I am building Elle88's new motor. Objective is to be able to run pump fuel and be as close to an L88 build as practical. Aldo (Elle88) had an issue with his last engine and it was going to need a rebuild so we are starting from scratch. Got most of the parts together. This is the short block.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/427-1...Q5fAccessories
Uncrated yesterday. First thing I noticed before removing the plastic is the Torrington bearing machining at the front of the cam tunnel is poorly done. It is not perpedicular to the cam tunnel and has a lot of chatter. This will have to be addressed. Also has used cam bearings. This was supposed to be ready to go. With these two red flags before even unwrapping the plastic I know we are at the point this will have to come apart and be checked out closely. Seller provided no build sheet and has not responded to phone calls. Elle88 sent heads. These are GMPP rectangular port heads with only 400 miles. https://store.gmperformanceparts.com/store/SelectProd.do?prodId=7576&redir=true&man ufacturer=GM&category=Cylinder%20Heads&n ame=Bowtie%20Aluminum%20Cylinder%20Head% 20Assembly%20&model=<!--12363400-->
A lot of carbon buildup on the back of intake valves. No oil in intake and proper carb jetting. Where did the oil come from to build up excessive carbon in this short of time?
Would think these could be bolted on as is with such low mileage but with this carbon build up issue suspect guides or seals. Will disassemble, hot tank, inspect guide to stem clearance, Unshroud valves to increase chamber size to reduce compression, polish chambers to reduce hot spots and clean up casting flash, inspect and repair as needed seats and valves, set up installed spring height, check spring pressures.
The cam is a Comp Nostalgia plus ZL1 solid lifter cam. It is a tight lash cam with modern ramp rates.
Big Block Chevy 396-454 Mechanical Flat Tappet Camshaft

VALVE SETTING int. .012 Ex. .012
RPM
OPERATING 3500-7000
RANGE
DURATION int. 299 ex. 309
DURATION @ .050” int. 262 ex. 272
VALVE LIFT @ 1.7:1 int .582 ex. .622
LOBE SEP. ANGLE 110

MECH. FLAT TAPPET: Nostalgia Plus version of legendary ZL-1 camshaft. Modern lobe design makes this cam better than the original.

Using Crower solid lifters with EDM oiling holes.
Intake is a GM High Performance High Rise rectangular port intake 3933163
Looking to get compression down to 11.5 to 1. The modern head chamber will allow retarded timing and the aluminum heads will help with running pump gas. I am working full time so this is an after work/weekend project. Hoping to be done and dynoed in two to three weeks. Will post progress and pictures. Any feedback or input is appreciated.

 

Sorry to hear your misfortune but sounds about right for a fleabay short.

You have to now do what should have been done by the NHRA expert.

Take it apart, measure everything and machine it properly. Sounds like the owner doesn't want another boat anchor between the fenders so spend the money now and do it properly.

Whatever you can't do take it to a good machine shop. Like I posted in another thread I had to have brand new $700 4340 H beam rods resized because the journals weren't round, but the motor has 5k on it now it runs perfect

 

I will make sure it is right. As you said it has to come apart and check everything. Here is a photo of the torrington bearing surface and cam bearing. This was taken before unwrapping the plastic let alone opening the bottom end up. E-mailed the seller and he says the cam bearings don't need to be replaced and the bearing surface is fine. If this is fine to him I definetely have to tear this down. I just wonder what else was fine. Rod ends, piston pin bushings.You can see the angle of the bearing pad in the second picture. It is not perpendicular to the cam tunnel. This will sideload the torrington bearing leading to premature failure. What do you guys think of this machining? Would this be acceptable to you?

 

Don't know if you got that crank with it, but I wonder, it looks like either 100 or 200 grit sandpaper was used to finish the journals

Anyway it might not be as bad as first impressions. He took time put screens in etc. So it might end up being OK. Only problem is you need an expert machinist to check everything. I am pretty good but I know nothing compared to my buddy who has been building race motors for 30 years. He can pick things out I wouldn't even see. You will end up with a killer L88 I'm sure

 

It appears to be a worn out 4 bolt main block that was converted with some performance parts...L88`s have full floating pins and the 67 engine has 3/8 rod bolts, not 7/16. No bearing behind the cam gear either. That engine had the cam walking back and forth and the bearing was nothing more than a band aid....Non floating 7/16 rods were used in the Chevelles LS6 and the over the counter LS7...Im sure they milled the block down so they could easily pass the engine as a L88 short. BUT a 1967 L88 block would have the letters and numbers as example {TO 530 IT}....the *IT* confirms a legitimate L88 block..check the casting date and see whether its even a 67 ....

 

If he accepts that cam bearing surface as a good machined surface I would be real leary of the rest of the motor. That is one of the worst machining jobs on a block I have seen. I would inspect every piece and inch of that motor.

