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Ok bought a new battery, put it in, turned the key and nothing, had the clutch depressed. When down below and did the screw driver trick. Heard a slight clicking noise but no engage sound, forgot it was stick. I only tried the jump start starter trick in an automatic. So I used a line tester, put it on the starter wires and I have juice going to it. I took the starter out tried to use one from an auto since I knew it worked, but didn't fit. Then said du what was I thinking? So If I have juice I'm thinking it has to be the starter. How can I test it just to make sure it's not? It is out of the car right now. Can I hook a battery to it and see if it will engage?
Ok bought a new battery, put it in, turned the key and nothing, had the clutch depressed. When down below and did the screw driver trick. Heard a slight clicking noise but no engage sound, forgot it was stick. I only tried the jump start starter trick in an automatic. So I used a line tester, put it on the starter wires and I have juice going to it. I took the starter out tried to use one from an auto since I knew it worked, but didn't fit. Then said du what was I thinking? So If I have juice I'm thinking it has to be the starter. How can I test it just to make sure it's not? It is out of the car right now. Can I hook a battery to it and see if it will engage?
Yep, Jumper cables to the large terminal and ground, then bridge to the inside terminal. The one marked S. It should turn. If that dont work, touch the hot cable to the wires coming out of the case itself at the front of the solinoid. That will bypass the soliniod.
Take it to most any parts store and they will test it for you.
Find the OE battery Crank amps spec.
When the parts house checks the starter, make sure the draw amps are lower than the OE bat spec.
For instance.
I needed a starter for my 69 Mustang.
OE bat was 210 CCA
starter after starter were benched at 300 amps draw, finally guy pulled one from shelf that drew 180 amps.