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Old Sep 22, 2009 | 01:12 PM
  #41  
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Ok I got everything done new bushings shocks ball joint I mean Everything.. Car drives good but I took it to a alignment shop and they said I have play from side to side in my new ball joints.. So I put another set in and wouldn't you know it still play in the ball joint.. I can feel it under a high speed.. Is the play normal? There is no up and down play just side to side.. ??? What the heck???
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Old Sep 22, 2009 | 08:16 PM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by switzerhenry
I got my Vette out another mechanic and he noticed the valve on the center link has a bit of play in it.. It is a new valve and I don't know if there is supposed to be a touch of play in it or not.. Does anyone know how much play should be in the valve connected to the Pittman arm?
The ball stud on the PS control valve (where it connects to the Pittman arm) will move left or right 1/8 of an inch. This is normal. Are you sure that the alignment shop is not seeing this movement and thinking that your ball joints are bad? PG.
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Old Sep 23, 2009 | 08:12 AM
  #43  
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Default Balljoint play

I got under the car with him and he moved each balljoint 3/16" with a pry bar.. have no idea how a company like napa can make such junk!! This is the third set I put in with the same problem!!
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Old Sep 23, 2009 | 10:15 AM
  #44  
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What brand did you buy? From all the discussion on this Forum about bad ball joints, it would appear that MOOG joints are the only ones that can be "trusted" as a quality part. Having to change ball joints is bad enough; having to change them because they are "junk" is even worse! Call the manager at NAPA and relay the history of your problem. Either the ball joints are junk or you are not getting them installed properly (bolted joints not tight?).
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Old Sep 23, 2009 | 10:57 AM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by CCrane72
Did you replace your shocks? I had darting problems with my big block until I got new ones.

The other thing I had to do was tighten the steering column at the steering box because it was too loose. You could move the steering wheel and not the wheels.

cc
Bad shock on rear will do that
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Old Sep 23, 2009 | 11:25 AM
  #46  
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Originally Posted by 7T1vette
What brand did you buy? From all the discussion on this Forum about bad ball joints, it would appear that MOOG joints are the only ones that can be "trusted" as a quality part. Having to change ball joints is bad enough; having to change them because they are "junk" is even worse! Call the manager at NAPA and relay the history of your problem. Either the ball joints are junk or you are not getting them installed properly (bolted joints not tight?).
I bought Napa's top line Allied.. (Napa Chassi) LIfe time warranty.. I had a master Mechanic install the second set cuz I though just maybe I put them in wrong.. (Kinda hard to mess up a bolted in Ball Joint!!) and he even said mine were installed right and he put the new set in and the mechanic that aligned it said they were in right.. He is a 5 star Gm Mechanic so I assume he knows what he is doing. Still Play side to side with no up and down play.. I just bought moog and am returning the napa, what a waste of time the napa were..
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Old Sep 23, 2009 | 07:32 PM
  #47  
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You have all the evidence you need to make a case with NAPA to recover your labor expenses. You just need to get the repair and alignment guys to complete an "Affidavit" and document the fault was in the NAPA joints. If you've already returned the joints to NAPA, just get some signed scrap of paper [from the person you returned them to] showing he received them from you.
Hopefully, you can send the NAPA 'brass' a registered letter stating your case and they will come through with a settlement for your labor losses. Send only copies of your documentation to them; keep the originals yourself. If they don't "make it right", that same documentation should go to an attorney and a suit should be filed. The only way to change "bad" behavior these days is to hit them where it hurts...the wallet.
NAPA has been one of the better parts suppliers, as far as I am concerned; but with all the low-priced junk the other vendors sell, maybe they have decided to do the same thing. Your situation is very disturbing...and we will probably hear more stories like it in the near future.
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Old Sep 24, 2009 | 09:59 AM
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I hope so cuz I am having a Hell of a time withthe labor claim on it now.. they are trying to discourage me with paperwork and all that crap to make me think its not worth it!!!!! I used to work for napa so I know the drill and all their secrets don't let them fool you.. H.
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Old Sep 24, 2009 | 03:17 PM
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If they're giving you the "run-around", you have no viable option but to file a lawsuit. You can file a Small-claims suit locally (don't know what the limit of judgement is there) or you can hand it off to an attorney. If you do the latter, and you win the case, the attorney's fees should be included in the suit and the settlement. If your NAPA store gets served with a suit, they will likely settle with you to limit the damages. If you have the affidavits signed & notarized, I don't see how you can lose.
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Old Sep 29, 2009 | 10:32 AM
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Ok I put a set of MOOG joints in yesterday afternoon.. Guess What!!!! PLAY!!!!! Can anyone check their ball joints and let me know if this is normal???
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Old Sep 29, 2009 | 10:57 AM
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I have no idea how you [or your "mechanic"] are checking 'play', but you are obviously doing something wrong. Please describe the procedure you are using so we can advise you better. Where are you applying force? ...in which directions? ...what are your criteria for 'play' in the system?
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Old Sep 29, 2009 | 12:28 PM
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Well put a pry bar under the tire on the lignment rack with the car slighly up in the air and there is almost an 1/8 " of play up and down and side to side Just in the lower joints
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Old Sep 29, 2009 | 12:39 PM
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That sounds more like bearings than ball joints. Ball joint wear is visible from the outside. Since you just put new ones on there shouldn't be any play in them.

