Thought I'd ask for ideas on this before I do something that might have a better solution.
I picked up a used BG Six Shooter and it does not have provisions for a temp sending unit. Unfortunately my Brodix heads don't either so I have to figure something out. There is no boss in the manifold either and the area is slightly tapered which makes it even more of a problem.

Maybe weld in a nut to provide more meat for the sending unit?? I'll have to take it somewhere for that, I can't weld aluminium.

Any other way to solve this?

And if I end up using this thing, those plastic fuel lines will be history.

 

Easy, I have a temp. sending unit in the heater connection.

 

You might be able to remove the heater hose nipple and get a T fitting and install the temp bulb there

 

I had a similar problem. Initially, I just used some threaded gas pipe and put a T where you have your heater hose. I screwed the temp sending unit in one side and the male heater fitting in the other. Of course, the key to the sending unit is that is should be submersed in the fluid to read accurately. After running that for a while, my heater core started leaking, so I just opted to do what Ganey did and skip running the lines to the heater core and put the temperature sending unit where I had the T.

 

Well, that's an option but I'd like to have the heater up here in NE.

 

So did that work out before you finally removed it?

 

Why not stub it into the manifold inlet housing. It should be easy enough for someone to weld a 'bung' into the side of the body. Better there than in a heater line; that line won't have flow unless the heater is ON. (It would warm up eventually...but that is not what you need.)

 

Assuming you will not move to a warmer climate (J/K), drilling & tapping should work fine or while not ideal some stock thermostat housings have a place for an emissions temp. control valve that could be utilized.

 

True about the flow, I didn't think of that.

Actually, I have my old engine in the garage with that T'stat housing tapped for the emissions stuff. I bet this thing will screw right in, if not I'll make it so it does.


Thanks for all the good suggestions, I'm glad I asked. If the T'stat housing I have doesn't work I'll just screw it into the heater connection for the summer and see how this intake works before I resort to the welding stuff.

Bill

 

Try a thermo housing for I believe a '77 vette at the auto parts store. They have 2 tapped holes for sensors. That's how I solved my engine build this past winter for 10 bucks.

 

I'll check it out. Thank you!!

Very cool......look at that, I think that's what Ganey was talking about. Even angled correctly, thanks for the tip!

 

Bingo. That's the solution I used for the e-fan sensor. Works like a charm.

 

sorry im coming in late here i was searching for a location to install mine since the heads that i have done have a bung (dart pro-1 310 runner big block) and thought about installing it in the t- stat but that will only read a somewhat accurate temp once the t-stat has opened.

 

I realize I'm coming late to this party but I have a newbie question, because I am one. It appears on my '75 Coupe's 350SBC engine that my temperature sending unit is under the exhaust manifold on the driver's side. There is a female slide on electrical connection. Is that possible? Please bear in mind that this isn't the original engine and my purchase of this vehicle in April has left me investigating all kinds of idiosyncrasies that are sometime maddening.

My problem is that when I put an IR temperature gauge on the area it appears to be hotter than any other place I put the IR. The water neck on the intake manifold shows 185 but my gauge on the dash shows 200 degrees and sometimes more.

By the way, when I shoot the exhaust manifold it shows somewhere in the neighborhood of 300 degrees. Is that normal?

My intake manifold (Edelbrock) has a fitting in what looks like a place that this could be relocated. Is that a good idea or will I get a different/lower and therefore also inaccurate?

I would like to know where the best place I can put the sending unit/sensor that will give me the most accurate reading without compromising the long term life of this engine.

Thanks.....

Kirk

 

Hi Kirk,

Yes that's the correct location for the original temp sender and the terminal on the top is correct for the slide on connector.
I did a heart transplant on mine but my new block didn't have a place for it in the factory location so I had to install it in the intake manifold near the goose neck. In my opinion the factory location gives a much more accurate temp of the engine since it's nearer the water jacket, if you install your gage in the intake you'll see a considerable drop in temp reading.

You'll see quite a range of temps on the exhaust manifold depending on how hard the engine is working. 300 deg is pretty cool, you must have taken the reading shortly after start up and idling.

I ended up not installing this tri-power setup, I sold the thing.