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Do you have all of the hoses connected as intended? The hoses from the P/S pump are different sizes, so there shouldn't be an issue with how they are connected to the control valve: pressure inlet line to the smaller fitting [nearest the adjustment end of the control valve]; larger return line from the fitting next to that one. With the cylinder assembly oriented so that the fittings are to the front of the car, the upper line is connected to the bottom port on the control valve; the lower line is connected to the top port on the control valve. The lines coming from the control valve are criss-crossed so this connection layout is simplified. {See drawing N40, A4 in your A.I.M.}
From the Corvette shop manual:
Disconnect the piston from the frame bracket. Start the engine. One of the 2 conditions will exist: If the piston remains retracted turn the adjusting nut clockwise until the rod begins to move out. Now turn the nut counter clockwise to exactly one half the rotation needed to change the direction of the rod movement.
If it extends, move the nut counter clockwise until it begins to move in. Now position the nut exactly one half the amount necessary to change direction. Do not turn the nut more than necessary to balance the valve. With the valve properly balanced, you should be able to move the piston in and out manually. The adjusting nut is under the dust cover on the end of the control valve. Hope this helps......
Everything is new Hoses, Pump, Cylinder, and Valve
That doesn't leave much else in the PS system. The shop manual lists other causes for stiff steering as binding of steering components (lack of lube sort of stuff) bad ball joints or tie rod ends etc. Any chance of that being root cause?
OK -- I got a new valve from VBP. They were good about it. I Installed it today and rechecked everything - balanced just fine and it still has the exact same problem. Very hard to steer left while wheels are on the ground. Could ther be a problem with the piston? It is the only other part. Pump is new and works fine because it is easy to steer right.
if roger says he has seen them go bad, that is good enough for me.
Check the shaft for rub marks. When you turn right the shaft comes out of the cylinder. When you turn left the shaft goes inside the cylinder and if it has a tiny bend in it it will bind as it goes in and back out. Another thing to consider if the bushings on the shaft where it is attached to the frame are too solid that can also cause a binding,there needs to be a little flex there. Ive seen some cars that have the nut turned down so tight with old bushings that the washers are against both sides of the bracket,usually this just bends the end of the shaft. Also make sure the bracket where it attaches to the frame is not loose.
The [internal] seal on the piston in the power-assist cylinder works in both directions: pressure on one side turns it to the right, pressure on the opposite side turns it to the left. If it works properly in one direction, the seal must be working OK. If the cylinder is new, there must be a blockage in the feed passage going to that side of the piston. My guess is that the cylinder is defective from not being assembled or machined correctly. A good test would be to install your old cylinder. By the way, since it was working OK, you should just buy an [outer] seal kit for a few bucks and repaint it. Then when you install to test it and it works, just leave it there. {The cylinder is permanently sealed and the inner piston cannot be rebuilt. Basically, if it works, it's good.} Once your car is working properly, just return the 'junk' cylinder to get your money back.