So was I right? You just need to turn the drive shaft round?

 

Go back 7 threads from your post above to Elle88.................

" Originally Posted by babbah View Post
:
The tach drive when looking at the dizzy from the break booster should have the tach dirve on the right side of the dizzy (Nearest to the firewall - furthest away from the intake manifold.....

Elle88 -
ok. thanks. found the problem. on my 8572 the tach drive is in opposite position ( toward the carb ). i know how to fix it now

 

Go back 2 posts before your first post.......

Do you want to take credit for a captured enigma machine too?

 

[QUOTE=Golden;1573075774]

Go back 2 posts before your first post.......



Do you want to take credit for a captured enigma machine too?[/QUOTE]

 

Come on guys, you are both right. Please, let's not argue on this thread. Here is a more important question for you both. Can this be fixed without pulling the distributor?

 

yes. thanks Golden and Babbah.
but more important now : BRAKES!
check my post about using the vac can...

 

I'm pretty much in the same boat with you on how I view power requirements for my shark, as it isn't a drag car either. This was a big reason I decided on another 427 in lieu of the 496 I aborted.

Günther may have the best long term answer in converting to manual brakes, since that stock type appearance matters to you. Yes, you should change the master cylinder out for the difference in bore diameter, but IME the real trick is in locating the correct pushrod. Anyone know a reliable source for them?

Back to the steering, the quick ratio (forward most holes in the steering knuckle) is 17.6:1, while the "slow" ratio intended for manual steering is 20.2:1. Thus, moving to the rear holes nets ~15% improvement in mechanical advantage. Worth doing in my book.

 

sunny day and 60F deg .went out for a short ride. still short, sorry .going step by step...

setted the shift light at 4000 rpm and did acceleration till 80mph or so.
great but the engine wants to shift much higher.no time for another pass. the throttle response in 4th gear up to 80mph is great . fluid , progressive.

the manual steering is great. I felt real safe at speed and car under control ( finally!) , no sloppy steering , little or no play...happy.need to move tie rod end to ext hole...

brakes. not so bad at the end. i disconnected the headlights from the intake to get rid of possible leaks ( but no , i'm sure) and I must say that brakes are quite fine. I will try to connect the brake booster to the vacuum can . if it works ok...

gas .
my last day ride was with 98 RON gas +5% toluene. total 100 RON. I had no run on and very cool operation.
today I put instead 98 RON gas only. a little run on and slightly hotter operation. today the engine was at correct operating temp, last day was a bit too cold

to crank up the engine when cold : no problem. when hot , the starter has some hesitation...then goes. battery is fine. I think the very hi advance... at least 20 deg at idle ( 1200 rpm ). a lot but Kevin and Tim did that to keep the engine idling ( light springs on dizzy and mech advance at idle)

 

We figured about max possible compression to run pump fuel with the cam, maximum initial advance to get the best idle and still start and quickest advance without ping to get the best idle quality and cruise operation without vacuum advance. Sounds like we just about nailed everything as close as possble. There was a lot of research, calculation and dyno tuning to achieve all this with the parameters we had to work with.
Yes, it will want a higher shift point than 4000 RPM. Your just inching into the powerband there. Wait untill you run it hard through the gears the first time with 6500 RPM shifts. It will put a real big smile on your face. This is as close to a true L88 build as you can get and run pump fuel. It has all the characteristics, Nasty idle, low vacuum, Premium fuel needed, not really a putt around town engine but it will just flat out plaster you in the seat and keep you there on a high rpm run through the gears and always seem to want more RPM. Be careful what you ask for you just might get it.

 

Some of the race cars I work on have the very simple timing retard switch on the dash. Some of them are 10-20 degrees retard. It is a must with the older Vortech Magnitos You also use them just before turning off the motor to cool the plugs and prevent run on.

 

update

today has been my first ride since I got into the vette world ( just a couple of years ago ) that finally everything is close to perfection! happy

engine : crisp , smooth throttle response.it resemble me when I drove the Z06... temp ok , press ok , everything magically fine.
set the shift light at 5200 rpm. climbs like hell but engine still wants more rpms,it seems endless. unfortunately I have to set the rev limiter to 6k because i don't have handy a 6k5. I have a 7krpm but 63mako say that better to stay within the 6k5.
I want this engine to last! I can live without some top rpm. advises are welcome
63mako: the power band of this engine is wider than what you think. I think because of the broad torque curve , it starts pulling hard at 3000 rpm and while rpm climbs the power remains very progressive .it seems a fuel injected engine . I don't feel a power burst when it goes to 5k rpm .this smooth throttle response is what i wanted and fundamental to drive the car fast on the roads

steering -suspension :
completed the manual steering conversion ( external holes on steering knuckles) , correct toe , reduced the Avon race tires pressure to have them better adapting to the asphalt imperfections.
what a difference! the steering is ultra tight at speed and the car doesn't wander anymore.just goes where you point the steering wheel and the road ruts have no influence anymore. Now I can use the power on the street!

just a "problem" .
checked the oil level and found in it 1 quart more. 63 mako and I don't know why...drained the quart in excess. the problem is that the engine has been dynoed with that quart more ( and 20w50 , to stay on the safe side). can someone figure out ( 427 hotrod ) which would have been the power numbers of my engine without that quart oil in excess and 10w40?

