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Just swapped out the 6 or 7" bolts for 10" bolts. I am running a VBP composite mono and 18" rims on the back. It seems pretty tight to me, but the geometry looks good. Thoughts?
Well I'm not quite ready to jump on the GM-is-perfect-lets-not-change-anything bandwagon but it definitely is too close. After a trip around the block the car settled more and it's too low anyway. Going to have to crank them up at least an inch. I can't imagine these 10" bolts working for anyone...I think 9" is the max, and that might be a stretch.
Consider a flat rear tire... sidewall ripping at the nut, then the nut possibly making contact with the road surface. Not a scenario for me, thanks! I'd raise the ride height and use a bolt which allows rim contact without bolt contact.
I have run the spring below for about 10 years with no rubbing issues. You should be good to go. Yes, it is one of the dreaded TRW springs with too much arch and I am going to change it one of these days.
If you think this is close You should see what happens when You use off set Tailing Arms and then offset the Wheel inward to gain clearnce with wider Wheels. The spring bolt will end up up inside the Wheel and you will have to use the Bolts upside down. In this sinario the Larger the rim diameter the more clearnce you will have. The 10 inch Bolts are not intended to be used at the full 10". Once You have Your ride Height set just Cut the Bolts off leaving enough for minor ajustments. The Full 10" pretty much covers any Spring Wheel or look ajustmet that any one could dreamup.
Thats what I have heard also. Many others with the 10inch bolts cut them to 9 inch. I got the 8 inch bolts and they are not quite long enough to get the ride height I want. I would like about another inch lower, but I was told with the stock 15 inch rims since their is more rubber, the washer may come very close to cutting into them. Guess it also depends on the series (60, 50, 45 40) of tire. Post some pics on once you get it adjusted. Also what size tire and series tire do you have on those 18's?
Good luck.
10 inch bolts, cut down to 9 inch with new 9 leaf steel spring from Mid America with 255-60-R15s on 15x8 with 3.75 backspacing. The trick here is my backspacing give me the extra clearance thats gets me over the hump with a good 1/2 inch clearance.
I have kept an eye on the inside sidewall for any contact. So far so good.
Alan, I think if anything the half-shaft being straight is optimal. However it did settle a bit, which made the tire higher than the diff. I've got it cranked up to about 2" of threads showing and I think it is manageable now. I hope so. I've had so many problems the last thing I need is the spring shredding the rim or tire.
Hi ddn,
That's what I was getting at.
I think in a ideal condition the half-shaft should be parallel with the ground. I don't know what the results of it being sloped one way or the other may be.
Perhaps someone will speak up.
Regards,
Alan
Once upon a time Chevy published a book call Chevrolet Power. In it they cover, amoung other things, setting up the proper rear ride height when switching to longer bolts. The difference measuring from the ground to where the strut rod attaches to the spindle and where it attaches to the camber adjustment braket is supposed to be 1 1/4". On my set up this placed the halfshafts just about parrallel to the ground.
Pretty sure the stock spring bolts are 6.5 inches long. And I also found out that for every inch longer the bolt is its not neccessarily a 1:1 adjustment. I think I cranked my down another 1.5 inches but it barely lowered it the rearend 1 inch. I plan on going to a 10 inch bolt, but I want to get new wheels/tires first.
DDN, looks like you got half foot of space in the above pic. How is it sitting now? How many inches of space do you have between the fender lip and the top of the tire?
The straighter the half shafts are, the less the U-joints have to work which minimizes the inherent sinusoidal vibration from non-constant velocity joints.
To the OP. It looks like the end of the spring is inside of the wheel. If the washer size is reduced, you should have no problem, and if you raise the rear a bit more, even better. Not sure about the VBP spring, but the TRW is VERY easy to shorten. Take an inch off each end and no worries.
To the OP. It looks like the end of the spring is inside of the wheel. If the washer size is reduced, you should have no problem, and if you raise the rear a bit more, even better. Not sure about the VBP spring, but the TRW is VERY easy to shorten. Take an inch off each end and no worries.
I shortened the end of my TRW spring and ground off the washer till I got clearance on my 17" wheels. Been racing it that way for years, no problems.