Trailing arm bolt solution
Let me say I am also now a PB blaster disciple
I got the bolt to move about 1/2 inch, and then it stopped. I figured out it was free on both ends but frozen in the bushing. Pounding had no effect
Now, I was able to get the shims out already (whew!) and figured why not use the strength of the bolt to my advantage. So I forced the arm inboard until it stopped, and place the some of the shims back in (after they were labeled of course) on the outboard side. I threaded the castle nut back on, and started to crank on the castle nut. This way, the bolt would move slowly outward, the trailing arm would stay in place, and the bolt would free from the bushing. Believe it or not, it worked! After six full threads of movement, I shifted the arm inboard a bit, removed the shims and tapped away at the bolt with a screwdriver. Once it was through the outer hole, I supported the arm to re-orient it and tapped on the bolt head to move it the rest of the way. Be careful when tapping on that side, there are fuel lines there! Anyway, I wanted to share an alternative that worked for me and avoided the cost of blades and time cutting the bolt. Hopefully it will help someone else!

Rick B.
I got the bolt out in right side by hammering but the left side has been standing soaking in WD40 for a couple of weekends and occationally I have wacked it - but no budge.
After reading your post I went right out and it moved. Took me less than 15 mins to get the bolt out completely.
Last edited by cl3884; Nov 8, 2020 at 11:14 AM. Reason: Missing reference





First time I saw this way of solving the problem and thought it was so obvious.
I have posted some questions in a more recent list
Last edited by cl3884; Nov 9, 2020 at 06:17 AM.









