that was my first thought too. I thought the standard ratio for BB rockers was 1.7
Elle88 Build thread
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St. Jude Donor '08-'09
Had the 6223 forged crossdrilled crank ground .010 and .010. This was to clean up a couple journals that were a little out of round and a .0015 deflection. It was balanced then polished before install. Used Cleavite main bearings.
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St. Jude Donor '08-'09
The ZL1 nostalgia cam is a tight lash, solid flat tappet cam. We went with Crower EDM solid lifters for additional lubrication at the lobe to lifter interface and Comp roller tip 1.72 ratio rockers to maintain the stock valve covers and guarantee uniform lift.
Last edited by 63mako; Oct 29, 2009 at 05:24 PM.
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St. Jude Donor '08-'09
The heads were hot tanked, guides checked, spring pressures checked, valves and seats ground, clearanced and resurfaced.
Everything is now in the clean room ready for assembly. Will post additional photos as work progresses.
Everything is now in the clean room ready for assembly. Will post additional photos as work progresses.
Le Mans Master
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1.62 rockers, wow most big blocks use 1.7 rockers this must be one of those I like SB moments.
Last edited by Little Mouse; Oct 29, 2009 at 04:51 PM.
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St. Jude Donor '08-'09
Probably more like a senior moment. Typo. Corrected. 1.72. I do like small blocks. This build is 440 CI with a 3.76 stroke and a solid cam. It will like high RPM. Car has a 4.11, 4 speed. It will be old school..
Last edited by 63mako; Oct 29, 2009 at 05:38 PM.
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St. Jude Donor '08-'09
Progress on build. The crank is in. The cam is in. The pistons are fitted to the rods. One piston rod assembly is installed. Test fit head and the clearance is good.
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Man, haven't got to see *humps* that big in a long time on tops of pistons! Old School rocks!!
Make sure the lifters spin in their bores as you turn cam by hand. Usually 1/16-1/8 of a turn in the bore for each revolution of the cam. Hone any that don't really spin easily!
I'm sure you will....but clean those bores good of that light surface rust.
It's looking great.....there's going to be some thunder across the pond with this one!!
JIM
Make sure the lifters spin in their bores as you turn cam by hand. Usually 1/16-1/8 of a turn in the bore for each revolution of the cam. Hone any that don't really spin easily!
I'm sure you will....but clean those bores good of that light surface rust.
It's looking great.....there's going to be some thunder across the pond with this one!!
JIM
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From: Millington Illinois
St. Jude Donor '08-'09
Man, haven't got to see *humps* that big in a long time on tops of pistons! Old School rocks!!
Make sure the lifters spin in their bores as you turn cam by hand. Usually 1/16-1/8 of a turn in the bore for each revolution of the cam. Hone any that don't really spin easily!
I'm sure you will....but clean those bores good of that light surface rust.
It's looking great.....there's going to be some thunder across the pond with this one!!
JIM
Make sure the lifters spin in their bores as you turn cam by hand. Usually 1/16-1/8 of a turn in the bore for each revolution of the cam. Hone any that don't really spin easily!
I'm sure you will....but clean those bores good of that light surface rust.
It's looking great.....there's going to be some thunder across the pond with this one!!
JIM
Brad Penn break in oil going in it and an oil change to brad penn break in oil after the initall run in and dyno runs.
The domes are big. Short stroke, big chamber. When you start building those big CI strokers the dome really has to shrink to get to the same compression.
Last edited by 63mako; Oct 30, 2009 at 10:33 AM.
Drifting
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From: Springfield Illinois
Correct me if I am wrong, but that looks like a pre-'68 block.. Does the date code and everything match elle88's car? I'm glad to see he is going with the 7/16 dimple rods. It wouldn't hurt to check your clearance on rods and the block. I have a '66 block that I had to have notched for the dimple rods. It looks like you're building a nice piece of machinery. Keep up the good work!
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From: Millington Illinois
St. Jude Donor '08-'09
Correct me if I am wrong, but that looks like a pre-'68 block.. Does the date code and everything match elle88's car? I'm glad to see he is going with the 7/16 dimple rods. It wouldn't hurt to check your clearance on rods and the block. I have a '66 block that I had to have notched for the dimple rods. It looks like you're building a nice piece of machinery. Keep up the good work!
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St. Jude Donor '08-'09
Today's update.
Took these pictures at 3:00. The shortblock is assembled.
Head reassembly is progressing. The spring open, closed pressures and coil bind are being checked, installed spring height will be setup, springs shimmed and checked before each spring is installed. Heads, cleaned, clearanced, guides checked, Seats ground, valves cleaned and ground, retainers and locks cleaned and inspected, clearanced area polished up, milled ready to assemble.
Head reassembly is progressing. The spring open, closed pressures and coil bind are being checked, installed spring height will be setup, springs shimmed and checked before each spring is installed. Heads, cleaned, clearanced, guides checked, Seats ground, valves cleaned and ground, retainers and locks cleaned and inspected, clearanced area polished up, milled ready to assemble.
Last edited by 63mako; Oct 30, 2009 at 07:22 PM.
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From: Taylor Michigan
a quick and simple way to check stack height is to cut a short piece of brazing rod to the length of the desired height...put a valve, retainer with keepers and a soft spring to hold the valve closed and a dial indicator on the valve stem...put the correct length cut piece of brazing rod under the retainer and press down on the valve stem and measure the free distance...subtract the 2 measurements and thats how much you need in shims for that valve...ink stick the head with that number and just go to the next ...repeat it 15 more times and your ready to assemble the heads with the correct stack height...
