshift from 3-2 or 2-1.
I have check main items such as fluid level, modulator and TCS (transmission control spark) intake solenoid.
I checked these items in the sense that they appear to be connected correctly.
Looking for diagnostic advise
The kickdown on your TH 400 is electric. The switch is inside the car mounted at the upper end of the accelerator pedal arm. Power should be on one side of the switch with the key on. When the pedal is nearly to the floor, the switch closes and sends power to the trans connector on the left side. Inside the pan (trans) there is a solenoid that causes the 3-2 downshift.
Now you need to see if the under-dash switch passes 12 vdc when activated, and if that voltage is received at the connection on the side of the tranny. If there is 12 vdc at the tranny when the kickdown switch is activated, the solenoid inside the tranny is defective or plugged up. They are easy to change out [if you can find a new one] once you drop the oil pan and remove the filter. It has an oval shaped coil cover, on a odd-shaped base, mounted to the bottom of the valve body with two small bolts. Good luck.
The kickdown on your TH 400 is electric. The switch is inside the car mounted at the upper end of the accelerator pedal arm. Power should be on one side of the switch with the key on. When the pedal is nearly to the floor, the switch closes and sends power to the trans connector on the left side. Inside the pan (trans) there is a solenoid that causes the 3-2 downshift.
Thanks all! I will be looking into today. I just reviewed my factory service manual. Found the section for kickdown solenoid. It shows on the carb, beside throttle cable and adjustment instructions.
Thoughts
I'll let you know what I find
I have a 68 with a TH400. The switch is above the pedal and is yellowish plactic. It is activated by a lever at the end of the pedal.
If you have the same set-up on your 70 as I do on the 68, the switch can not be adjusted to my satisfaction. I have the switch adjusted as far as it will go and I still need to plant my foor to get it to downshift.
Would be interesting to see if anyone has a solution. I would like to have the kickdown work a lot sooner.
I have a 68 with a TH400. The switch is above the pedal and is yellowish plactic. It is activated by a lever at the end of the pedal.
If you have the same set-up on your 70 as I do on the 68, the switch can not be adjusted to my satisfaction. I have the switch adjusted as far as it will go and I still need to plant my foor to get it to downshift.
Would be interesting to see if anyone has a solution. I would like to have the kickdown work a lot sooner.
Have the same setup on my 73 and it is shiate! I think the objective at the time was WOT only. I have to shift down manually when I want on demand. I am considering trying this carb mount setup;
If you already have a functioning switch (even though it isn't adjusted to work properly), you just need some bits of hardware to create a shim or spacer so that it will activate sooner...or to re-position the switch so that it works. That stuff is available for pocket-change at your local hardware store. $50 to fix it is a bit much....
turn on the key
crawl under the dash
find the switch
push it by hand
if you hear a click in the tranny everything is working.
when i got mine it had a thick layer of electrical tape around it to make it kick down earlier.
If you already have a functioning switch (even though it isn't adjusted to work properly), you just need some bits of hardware to create a shim or spacer so that it will activate sooner...or to re-position the switch so that it works. That stuff is available for pocket-change at your local hardware store. $50 to fix it is a bit much....
I took a 1.5 inch dow (used for a cloths hanger bar) and cut a slice 1/2 inch thick , drilled a hole in it and slid it over the switch actuator. This experiment made it work better but not ideal. Even by adding the 1/2 inch extra on the actuator it still requires nearly full throttle to kickdown. Additionally, This is the limit! If I were to add a larger spacer, the actuating lever would reach the mechanical limit of the switch and either push it back out of adjustment or break it off. I have been toying with the idea of adding some spring material on the pedal lever itself. The thought here is to actuate the switch early then allow the spring to bend instead of breaking the switch. A more expensive option would be to add about 200 more HP. With the extra HP I may not care if it downshifts...
Thanks: I like the idea of turning power on and pushing switch and listen for a click. That will be first. I may also shim or dowel. Is this a cronic problem for TH400? Are there any other components on the tranny that may also be causing problem?
If you already have a functioning switch (even though it isn't adjusted to work properly), you just need some bits of hardware to create a shim or spacer so that it will activate sooner...or to re-position the switch so that it works. That stuff is available for pocket-change at your local hardware store. $50 to fix it is a bit much....
Because I would like to have a more responsive and adjustable precision switch. The factory unit is clearly meant to be a WOT only engagement. If the Jeg's unit allows reasonable adjustment based on throttle position that's worth $50 to me.
Okie-dokie. If it works for you, that's all that counts.
And, to the other poster: The kickdown solenoid is the only piece of cr@p in a THM-400. Early versions had a quality solenoid, but it cost too much and the GM purchasing boys found another one for less than half the cost. Of course, that one only worked half the time...or not at all. But since it wasn't a "safety" issue, no one cared [except for us owners, of course]. The rest of the tranny is bullet-proof. The tranny in my '71 coupe operates flawlessly and has never had an operational problem (per the 35 years of records in my possession)....oil and filter changes only. That's pretty d@mn amazing!
Sorry if I hijacked the thread surely didn't mean to. I surely agree with 7T1Vette on this from a basic operational perspective. I just wanted to point out that I have played with mine several times over the course of the last year and still can't get consistent ops, and it is definitely the switch.