http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HYP-4030/
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/JET-60600/

 

Thanks 75,

As I put this system together I'm finding it to add up quick. I
started out wanting to change the radiator, then change to
electric fans now all the relays, switches and then now a new
100 amp alternator. Wow it gets expensive but I will probably
still do it.

Thanks,
Riggs.

 

is there a such thing as a switch like those that does both hi and low speeds on the fans

 

Word to the wise,, the best draw point for the power to the fans is the +ALT stud, not the batt. Power the relay coils from the ACC tab in the fuse box.

 

There is a 2 relay set up for low and hi speed trips. I got my taurus fan and dual relay set up with all connections and slpices needed to set up. I only connected one relay for the hi speed of the fan which moves 4000 cfm of air through the rad which has been keeping my 69 427 cool even on 85 F days in traffic, never above 200f. If I have to turn on any lights while the fan is running I will be discharhing the batt. 100 amp alt a must.
Also be sure to mount the fuse away from heat sources. My 30 amp fuse blew until I moved it. Good luck.

 

OK so if I can I should probably have the relays and fuses inside the car(what I did with my truck since I learned heat is bad for relays and what not) also is there a more powerful fan that will fit there, I only ask because where I live it regularly hits 100 F

 

Not sure, I do know that the taurus fan was a tight fit. Maybe you can find a dual fan and shroud set up. I think the 4000cfm should be enough in your environment as it is more than what the original set up provided.
Later, Rog.

 

Well if it is more than the original clutch fan provided then I am pretty sure I will be ok

 

I plan on using this type of setup when I reassemble my '70 from it's frame off, but I have a question that I don't think I've seen answered yet. It deals with the residual engine compartment heat.

The original fan sucked the air through the radiator to cool the liquid which kept the internals of the engine cool, and the electric fan should be able to do that quicker and more efficiently.

But... The original fan also blew air, albeit warm, across the top and sides of the engine to get some cooling for the carb, distributor, firewall, exhaust manifolds, etc. The electric fans I've seen simply flow massive amounts of air downward and under the car because of the angle the radiator sits.

Hopefully someone will have addressed this and devised a solution by the time my car is road worthy, otherwise I might have to add some sort of fin gadget to change the direction of the airflow.

 

Yes, I ran across this problem exactly. See thread " update on electric fans".
I was running dual fans fram a TA LT1, and thought the set-up was very efficient at cooling the water, ambient temps under the hood would go way above 230*. Long story short, the air was not flowing "inside" the engine compartment and when coming to a stop, say off the interstate, the heat from the exhaust was enough to fry alternators and pop relays and circuit breakers. But the temp guage would not climb above 180-190*.
I got on of these mark viii fans and installed it along with a cs130 alt (140amp), and have run it through some hot trips to shows and cruisins around town. The difference is amazing, much improved from old set-up. First off, the fan is so big (18") that it does privide airflow through engine bay, though probably not as much as a engine fan, but good. While the fan is on I can feel the air flowing out of the side vents in the fenders. With the old set-up there was none, only under the car.
I run only one temp switch now (on-200 off-185) and a a/c relay. The fan cycles with the temp as expected and will actually turn off sitting still, but it takes a few minutes. Keep in mind, this is Florida and the temps have been well into the mid 90* recently. Lastly, I have not had any episodes of alternator crash since the install, only the low output at idle which is expected with fan and other items on (running halogen lights).
So all said, it was a good choice.

 

Good to know, I do have alot of heat under hood and that has assisted in blowing the 30 Amp fuse I have for the fan. need to rethink my set up.

Thanks Rog.

 

Why not just run an electric fan inside the stock shroud, so that the air is ducted towards the engine as stock? I hope I don't run into the same problem, as I had been planning to use the dual fan setup from an LT1 F-body.

 

I thought of that as well. But, any time you divert the airflow you decrease the amount of air (cfm) that is being moved, even if done after the fan unless its done past a certain distance. There is not enough room to do this. The only other way is to put it "In The Hole" of the shroud, which could be done and would fit, barely. But this fan has alot of torque and may damage the shroud for the fan or the stock shroud. The lincoln fan seems to move enough air upwards to keep things happy at this point. Dont get me wrong, the dual fans worked great and looked good. It was the air temps under the hood from the headers that were the problem with mine, NOT the coolant temps. The left LT1 fan was down low and pointed the air under eng block and crossmember where it did nothing to help compartment air temps.

 

I was just thinking that while reading this thread. Thanks for the verification.

 

I utilized the same fan on another car that had a lot of heat under the hood. i mounted the relays on the shroud with rivets and it worked fine also made for an easy conversion back to a mechanical fan.

 

So I was reading through the threads and happen to have a tarus fan laying around in storage. What better place to put it...It is slightly trimmed all the way around from another application.

I haven't installed it yet. I am still waiting on my vintage air. I figure I can drop the entire unit in with the help of a friend. I'll work on wiring up the fan this week and hopefully have it ready to run soon.

 

i like this idea/post

 

I am pretty sure that is not the right Taurus fan. The 3.8 2 speed taurus fan from 87 to 93 has S Shaped blades and has a 3 terminal plug. It should look like this.

 

I am of the school that any fan power should come off the alt output stud directly, to avoid any long term battery charge problems due to reduced charge voltage from fan voltage drop through the fuse link....

I have my Dual Spals mounted flat on the rad backside, but I am tempted to change that and aim them more straight back, a fairly easy do, but I have other projects cooking....maybe next spring...

 

is it really going to come to the where to get the main power from argument again,
the last time it came up more people said to get the power from the starter lug because it would mess up the alternator. now its just the exact opposite. totally opposite advice is what i have noticed to be the norm here sometimes