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Positive Battery Cable Connector

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Old Sep 8, 2009 | 03:00 PM
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Default Positive Battery Cable Connector

Hi Everyone,
I started the 70 this weekend after a VERY long hiatus. (work kids..etc..)
The starter started grinding... again... While unbolting the starter, I noticed the starter bracket to the engine block was VERY loose...

Anyway... I turned quickly... slammed my head on the frame rail and let go of the starter while the positive cable was still connected to the starter.. (not the battery). The connector BROKE .

This is a factory new replace I installed sometime ago while completing body off. (still on 10miles on the car...) I know what it takes replace cable sooo..... Can I get a new end and crimp and/or solder new one? I broke right at the bend...

I love my Corvette but this car really likes to test my patience and love...

Anthony
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Old Sep 8, 2009 | 03:21 PM
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I'm pretty sure you can. I've replaced ends on battery cables (not that one however) You should be able to find one at an electrical or welding supply. They should have solder or crimp-on type. You will need to know the size of the cable.(4,3,2) I believe that one needs to be bent. You can do that in a vise. Unless you have access to the right crimper I would solder it. Clean the wire & the inside of the lug & use a small torch. It's just like sweating a copper pipe fitting.
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Old Sep 8, 2009 | 09:20 PM
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Originally Posted by 76yellow
I'm pretty sure you can. I've replaced ends on battery cables (not that one however) You should be able to find one at an electrical or welding supply. They should have solder or crimp-on type. You will need to know the size of the cable.(4,3,2) I believe that one needs to be bent. You can do that in a vise. Unless you have access to the right crimper I would solder it. Clean the wire & the inside of the lug & use a small torch. It's just like sweating a copper pipe fitting.
Hey 76,
I was going with your advice and started to look at the issue. I really did not have enough slack on the cable, so I unbolted the first hold down. Then I realized.... Hey this is kinda easy. The threads were spotless on all six bolts...and the Muncie allowed enough room. Now the cable is out. But, do I still solder or just replace now.... What vendor carries exact positive battery cable? I know a lot are different.
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Old Sep 8, 2009 | 09:55 PM
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Better to just make your own cables, will last a lifetime and possible solve some potential no start problems. Everything available at a welding supply. Crimp and then sweat solder.

The oem wire is copper clad aluminum and some replacements are no better. 1st and 2nd pic are oem and last 2 are copper welding cable

Originally Posted by noonie
The oem cables are aluminum clad in copper, not the greatest, but have lasted well. When replacing, I would use a copper wire like welding cable, very flexible.







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Old Sep 9, 2009 | 09:04 AM
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noonie is right. If it was that easy to get out, make your own !
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Old Sep 9, 2009 | 09:39 AM
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Thanks guys. The grommet for the cable is still brand new and I have it out of the car too. A few more questions.

How do I crimp the end like the picture posted? That wire gauge looks thick.

I think this might be a dumb question, but what do I use the sweat the connector(s)?

Lastly, what about the battery terminal side... do they make a connector that can be soldered as well?

I don't have much experience with this stuff... although you guys make it sound very easy. Just want to make sure I get the right stuff.
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Old Sep 9, 2009 | 10:50 AM
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OK.... The connector can only be properly crimped in a press with the appropriate tool. You can 'sweat' solder the wire end into the connector using a propane (bottle) torch, some flux, and some solder. Just cut off the necessary insulation at the end, brush flux over the open wire area [don't be stingey], place the connector in a vise with open end "up"...also put some pieces of wood on either side of the connector lug so that the heat doesn't dissipate through the vise..., put the wire into the connector, wrap a piece of water-soaked cloth around the wire insulation near the end of the wire (this will keep the heat from melting the insulation). Now just put the torch flame on the outer body of the connector while inserting the end of the rolled out solder into the top of the connector. When the solder starts to melt, just keep feeding more solder into the connector until it gets fairly full. Then pull the heat away and let it cool. It's best not to spray/pour water on the hot lug, as it could damage the joint and/or spray steam at you; but keep a glass of water and/or a fire extinguisher handy...just in case.
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Old Sep 9, 2009 | 10:54 AM
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Also, I believe that the battery cables are #2 AWG wire.
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Old Sep 9, 2009 | 11:39 AM
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Originally Posted by Mr.Gearhead
Thanks guys. The grommet for the cable is still brand new and I have it out of the car too. A few more questions.

How do I crimp the end like the picture posted? That wire gauge looks thick.

I think this might be a dumb question, but what do I use the sweat the connector(s)?

Lastly, what about the battery terminal side... do they make a connector that can be soldered as well?

I don't have much experience with this stuff... although you guys make it sound very easy. Just want to make sure I get the right stuff.
You must be on the software side of telecommunications. I'm an old Western Electric/AT&T guy...I use a Thomas & Betts manual power crimper for crimping lugs, splices, etc.
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Old Sep 9, 2009 | 11:54 AM
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You should crimp it before you solder.

Get the proper size lug for the wire, insert the fluxed cable end into the lug, lay it on a soft 2x4 or even rolled up carpeting and use a cold chisel and hammer longitudinally in the center to crimp it. It should turn out like the pic.

I put the same lugs on each end and use an adapter or marine battery if it is top post. These lugs will just bolt on a side post battery.
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Old Sep 9, 2009 | 12:37 PM
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Originally Posted by 71 Green 454
You must be on the software side of telecommunications. I'm an old Western Electric/AT&T guy...I use a Thomas & Betts manual power crimper for crimping lugs, splices, etc.

Is it that obvious... my group works via keyboard?


Originally Posted by noonie
You should crimp it before you solder.

Get the proper size lug for the wire, insert the fluxed cable end into the lug, lay it on a soft 2x4 or even rolled up carpeting and use a cold chisel and hammer longitudinally in the center to crimp it. It should turn out like the pic.

I put the same lugs on each end and use an adapter or marine battery if it is top post. These lugs will just bolt on a side post battery.
Noonie- So if I understand you correctly. Go buy 2g wire from welding place along with 90 degree bend for starter and regular end for battery terminal. Crimp the ends using chisel and hammer to secure tight. Then reinforce the connect point using solder and lots O flux... I might as well make a segment from the frame to starter too.

What is the gauge of factory cable? I am wondering if I need to buy bigger cable clamps as well...

oppss.. I see it was posted factory is 2...

Last edited by Mr.Gearhead; Sep 9, 2009 at 12:39 PM.
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Old Sep 11, 2009 | 09:41 PM
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Hi, I'm lucky enough to work for a Battery Cycler Manufacturer...We sell equipment to battery manufacturers....I always make new positive and negative cables for my vettes....#2 welding cable is great for it... Always works great.... Crimp with the right tool works great but the tools are expensive...the chisel and hammer method works as well.... i heatshrink around the terminal to give a clean look....
Good luck!
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Old Sep 12, 2009 | 02:29 AM
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I am a welder repair technician, a proper crimp with the correct lug will work just fine, but to keep the customer happy I always soldered the connections. #2 copper will work fine and pretty much last forever on your vette.
PG.
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