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A buddy came by tonight and helped me finish tearing down my motor. When we got done, he said there was no way I'd get all that back together! I didn't tell him that you all were helping me.
Here is where I'm at. I'll post some more pics and questions tomorrow. Let the fun begin!!!
I haven't ordered any parts yet, but I'm going with the Brodix IK200 and Lunati cam. I'm in the process of measuring how far the pistons sit in the bore at TDC to select the head gasket and then I'll be ready to order everything.
If anyone is interested how I made my parts selection, here is that thread: Need help picking topend
Here are some pics of the valves and pistons. Anything look out of the ordinary?
the mid 2 intake valves look um kinda like they were as hot as the exhaust valves. im not sure if thats normal but its kinda odd that they are different from the outer two cylinders.
the mid 2 intake valves look um kinda like they were as hot as the exhaust valves. im not sure if thats normal but its kinda odd that they are different from the outer two cylinders.
I thought the exact same thing. This is the first set of heads that I've pulled in 30 years, so haven't seen enough to know if that's typical or a problem. Anyone know what might cause this and if I should be concerned?
I also noticed that the cylinder holes on the head gasket are not perfectly round. Is that typical or the result of someone not following the correct torque pattern/process?
Last edited by redman76; Aug 27, 2009 at 01:52 PM.
The bottom end is stock? looks stock. Be sure to chase the treads in the block with a thread chaser (not a tap).
On reviewing my pictures, the pistons you have do NOT look like the stock L48 pistons i have. Notice the beveled edges and pressed in center on mine, where as yours are flat accross.
Last edited by RunningMan373; Aug 27, 2009 at 05:03 PM.
Motor is not original and I don't know the history on it; I've been using the L48 designation loosely since that is how it started out. It runs great and screams, but no power. Little Mouse looked at my compression test #s and thought they were high for stock L-48. Thanks for the piston comparison . . . it really helps as I plunge into the unknown.
Here are some shots of me measuring the piston depth. I'm not sure if I'm doing this correct or not, so if someone can step in and help me out.
I do have a couple of questions about the process.
(1) Should I clean the deck before making measurements?
(2) I get different reading from the left side of the pistion to the right side. Is this typical or a problem? Should I just measure as near the center as possible and not on the sides?
(3) Does my dial indicator bridge positioning look about right?
In this first shot, I set the dial indicator on the deck and set dial to 0:
In this shot, I'm measuring the pistion at TDC and get a reading of 47. Since the needle is revolving counterclockwise, I substract from 100 to get actual reading of 53. That's .053 - correct?
53 sounds wrong. Apparently, stock is 25 mils in the hole, and according to what i read in your previous thread, they should be either stock- 25 mills or 0 mills. you should probably have someone rotate the motor *just* back and forth around TDC the get the lowest reading. the mark won't be *perfect* on the balancer to marker, mechanically. meter reading -,, CCW would be the feeler moving out, so that sounds correct, at least in the direction and reading direction, but 53 mills sounds way to high.
Last edited by RunningMan373; Aug 27, 2009 at 06:10 PM.
2. you should definitely clean the deck, razor blade that entire area smooth
3. I would read at a couple of points on the pistons, mainly looking near the center. As long as the variance is just a couple of thousandths, i wouldn't be to concerned about it, there's some carbon on the pistons
Put the bridge at an angle take your measuerment off the outside edge of the piston, you need to turn your crank back and fourth look at your gauge until you see the lowest number on it. I have not read all these posts but your deck must be perfectly clean the top of the piston where your taking the measurment from clean. your dealing with thousands make sure everything is clean. its very easy to not be at top dead center you need to wiggle the crank back and fourth till you see the lowest number.
Last edited by Little Mouse; Aug 27, 2009 at 09:22 PM.
and after you get the highest point on the piston, press your finger on the opposite side to take any "rock" out unless you're measuring directly over the pin.
I use 3M scotchlock discs to clean gaskets off the block, followed by a razor blade. Someone else pointed out chasing all the head bolts- don't forget that, and clean all the bolts on a wire wheel. Get all the old goo off them.
Put the bridge at an angle take your measuerment off the outside edge of the piston, you need to turn your crank back and fourth look at your gauge until you see the lowest number on it. I have not read all these posts but your deck must be perfectly clean the top of the piston where your taking the measurment from clean. your dealing with thousands make sure everything is clean. its very easy to not be at top dead center
you need to move the crank back and fourth till you see the lowest number.
That's funny, I just sent you a PM. Okay I'll clean the deck first. Yes, I used the dial to find TDC
Originally Posted by TimAT
and after you get the highest point on the piston, press your finger on the opposite side to take any "rock" out unless you're measuring directly over the pin.
I use 3M scotchlock discs to clean gaskets off the block, followed by a razor blade. Someone else pointed out chasing all the head bolts- don't forget that, and clean all the bolts on a wire wheel. Get all the old goo off them.
I'll try pressing to eliminate rock. Where is the best place to get thread chasers?
You shouldnt just rock the piston in one direction to measure.
You should rock it in one direction and measure. Then rock it the other direction and measure.
Half way between those measurements is your deck height.
Summit has them. be sure to secure the chaser in the holder very well, as most of the threaded holes go all the way through into the water passages, and i doubt you want a loose thread chaser rattling around in the block.