what can be done ?
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 318
Likes: 3
From: kuwait
what can be done ?
in process of changing half shaft u joing
one bolt broke into the yoke while trying to open it
did anyone encounter this ,, how did u solve it ??
what iam thinking is to try drill the hole
any Suggestions ??
got one pic but sorry its not that clear
one bolt broke into the yoke while trying to open it
did anyone encounter this ,, how did u solve it ??
what iam thinking is to try drill the hole
any Suggestions ??
got one pic but sorry its not that clear
Melting Slicks
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 3,050
Likes: 124
From: Wichita KS
How much (if any) does the bolt stick out from the surface?
Did the bolt turn at all before it snapped or is it rusted solid?
Do you have access to a MIG welder?
Did the bolt turn at all before it snapped or is it rusted solid?
Do you have access to a MIG welder?
Last edited by mapman; Aug 25, 2009 at 10:46 PM.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 318
Likes: 3
From: kuwait
thats what iam going to do ,,thanks bernie & yes its already removed
--
thanks mapman
the bolt did not turn at all tryed w40 ,,nothing sticking out but u can feel by finger
& idont have mig welder
--
any more Suggestions ??
--
thanks mapman
the bolt did not turn at all tryed w40 ,,nothing sticking out but u can feel by finger
& idont have mig welder
--
any more Suggestions ??
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 7,123
Likes: 433
From: Gladstone MO
C3 of Year Finalist (appearance mods) 2019
The #1 priority is drilling both straight and in the center. If you miss either one of those you may kill the threads in the yoke. WD-40 is not the best penetrating oil either. get a can of Kroil or something like that. My personal favorite is Hoppe's #9 Gun solvent, but I suspect that you will have a tough time finding that where you are. Any application of heat will kill the axle seal, so that hnders your options.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 3,050
Likes: 124
From: Wichita KS
By REMOVED do you mean it is off the car?
If the differential can be taken to a machine shop, they have a way to remove the bolt with an electric arc. I had a bolt broken off that held the rear spring to the differential. The machine shop removed the bolt with an electric arc without a problem.
The problem with trying to drill it out is getting the hole started in the center of the bolt. Then if you do get a hole drilled, the removal taps are BRITTLE and often snap off - leaving you worse off than before.
If the differential carrier is still on the car, and you cannot get it to a machine shop, I would have someone mig weld a nut on the bolt and try to remove it with a wrench. You have to be careful of course and NOT weld the nut to the yoke.
http://www.electroarc.com/?gclid=CNX...FdZM5Qod2Sf-oA
As stated above, there are better rust penetrants than WD40, I use Kroil or PB Blaster as a second choice.
If the differential can be taken to a machine shop, they have a way to remove the bolt with an electric arc. I had a bolt broken off that held the rear spring to the differential. The machine shop removed the bolt with an electric arc without a problem.
The problem with trying to drill it out is getting the hole started in the center of the bolt. Then if you do get a hole drilled, the removal taps are BRITTLE and often snap off - leaving you worse off than before.
If the differential carrier is still on the car, and you cannot get it to a machine shop, I would have someone mig weld a nut on the bolt and try to remove it with a wrench. You have to be careful of course and NOT weld the nut to the yoke.
http://www.electroarc.com/?gclid=CNX...FdZM5Qod2Sf-oA
As stated above, there are better rust penetrants than WD40, I use Kroil or PB Blaster as a second choice.
Last edited by mapman; Aug 26, 2009 at 12:35 AM.
Team Owner
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 37,637
Likes: 3,116
From: Crossville TN
WD-40 is not a rust remover/penetrant product (or, at least, not a good one). Next time, buy a product that is good at doing that work (ie, PB Blaster, etc.) and let it work for several hours before trying to get a rusted bolt to break loose. You are going to encounter lots of 'frozen' bolts in years ahead and should be using a successful approach.
You can drill through the center of the bolt shank...if you don't hit/damage the threads in the process. Then do as listed above to soak/loosen the rusty threads. Use the largest size E-Z-Out that will fit and it should break loose. If it's still binding up, use a small hammer to rap on the outside surface of the yoke, near that area, while you apply load to twist the E-Z-Out. The last resort would be to arc-weld a piece of drill-rod to the bolt shank in hopes that you could get better leverage/force to back out that stub.
You can drill through the center of the bolt shank...if you don't hit/damage the threads in the process. Then do as listed above to soak/loosen the rusty threads. Use the largest size E-Z-Out that will fit and it should break loose. If it's still binding up, use a small hammer to rap on the outside surface of the yoke, near that area, while you apply load to twist the E-Z-Out. The last resort would be to arc-weld a piece of drill-rod to the bolt shank in hopes that you could get better leverage/force to back out that stub.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 318
Likes: 3
From: kuwait
thank God ,,,solved by itself
just about to but the drill & touched the bolt in side the hole and it turn so easly by fingers took it out ,,installed the righ half shaft but missing one bolt wl Continue
2moro with other half ,,,thanks
just about to but the drill & touched the bolt in side the hole and it turn so easly by fingers took it out ,,installed the righ half shaft but missing one bolt wl Continue
2moro with other half ,,,thanks
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