I used a spring from a wheel cylinder kit
I used a spring from a wheel cylinder kit
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63mako,a pleasure to see the engine assembled...after so long time and troubles...
going back to the reasons and choices of this build:
a 69 block would have been more correct but we got this 67 block on ebay with already the gm crank and rods and pistons in. unfortunately the seller lied on its actual conditions...but has been a good deal anyway.
I just wanted an L88 era block , 67 to 69, and the idea of a 67 L88 clone car is in my mind...
I wanted as many as possible vintage GM parts in this build, no aftermarket :GM block, crank, rods, oil pan, damper , L88 pushrods, intake,timing cover,water pump...
we decided for aftermarket parts where troubles with reliability ( GMPP heads ) , availability (pistons ) , performance (comp cam ZL1 CAM)
in respect to the original L88 specs , we decided for a lower CR , but high anyway, 11:1 , to have the engine running on premium gas thanks to proper quench , cam overlap, 4:11 rear end, polished pistons, suitable timing...
as 63 mako says , i'm of the old school, I wanted an L88 , but with a bit less troubles...I think the dyno will show good hp numbers...and good street manners too due to the comp cam Zl1
going back to the reasons and choices of this build:
a 69 block would have been more correct but we got this 67 block on ebay with already the gm crank and rods and pistons in. unfortunately the seller lied on its actual conditions...but has been a good deal anyway.
I just wanted an L88 era block , 67 to 69, and the idea of a 67 L88 clone car is in my mind...
I wanted as many as possible vintage GM parts in this build, no aftermarket :GM block, crank, rods, oil pan, damper , L88 pushrods, intake,timing cover,water pump...
we decided for aftermarket parts where troubles with reliability ( GMPP heads ) , availability (pistons ) , performance (comp cam ZL1 CAM)
in respect to the original L88 specs , we decided for a lower CR , but high anyway, 11:1 , to have the engine running on premium gas thanks to proper quench , cam overlap, 4:11 rear end, polished pistons, suitable timing...
as 63 mako says , i'm of the old school, I wanted an L88 , but with a bit less troubles...I think the dyno will show good hp numbers...and good street manners too due to the comp cam Zl1
Last edited by elle88; Oct 31, 2009 at 03:01 AM.
Thread Starter
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Joined: May 2005
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From: Millington Illinois
St. Jude Donor '08-'09
63mako,a pleasure to see the engine assembled...after so long time and troubles...
going back to the reasons and choices of this build:
a 69 block would have been more correct but we got this 67 block on ebay with already the gm crank and rods and pistons in. unfortunately the seller lied on its actual conditions...but has been a good deal anyway.
I just wanted an L88 era block , 67 to 69, and the idea of a 67 L88 clone car is in my mind...
I wanted as many as possible vintage GM parts in this build, no aftermarket :GM block, crank, rods, oil pan, damper , L88 pushrods, intake,timing cover,water pump...
we decided for aftermarket parts where troubles with reliability ( GMPP heads ) , availability (pistons ) , performance (comp cam ZL1 CAM)
in respect to the original L88 specs , we decided for a lower CR , but high anyway, 11:1 , to have the engine running on premium gas thanks to proper quench , cam overlap, 4:11 rear end, polished pistons, suitable timing...
as 63 mako says , i'm of the old school, I wanted an L88 , but with a bit less troubles...I think the dyno will show good hp numbers...and good street manners too due to the comp cam Zl1
going back to the reasons and choices of this build:
a 69 block would have been more correct but we got this 67 block on ebay with already the gm crank and rods and pistons in. unfortunately the seller lied on its actual conditions...but has been a good deal anyway.
I just wanted an L88 era block , 67 to 69, and the idea of a 67 L88 clone car is in my mind...
I wanted as many as possible vintage GM parts in this build, no aftermarket :GM block, crank, rods, oil pan, damper , L88 pushrods, intake,timing cover,water pump...
we decided for aftermarket parts where troubles with reliability ( GMPP heads ) , availability (pistons ) , performance (comp cam ZL1 CAM)
in respect to the original L88 specs , we decided for a lower CR , but high anyway, 11:1 , to have the engine running on premium gas thanks to proper quench , cam overlap, 4:11 rear end, polished pistons, suitable timing...
as 63 mako says , i'm of the old school, I wanted an L88 , but with a bit less troubles...I think the dyno will show good hp numbers...and good street manners too due to the comp cam Zl1
Le Mans Master
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Elle, you're going to absolutly LOVE that engine. If I could run my LS-7 on pump gas I'd be way happy. It's a bit soft until it gets RPM up to 2800 and then it wakes UP!!
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And there's some more!! Just like the good ole days!!
Funny thing about compression...it doesn't always make huge difference in numbers on the dyno, but it always accelerates faster and makes MPH in high gear!!
Actually also helps street manners because vacuum will be higher too!
JIM
Funny thing about compression...it doesn't always make huge difference in numbers on the dyno, but it always accelerates faster and makes MPH in high gear!!
Actually also helps street manners because vacuum will be higher too!
JIM
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2006
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From: Gladstone MO
C3 of Year Finalist (appearance mods) 2019
And there's some more!! Just like the good ole days!!
Funny thing about compression...it doesn't always make huge difference in numbers on the dyno, but it always accelerates faster and makes MPH in high gear!!
Actually also helps street manners because vacuum will be higher too!
Makes the exhaust smell nice too. 110 Octane gas
JIM
Funny thing about compression...it doesn't always make huge difference in numbers on the dyno, but it always accelerates faster and makes MPH in high gear!!
Actually also helps street manners because vacuum will be higher too!
Makes the exhaust smell nice too. 110 Octane gas
JIM