OOps...forgot the most important part!!

Plus it really makes heads spin at the cruise in's because the exhaust *BARKS*!!!

JIM

 

The heads, New Melling oil pump, New stock pickup, NOS oil pan, NOS windage tray, torrington bearing, timing gears and chain, timing cover and lifters are installed. Lifters spin freely and also have a nice thick coat of lube on them. The original pushrods that were in the old motor don't give us correct geometry since the heads, cam, lifters, rockers, valve height are different so new pushrods are needed. The spring pressures were uniform. 120 on the seat 350 open @ .600. This is between the two recommended springs from comp but don't match the pressure listed by GM for these heads but should be perfect for this application. I don't know if the EDM holes in the lifters will show up on the pictures. The outer springs are installed. The inners will be installed after break in. Will also use 1.4 ratio riockers on break in. Want to give this cam every chance we can to break in well and live. The ramp rate and lift on this solid flat tappet is similar to a roller so extra precautions will be taken.

 

Are you going to run and tune this on a dyno it would be interesting to see what power this makes with better heads and improved cam over factory stuff.

 

Yes. This will be broken in and dyno tuned. Will post video and dyno sheets then. It will be ready to drop in and drive when Aldo gets it. We are using the original but rebuilt holley carb, original distributor, valve covers and the spark plug wires Aldo sent. All else is new or rebuilt like new. Hope the dist and wires are good. This is an L88 with a better cam, better heads and reduced compression. The cam is pretty big for the compression but it should be a beast once it is in the powerband. and will run on 93 octane.

 

Just some info I got off an old post. This ZL1 nostalgia plus cam is really radical. similar .050 numbers, way more lift, faster ramps.
Streetability may be an issue.

69 L88 cam specs are:

332/333 degrees @ .024/.026" lash point
354/360 degrees @ 0.0" lash
264/270 @ .050"
.536/.554" @ .024/.026" lash
.560/.580" gross lift @ 0.0" lash

 

Have you noticed the size of the intake runners they dwarf what is put on 427 SBs. You know I have noticed over the yrs that BBs with the even dumber 26 degree valve angle when I have just saw tests on them with over bores of .060 it seemed to help them a lot on power, it seems even with at least 4.250 bores from the factory the valve opening at such a bad angle the extra bore really helps them draw air around the outside edge of the intake valves really helps there power.I suspect with that .070 overbore better heads, better modern ramp cam even with the compression a little down its going to make good power after you get it tuned right. 7600 rpm here you go

 

Are you going to block the heat crossover in the heads or run it as is?

I always like looking down the intake ports on the rectangle port heads. With that L-88 cam, it looks like you could set a dime on edge with the valve open and it'd roll right into the cylinder.

 

the heat crossover is already blocked off in the head itself, if I remember...
great to see the engine almost complete.
I'm a bit concerned with the fast ramps of the cam and possible wear at cam lobes...I will use Amsoil 10w40 as suggested by 63mako. very hi ZDDP content.
btw I expect my L88 engine to be a low mileage motor :just 1 ride a week or so...so , after 1 year it will be a low mileage motor anyway , with little cam wear...

 

Hi Aldo, been following the progress on your new power plant, hate to pull up to you at a light! That is going to be a beast, not sure how street-able it will be but you'll blow the doors off most everyone!. Enjoy. PG.

 

Crossover is blocked. No choke setup on the carb. Will use Brad Penn oil for break in and first oil change. Amsoil AMO 10W-40 after rings are well seated and cam is run in and well broken in. Here is the intake as bought. It has now been hot tanked and bead blasted. It is a GM high rise rectangular port intake. Still sold by GM after 40 years.

 

No roller rockers? I would think the $350 for a set of Comp Pro Magnums would be well spent$$$ for this build.

 

yes , no roller rockers...i'm already far over the initial budget! it started as an easy thing with a short block ready to fit , but...we did everything again.rollers are an easy upgrade that i can do later by myself (but they don't fit under the stock rocker covers i have)

btw, this engine is yes built for hi rpm , but as 63mako knows, i don't expect to use it often at those hi rpm which is capable. I just wanted an l88 that could run at 7000 rpm to safely use at 4000-5000rpm. having a 4.11 rear end , the rpm are always on the hi side ...

