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Old Aug 25, 2009 | 10:14 PM
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Default starter wire help...

Switching from old starter to Hi Torque starter:

Old solenoid has two small 18 ga wires, one colored, one black..new starter has only one connection for the 18 ga wire...I assume the colored wire goes to the solenoid, what about the black wire?

Also, I seem to have read some place that there is a concern of sorts if one has TI ignition and that precautions should be made else the Ti coil may get damaged using the new starters...any substance to this?
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Old Aug 25, 2009 | 10:21 PM
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You should have a purple that goes to the S terminal.
The black should be the ground for the wipers and blower.
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Old Aug 25, 2009 | 10:25 PM
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I thought you should have the yellow also but wanted to check the diagram.
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Old Aug 26, 2009 | 02:31 AM
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Yellow and black go to the solenoid...so if I use the new hi torque starter, I have to ground the black somehow, else the wipers won't work...
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Old Aug 26, 2009 | 05:42 AM
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From that diagram, there is only one terminal required on the solenoid for the ignition wire for starting the car (the "S" terminal). For the tranistorized ignition, the "R" terminal is not used so you don't need it anyway. The critical issue is that your TI system must retain the resistance wire going to the positive terminal on the coil [see Note: 1 in the diagram]. It is built into the wiring harness...not a separate resistor like earlier GM cars.
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Old Aug 26, 2009 | 08:11 AM
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Originally Posted by GDaina
Yellow and black go to the solenoid...so if I use the new hi torque starter, I have to ground the black somehow, else the wipers won't work...
George on your old starter providing your wires are factory colors and havent been spliced with other colors should be connected like this.

large lug of the solenoid-- pos battery cable and 12 red with large eyelet terminal (connected to fusible link)
S term on solenoid-- 12 purple small eyelet term
R term on solenoid-- 20 yellow small eyelet term
starter mounting bolt-- 14 black LARGE eyelet terminal (wiper and blower ground)(optional mounting point is a bellhousing bolt)

NEW STARTER

large lug of solenoid-- pos battery cable and 12 red with large eyelet terminal (connected to fusible link)
S term on solenoid-- 12 purple small eyelet term
"No" R -- see below
starter mounting bolt-- 14 black Large eyelet terminal (wiper and blower ground)(optional mounting point is a bellhousing bolt)

The yellow R term wire is the wire that has no terminal on your new starter. I will see if I can find the thread but Summit supposedly has a special diode type wiring harness for this yellow wire. Some say it doesn't need to be used anymore. I think it is covered in the thread I'm referring to.If not then I'm sure a PM to 69427 will clear up what should be done with the yellow wire.

EDIT-- George- it looks like in this thread DR L88 doesn't come back to let us know how he resolved this issue.
It looks like to me the special diode wire from Powermaster connects to the other large lug on the starter and it feeds the yellow wire during cranking. This other large lug only receives power during cranking just like the old starter R terminal.
Here is the thread but it involves an aftermarket ignition system so I don't think this will help you probably just make it more confusing.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-t...l-wizards.html

Bottom line is if you do need the yellow to have power during cranking to start the engine you will need a diode wire type setup so that the yellow wire will not be grounded after the starter is disengaged. I would think you could also T in on the purple wire but again the diode would be necessary or the yellow would go to ground on release of the key. That was the beauty of the R terminal it gave 12 volts on cranking but upon release it completely isolated itself (and the yellow)from ground.

Last edited by ...Roger...; Aug 26, 2009 at 08:58 AM.
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Old Aug 26, 2009 | 08:34 AM
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Originally Posted by 7T1vette
From that diagram, there is only one terminal required on the solenoid for the ignition wire for starting the car (the "S" terminal). For the tranistorized ignition, the "R" terminal is not used so you don't need it anyway. The critical issue is that your TI system must retain the resistance wire going to the positive terminal on the coil [see Note: 1 in the diagram]. It is built into the wiring harness...not a separate resistor like earlier GM cars.
In the diagram they didn't put in the S terminal. A little confusing,maybe I can add it to clear up the confusion. The "paint" program is not my friend !!!
This is my attempt at putting in the S terminal and the purple wire.

Last edited by ...Roger...; Aug 26, 2009 at 05:30 PM.
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Old Aug 26, 2009 | 02:16 PM
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Default Resistor bypass wiring.