Did someone actually observe them moving when you put the lever under the tires?

Also, if you did observe them moving, is there any chance that whoever removed the original ball joints messed up the holes and unintentionally enlarged them?

cc
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Old Oct 1, 2009 | 11:42 AM
  #54  
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Yes they observed the ball joints movement.. the bearings are tight.. I am at a loss.. Don't know how 3 sets of ball joints are bad.. The holes on the control arms aren't oblonged either.. I had them check for that the last time...
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Old Apr 7, 2010 | 01:16 PM
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I finally Got it!!!!!!!!!!!!!! It was the stupid *** Shims between the bearings in the trailing arms.. I put thousands into this cars suspension and put in a rack n pinion and it turned out to be nothing but the shims.. Maybe I should shoot my mechanic... lol joking....
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Old Apr 7, 2010 | 01:22 PM
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no more wandering!!!! whoo hoo!!!
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Old Apr 7, 2010 | 02:50 PM
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Originally Posted by switzerhenry
Well put whole new poly front end in, even a new rag joint everything is tight.. Still wanders and veeres to the right... When I really tromp on it, it wants to go right really hard and is all over the place... I am moving on to the rear I am crossing my fingers..
This "crabbing" at throttle on/off is a classic symptom of worn REAR suspension bushings. In particular, the trailing arm bushings are likely the culprit.

What you're feeling is a massive toe change in the rear tires. And the primary components which resists that toe change are the trailing arm bushings.
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Old Apr 7, 2010 | 02:51 PM
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Originally Posted by switzerhenry
I finally Got it!!!!!!!!!!!!!! It was the stupid *** Shims between the bearings in the trailing arms.. I put thousands into this cars suspension and put in a rack n pinion and it turned out to be nothing but the shims.. Maybe I should shoot my mechanic... lol joking....
You had the car aligned, and they didn't even put the TA shims in?

Ok ... seriously ... get your fuggin' money back, and never go to that shop again.
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Old Apr 7, 2010 | 02:52 PM
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Originally Posted by switzerhenry
I finally Got it!!!!!!!!!!!!!! It was the stupid *** Shims between the bearings in the trailing arms.. I put thousands into this cars suspension and put in a rack n pinion and it turned out to be nothing but the shims.. Maybe I should shoot my mechanic... lol joking....
OK, what was wrong with the shims?
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Old Apr 7, 2010 | 03:44 PM
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I'm glad you found the problem. I was reading through all the posts and was going to suggest the "A" arms on the front. I pulled a vette out of storage and was driving it home. Something wasn't right and it was pulling to the left and darting right. I pulled over and then BANG! Something came loose and the car pulled real hard to the left. I was just pulled off the ramp from highway speeds. I limped back into a burger joint and found the upper "A" arm bolts were loose and one missing. Thank God I had the "feeling" and was slowed down to 25 mph first. I had just left an alignment shop and they gave me the OK to drive it and told me it was just worn. Talk about wanting to bitch slap a mechanic.

Last edited by builder; Apr 8, 2010 at 09:13 AM.
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