63mako, you know I'm not a cam expert , but aside to the fast ramps design , i don't see big difference in the gross lift between the oem Zl1 cam and the compcam. am I wrong?0.560/0.600 for the 69 zl1 , 0.581/0.622 but slightly less duration the compcam

about streetability of this engine...my former one was another 427 with an l88 cam , i'm used to the difficult low speed operation and hard starts.i like it.it's an old race engine and behaves exhactly like it should

 

The duration @ .050 are similar. Lift is higher. The biggest difference is the advertised duration. The oem was over 350 on both sides. This one is not listed but is under 325. Way faster ramp. This will give you better vacuum, more power, better manners and low speed driveability. As we have discussed the down side is longevity and everything relating to the valvetrain needs to be perfectly matched, properly broken in and correct. If your original cam was a true OEM L88 this should be better than that as far as streetability. If you are used to it and that is what you want it is all good!. Here are a few pictures. Motor is assembled. except carb, dist, pushrods and balancer. The damper just came off the balancing machine. Aldo, make sure your flywheel is neutral balanced. The OEM balancer needed a little material removed to be right. Factory is not always real good. Might be a good time for a clutch upgrade and flywheel resurface as well. The pushrod length checker came up with both intake and exhaust pushrods needing to be + .200. You can see the nice centered pattern on the two valves to the left in the photo. The pushrods will be in this afternoon. Paint today. Hoping to be done very soon.

 

I've bee following along, and just wanted to share that I like Comp's nostalgia cams very much for the kind of build you're doing.


TSW

 

Hi Charlie. Thought you were probably lurking. Thanks for the DCR help on this via PM. It is a little lower than I would like but have to stay pump gas compatable and the cam choice was locked in so we did the best possible with the limited piston selection available. Tightened quench up to .045 too. Pretty solid build. I can't wait to see dyno numbers. Crossing my fingers for 600 HP but looking at actual ZL1 builds with more compression they are coming in lower than that. The head flow and cam might help. We will see.

 

63mako,
i hope a round 600hp too...but carb is 800cfm and dual plane intake. i supplied you some carb spacers, use them for dyno pull to increase the relief between the 2 planes of the intake, if you like.
btw seen 680hp on an L88 build.i posted the video a while ago

http://www.superchevy.com/multimedia...yno/index.html


I have no way to rebalance my flywheel.cross my fingers. the clutch is already an Hays heavy duty.non throubles in my past rides and it has few miles on it

 

Cool video! Listen to that thing idle.
I went frame by frame at the end of the clip. It had a little blip at the end of the run. Power was pulling uniformly up to 6760 RPM. At that RPM Torque was 484, HP was 620. Then at 6860 RPM just before shutdown it showed 518 torque and 676.2 HP. This was just for a split second. Gained 34 ft lbs and 56 HP in 100 RPM. This very well could be a dyno error. This thing looked to still be pulling when it shut down ai 7000 RPM though.
Do you have a rev limiter? Did you have the carb spacers on the car before? If so how thick do you have room for? Would like to send it as you will have it setup in the car so you don't have to disassemble anything once you get it. Bolt it in and go.

 

that engine on the dyno seems to have my same GMPP heads.
Probably I understood also in which Vette has been dropped. A stock eliminator...it should be .60 or .125 over, can't remember.

no rev limiter at the moment. next order.Iìll not floor the gas pedal in the early days....

as spacers under the carb I had a rubber spacer 1cm thick and the heat shield-supplied everything with the carb

 

Hi

elle88, I suggest that you try to find a place to balance the flywheel.

When I installed my T56, I turned down the glasure of the flywheel for the new clutch and got it rebalanced.

The shop told me that they hardly touched the surface to remove the glasure, they sayed no way that this was the reason for so much material removal requirement fore the balancing.

The arrows point at the 3 holes that had to be drilled for neutral balance.

Rgds. Günther

 

You should have someplace local to do a resurface and neutral balance. Should be cheap also.