 

The engine, carb and timing curve was dialed in as good as it gets for optimal throttle response, idle cruise and peak power. It will pull harder all the way up to 6500 RPM shift point. You should still be well into your powerband on the upshift when you shift with your 4.11 gears at that rpm. Wait until you do shift at 6500 and get into the throttle after the shift. You are just inching into it now and droping below your operating range when shifting. I am glad you are happy with the build and tuning. I bet you will run with that Z06 until 140 MPH. The thing others will tell you is a 7000 RPM shift will get you 500 RPM higher when you get into the next gear up. It would be way faster in the 1/4 shifting higher but to make it last I would be conservative. There is always someone faster.
As for the oil level, what can I say. Apparently the aftermarket dipstick we picked up to dyno the engine was incorrect for your pan and engine. It would have been nice to get good dyno numbers with a quart less oil and 10W-40 in it. I am guessing we left close to 30 HP and torque on the table with that error. Others will chime in on that. It would probably be accross the board. One plus is there was plenty of spash lubrication on the cam and cylinder walls during break in.

 

ok kevin ,
i will replace the 6000 rpm plug-in in the msd 6aln with the 7000 rpm ( i think 7k rpm is enough protection if I miss a shift -sometimes the third gear when i'm in a hurry ) and in next ride i'll try tho shift at 6000 rpm or so.... going step by step

 

63Mako nice build. And I fully understand your worry about RPM. As I am sure he is not going to spin the Engine to 7 grand all the time. But a spurt from time to time to 7 grand should be no problem with this engine. Not to mention when your back cracks it sure feels good lol.

Way back when the LS-7 short block was cheap I think between 1,5oo and 1,8oo we used to spin those motors up to 8000 or so and never had a problem. But as you know things are no longer cheap lol.

 

Glad to see your update, and that it is performing beautifully, particularly the way the power comes in.

Agree there was likely some measurable power left on the table with the extra oil in the crankcase. Just how much? IDK for sure, but might be enough to have put it very close to the models I had run when looking at carb/intake options. In any event, a rule of thumb is that the closer is sump oil to the crank the more potential there is for power loss.

Below are some piston speeds for a stock rod length 427 to mull over, if it helps you consider where to set the limiter. FWIW, I'm planning on limiting my long rod (H-beams), solid roller 427 to "just" 7200...

6000 RPM = 3760 FPM mean, 6177 FPM max
6500 RPM = 4073 FPM mean, 6692 FPM max
7000 RPM = 4387 FPM mean, 7207 FPM max


Bottom line: Great job Kevin.

 

When Tim was removing your engine from the dyno he unhooked everything. The oil temp probe was removed and oil leaked out into the pan under the engine. Tim noticed this later and at that point the dipstick was already out. He added a quart of oil before shipping. This is where the mysterious "extra" oil came from. It was dynoed with the correct amount.Your engine had Brad Penn break in oil in it originally. That was removed and the Brad Penn 20W-50 added. The filter was cut open and checked for unusual shavings. After dyno your filter was again removed, cut open and checked. All good. The filter on it now when shipped had no run time at all. It was new.

 

i have a chokeless carb on this build. the start up of this engine is very difficult due to radical cam , lot of advance etc. I'm going asap for a manual choke 850 DP. while waiting for it , how to manage a diy choke? I have the L88 air cleaner and I can apply an easy removable air flow restriction around the mesh wire screen .how much % of that mesh area should be left open to simulate a choke?

 

That looks real nice! Don't know about a homemade choke but did notice your plug wires are missing. TTT

 

this is a pic of the previous engine ( see the dizzy...) just to show the air cleaner for choke purpose.


the new engine

 

Hi

Why can you not install a electric choke to your existing carb ?

I don't think that closing off the wire mesh will work. When the choke is closed, there is very little air gap left, this would mean that the wire mesh needs to be nearly closed off.

When I had the chokeless 850 DP installed, I had to keep pumping the gaspedal during cranking/starting and even when it started to run, I had to keep pumping for 10 to 15 seconds until the vacuum started to suck enough fuel. By pumping, the carb mechanical fuel pumps will deliver enough fuel to start up and stay running.
Same I had to do with the 750 and 650 DP chokeless.

Similar I have to do now with the tripower because I also removed the choke here. It didn't work correctly anymore after I blocked the intake exhaust crossover to keep the carb's base cool.

Rgds. Günther