Originally Posted by GDaina
Switching from old starter to Hi Torque starter:

Old solenoid has two small 18 ga wires, one colored, one black..new starter has only one connection for the 18 ga wire...I assume the colored wire goes to the solenoid, what about the black wire?

Also, I seem to have read some place that there is a concern of sorts if one has TI ignition and that precautions should be made else the Ti coil may get damaged using the new starters...any substance to this?
The older points ignitions had a current limiting resistor in the coil power wire - protectes the coil from overheating during normal operation. They also had an extra wire to the starter solenoid to the coil that bypasses the current limiting resistor on ignition switch start - gives the coil extra voltage for start only.

Hope this is what your looking for George,
cardo0
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Old Aug 26, 2009 | 04:55 PM
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Although the diagram [above] does not show both "R" & "S" connections at the starter solenoid, there is a note about the "R" terminal which I missed when I first reviewed it. I had thought that the TI system used the same "R" wire (with internal resistance built in), but did not see the terminal shown on that drawing. I stand corrected and apologize for missing that item. You will need to convert to a proper solenoid for your application; or run a 12vdc line directly to the coil and terminate it with the zener diode that is mentioned (which will reduce the voltage to 7-9 volts); or insert a normally-open relay which is powered by your ignition 'start' switch feed and which switches that + coil line through to the + side of the coil. Any of those methods will complete the circuit as required.
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Old Aug 27, 2009 | 11:10 AM
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Thanks for all the replies...

I crawled under the car and to verify wire colors. What I thought was a black wire, is purple, and I do have the yellow.
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Old Aug 27, 2009 | 11:18 AM
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Originally Posted by GDaina
Thanks for all the replies...

I crawled under the car and to verify wire colors. What I thought was a black wire, is purple, and I do have the yellow.
OK so what are you going to do with the yellow wire now that your new starter doesn't have a terminal for it ?
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Old Aug 27, 2009 | 12:03 PM
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good question...still have the old starter in, I will think of something.
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Old Aug 27, 2009 | 12:57 PM
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Originally Posted by GDaina
good question...still have the old starter in, I will think of something.
Use the purple to control a shunt relay for full 12v to the yellow during start mode.
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Old Aug 27, 2009 | 01:03 PM
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Originally Posted by FB007
Use the purple to control a shunt relay for full 12v to the yellow during start mode.
FB007 what's the amperage that is required by the coil (through the yellow)during cranking ?
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Old Aug 27, 2009 | 01:56 PM
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Originally Posted by DWncchs
FB007 what's the amperage that is required by the coil (through the yellow)during cranking ?
4-5 amperes. If you have an external ballast resistor, you can just extend leads from each side of it to the coil. That simple.
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Old Aug 27, 2009 | 02:35 PM
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Originally Posted by FB007
4-5 amperes. If you have an external ballast resistor, you can just extend leads from each side of it to the coil. That simple.
Thanks for the amp rating,but you lost me on extending the leads.You mean you extend the leads to solve the no R terminal on solenoid problem ? Probably the way I ask. The reason I ask about the amp rating was I was going to ask another question about the no R terminal issue.
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Old Aug 27, 2009 | 05:21 PM
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Use a lead from the purple "S" terminal to control a small relay to feed the 18 yellow (to the pink) the 12v for start. That's all the "R" terminal does anyway, just that's it's internal in the solenoid. Just add a little 20a relay with the control side off the "S" and you're done.
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Old Aug 27, 2009 | 06:59 PM
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Originally Posted by TimAT
Use a lead from the purple "S" terminal to control a small relay to feed the 18 yellow (to the pink) the 12v for start. That's all the "R" terminal does anyway, just that's it's internal in the solenoid. Just add a little 20a relay with the control side off the "S" and you're done.
Could you put both purple and yellow on the S terminal and put a diode in the yellow ?
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Old Aug 27, 2009 | 07:45 PM
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Nope. Not and get the same electrical circuit behavior.
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Old Aug 29, 2009 | 08:55 AM
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Default Don't need the resistor bypass with a "mini".

Originally Posted by GDaina
Thanks for all the replies...

I crawled under the car and to verify wire colors. What I thought was a black wire, is purple, and I do have the yellow.
Originally Posted by GDaina
good question...still have the old starter in, I will think of something.


You won't need the resistor bypass wire of course. I would just verify the which wire goes to the coil (yellow) and cut off the terminal lug then tape the wire back. U won't need the resistor bypass with the mini starter.

Good luck,
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