 

My opinion exactly

 

It is at Performance Motorsports now. Tim and I will do all the work there. One man shop with a parts cleaning guy. Tim builds big blocks almost exclusively. We have a couple truck pulling clubs around and all are built here. He also builds a lot of NHRA engines. He has been in business for over 20 years at the same location and is the best around. These are high RPM, highly loaded engines that run major HP. He is the best. I am the parts chaser and assembly guy. Tim will work with me on all measurements and do the necessary machining. Yes the crank looks rough but could be glare. Waiting to hear from Aldo on what he wants to do. Like you said I am pretty good but Tim can pick out issues I might miss. Two heads are better than one.

 

It is a 67 4 bolt block. Just talked to Aldo. The plan is to check bores to see if they are round and no taper without disassembling. That should tell us if it was freshly bored and honed or just honed and new rings. If it is a fresh overbore we are going to disassemble and check everything. If it is just a hone and ring and bearing job it is going back and start with new block and rotating assembly. Need a good base to start with. Numbers matching factory correct is not a real issue. Doubt it was a real L88 to begin with. They only made 20 1967 L88 cars plus whatever crate engines were made. Just looking for a close clone.

 

File a complaint right now with Ebay before 30 days, item was not as described. Usually Ebay is useless but if you paid with a credit card then you stand a good chance of getting your money back thru the CC company. Paypal is also a bunch of twits but they have a 30 day rule too, doesn't matter when you actually got it. I got something after 2 months and they told me it was over the 30 day period. I told them I didn't even have the item to complain about in 30 days, they said them's the rules and nothing they can do about it. I got my money back thru my Credit Card Company

Start over with a good block and rotating assembly probably won't cost any more than the NHRA special

 

Hey , I'm here...
the seller has already told me that if I don't like the block, I can send it back. regardless of the misunderstandings and different opinions about the block , he is a nice person.I also forwarded him the link to this thread. let's see if he subscribes...
I'm having 63mako checking the bores without disassembling because I would prefer to use the block if OK at the end.
I'm here at the window...
Aldo

 

Unwrapped plastic. Checked the 2 bores on the pistons at BDC. 4.315 4.314. Narrower at the top so some taper. Ball honed fnish on cylinder. Ship it back. Lets start over. This can be fixed but is not as we thought upon purchase. Sent E-mail.

 

What is the condition of elle88s block can it have one sleeve done
or does it really need an overbore in the other cylinders, worlds of
work could have been done to his block for the amount he is putting
into something else.

 

I would start with a good usable big block, can't be more that $200 then start machining and adding a quality rotating assembly no brainer here. Or you could get an aftermarket block that doesn't require as much work getting it ready, the cost difference isn't that much

 

The problem is finding someone on the other side of the pond familiar with american big blocks to do what he wants and shipping costs here and back. He also wants a spare for later. He wants a quality build, broken in with dyno sheets ready to drop in without having to deal with locals that have metric micrometers and no experience with holley carbs, flat tappet cams and distributor timing curves.

 

Ok.
it's late night here. think tomorrow on what new engine ...or restore mine.
I would like anyway to point out that the seller has been very polite and kind toward me . I think he was not totally aware of actual condition of the engine.please stop here any other thought about this specific block.
63mako, thanks.I'll write you.

go to sleep, not very happy indeed...

 

IMO - That is way to much cam for a tiny 427 ci. I go to all of these historic races and none of the big block Greenwood corvettes really run very well. I really don't think that 40 years ago that they actually understood cam science. It wasn't just chevy it was also ford through Ferrari. We have modernized all of our race motors and they make much more power that the originals that have nasty race idles

 

I didn't notice the cam, I agree way to big for the street, you asked for input we are giving it to you

 

You can go solid roller and big cubes and make a lot of power. Elle88 is looking for nostalgia. Has a 411 and a 4 speed in a 69 vette. This will not be the most powerful he can build but a short stroke big block with gears is a fun ride with a nasty idle. The big cam will allow high compression on pump fuel. Around 11.5 to 1. Trying to stay true to the L88 manners. Hey guys, I tried to talk him into a roller cam for a while now. This cam does have more modern ramps and expect good dyno numbers once it is in the powerband. Cam will be here tomorrow.

 

Yes I'm for nostalgia...
I know that a roller cam is the way to go, but my idea of my 69 car is "vintage". for the same reason I use 15" tires and not 17". It's a 69 car and when i drive it I would like to feel as I was in 1969...
If I wanted real performance , power and handling I would'nt stay with a C3, I would go for a Z06 ( drive one 1 month ago. great car).
I have now a genuine L88 cam with just 10:1 CR. I love it and not so bad manners at the end once everything is fine and tuned. with the 63mako build everything would be better.
I would really like to see the dyno numbers on my engine ( if me and 63mako will solve all the troubles we are having ).
look at this video and see the Dyno numbers

http://www.superchevy.com/multimedia...yno/index.html

it says L88 clone but 680hp from a L88? a bit too much...an L88 cam in it?