Ford taurus fan
Pro
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 592
Likes: 3
From: Austin Tx
I'll probably pull power from where ever I mount the controller I put together. It will either be the starter or the alternator. I've heard both areas to pull power the starter lug or the alternator lug. Either way it will have fuse or a circuit breaker in line.
Team Owner
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 65,492
Likes: 230
From: Orange Park Florida
is it really going to come to the where to get the main power from argument again,
the last time it came up more people said to get the power from the starter lug because it would mess up the alternator. now its just the exact opposite. totally opposite advice is what i have noticed to be the norm here sometimes
the last time it came up more people said to get the power from the starter lug because it would mess up the alternator. now its just the exact opposite. totally opposite advice is what i have noticed to be the norm here sometimes
first off, I feel they are not necessary, and I know of no factory using anything like it.....everything I know of all through the 90s even had just a switch on/off for cooling fans....
the controllers from him or Spal did not like alternator output fed to them they required battery sink power to smooth out the ripples....with the fans on running a/c my Tek scope says 700 mv or ripple on the line....out of some 13-14 volts available...more than I expected, but not so awful evil....but apparently enough to smoke SState controllers that are pulse switched....electronic theory, forgetaboutit if you don't understand, suffice to say they need a battery cable source...
trouble is, the charging of the battery is lessened when the fans are on/ or a/c is running and if short drives, the battery is not getting fully recharged from the many starts.....
so two points, it's hard on battery, because of lesser charge rate, and then it's really not necessary device to finish with....
Alternators don't supply power unless the load is applied up to their current limit....so if you have say a 100 amp alt...the fans surge to ~40 for about a second, then they draw say 25 steady amps.....then your a/c blower draws another say 20 amps, fused at 30, then the headlights, and driving/fog lights, then in my case the FI computer, then some guys like tunes, well all that is pushing any stock alt these cars came with, so I did a SI17 years ago, and knock on wood it's been fine....rated at 100 amps from factory.....
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 6,683
Likes: 1,364
I use the DC Control and I love it....
It works just fantastic for me. It only runs the fan as fast as necessary. When I use a/c it kicks on full speed. My temp doesn't vary more than 10°F or 15°F at any time. I got the "filter" that lets you hook it up from the engine compartment.
Since I'm paranoid I also installed a separate relay that will start the fan at full speed if my temps gets to ~197°F. But anyway, I really like that DC Controller.
Since I'm paranoid I also installed a separate relay that will start the fan at full speed if my temps gets to ~197°F. But anyway, I really like that DC Controller.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 5,948
Likes: 72
From: Oxford MA-----You just lost the game!!!!
Anybody who's interested in doing this swap, here is a pretty good article about it. It's the Fordmuscle website, but hey, if you are willing to put a Ford fan in your chevy, you shouldn't be prejudiced about going to a Ford website.
Scott
Scott
Racer
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 331
Likes: 1
From: Brooklin Ontario
Under hood temp issue fixed
If you have under hood temps, change your advance to manifold if you have a 69 or later. Can't hurt to try. Let me know if it works for you.
Also as we are fooling with ignition timing, its always good to do a complete set up on that while you are there. This should not affect your base timing but it never hurts to be sure.
Later, Rog.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 5,948
Likes: 72
From: Oxford MA-----You just lost the game!!!!
Scott
Race Director
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 11,608
Likes: 780
From: Eustis ( Area 51 Bat Cave ) Fl
Thanks '75...saves me working up the schematics,
I have a couple questions....
The wiring color codes for the Taurus fan...
The 180 and 205 temp switches...anyone got a part number or make year and model,
I hate mail order and I pop in my local stores which are Pep boys, Autozone and Advanced auto parts,...perhaps Napa
Derale sells a 180 switch but who local carries them?
The key board jockeys are in most cases not car people and need to know what you are putting the part on to look it up and can't look up generic parts,
I even had the fellow at Autozone reply to me for asking where the Edlebrock carbs are,
"What's a Carb?"....no, sadly he wasn't kidding
I have a couple questions....
The wiring color codes for the Taurus fan...
The 180 and 205 temp switches...anyone got a part number or make year and model,
I hate mail order and I pop in my local stores which are Pep boys, Autozone and Advanced auto parts,...perhaps Napa
Derale sells a 180 switch but who local carries them?
The key board jockeys are in most cases not car people and need to know what you are putting the part on to look it up and can't look up generic parts,
I even had the fellow at Autozone reply to me for asking where the Edlebrock carbs are,
"What's a Carb?"....no, sadly he wasn't kidding
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Le Mans Master
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 6,422
Likes: 591
From: McHenry Illinois
Here's a napa number
Coolant Fan Switch
Product Line: Echlin Ignition
Part Number: ECH FS300
Price: 27.49 Each
Attributes # Switch Terminals : 1
Coolant Fan Switch Temp Rating : Normally Open, Closes At 185 Deg F.
Coolant Fan Switch Thread Size : 3/8" - 18 MPT
Coolant Fan Switch
Product Line: Echlin Ignition
Part Number: ECH FS300
Price: 27.49 Each
Attributes # Switch Terminals : 1
Coolant Fan Switch Temp Rating : Normally Open, Closes At 185 Deg F.
Coolant Fan Switch Thread Size : 3/8" - 18 MPT
Race Director
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 11,608
Likes: 780
From: Eustis ( Area 51 Bat Cave ) Fl
Below is a copy of what I posted in my own radiator thread, I am reposted it here in the hopes of saving others a few toad pelts,
In addition I really like the wiring diagram '75 posted, I did a copy and had it plastic sealed for down the road but I took the liberty of adding relay codes to it...
In addition I really like the wiring diagram '75 posted, I did a copy and had it plastic sealed for down the road but I took the liberty of adding relay codes to it...
Mind blowing..
..my car was running hot with stock fan with clutch or flex fan which was worse than stock fan,
As you know I was ready to buy a new aluminum radiator and aftermarket Spal fans,...since it seems that's what the aftermarket has to offer,...but Spal fans are far from the best or best value.
As I always do I got deep In my research on the subject because I didn't want to waste toad pelts and I wanted a cool running car,
I guess most of the rhyme and reason got lost when this thread went more towards whose radiator to buy rather than addressing my cooling problems,
I spoke with a "nameless" vender NOT involved in this thread on the phone the other day and after describing my cooling issues he said "Well, that's good news for you and bad for me as you do not need a radiator"
So after having other of lifes demands in the way it took a few days to get it all set up.... I did my beta testing tonight on my Corvette 4 core radiator and Taurus 2 speed fan,
As I said it was beta so the fan is just clamped in place no sealing of any kind and not pretty like I like things to be but okay for testing.
My 180 degree switch for low side needed an adapter I do not have so I ran low with a toggle and high with the Hayden adjustable thermostat, ( cheap model )
It was somewhat cool out and took a spell of putting around the 'hood to get the car to warm up,
When the needle got between the 2 and 1 of 210 which is straight up on my 69 temp gauge I hit the low speed switch,
Very quickly the temp dropped to the first hash mark before 210 in other words very cool,
I drove around and got on her and it didn't budge, I let it sit at idle about 15-20 minutes and it moved less than a needle mark,
I assumed the high speed of the fan much have been on for it to be so cool now.
much to my dismay and pleasure the low speed was keeping me this cool which means high will do the job in hot traffic with AC ( to be added later on )
These Taurus fans are nothing short of incredible...no aftermarket fan will touch them...period, and I have personally tested many aftermarket fans.
I believe one moral to this story for me is before I give up on ( in this case the radiator ) and just throw money at something to make it work I really should make sure everything is working the best it can,
My hats off to the radiator company who was more concerned with doing me right than selling me a product which prodded me to try this and saved me a pile....
..my car was running hot with stock fan with clutch or flex fan which was worse than stock fan,As you know I was ready to buy a new aluminum radiator and aftermarket Spal fans,...since it seems that's what the aftermarket has to offer,...but Spal fans are far from the best or best value.
As I always do I got deep In my research on the subject because I didn't want to waste toad pelts and I wanted a cool running car,
I guess most of the rhyme and reason got lost when this thread went more towards whose radiator to buy rather than addressing my cooling problems,
I spoke with a "nameless" vender NOT involved in this thread on the phone the other day and after describing my cooling issues he said "Well, that's good news for you and bad for me as you do not need a radiator"
So after having other of lifes demands in the way it took a few days to get it all set up.... I did my beta testing tonight on my Corvette 4 core radiator and Taurus 2 speed fan,
As I said it was beta so the fan is just clamped in place no sealing of any kind and not pretty like I like things to be but okay for testing.
My 180 degree switch for low side needed an adapter I do not have so I ran low with a toggle and high with the Hayden adjustable thermostat, ( cheap model )
It was somewhat cool out and took a spell of putting around the 'hood to get the car to warm up,
When the needle got between the 2 and 1 of 210 which is straight up on my 69 temp gauge I hit the low speed switch,
Very quickly the temp dropped to the first hash mark before 210 in other words very cool,
I drove around and got on her and it didn't budge, I let it sit at idle about 15-20 minutes and it moved less than a needle mark,
I assumed the high speed of the fan much have been on for it to be so cool now.
much to my dismay and pleasure the low speed was keeping me this cool which means high will do the job in hot traffic with AC ( to be added later on )
These Taurus fans are nothing short of incredible...no aftermarket fan will touch them...period, and I have personally tested many aftermarket fans.
I believe one moral to this story for me is before I give up on ( in this case the radiator ) and just throw money at something to make it work I really should make sure everything is working the best it can,
My hats off to the radiator company who was more concerned with doing me right than selling me a product which prodded me to try this and saved me a pile....
Racer
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 415
Likes: 10
From: Richmond Va
I run a Taurus fan on my jeep w/ a SBC 350 and have it run thru a 70 amp relay for the initial start up. It pulls hard a start and then settles down to a more manageable draw. I have mine set up w/ two plugs, one for the high and the other for low. I keep on the low side and cools it fine. The high side pulls a ton of air and will cool the meanest big block w/ air to spare. I got my relay on Ebay. Is a Bosch 70 amp. Big sucker, but have had zero electrical or cooling issues. You can search on Pirate 4x4 too, they have all the info you want. Some guys run two relays and a toggle switch, so you can switch from low to high side in the cab. I just have the plug under the hood, so I have to manually change to get to the high side.
I do run a high output Powermaster alt. (140 amp I think)
I do run a high output Powermaster alt. (140 amp I think)
Last edited by MalibuVLX; May 11, 2010 at 10:20 AM. Reason: addtl info
