When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I once again got bored with my fairly new set up. Its quick but I am still not satisfied. I am looking into purchasing the weiand 144 pro street blower kit. I am currently running an edelbrock performer rpm heads, cam, and manifold with 750 demon carb, and 10-1 comp ratio flat top pistons with stock crank. I know I need to purchase new pistons with an 8.5-1 or 9-1 comp ratio if i go blower. My question is do I need to get forged pistons and crank? Or can a new steel crank and hypereutectic pistons handle the power and psi? Should I also get my heads ported or will my rpm stock heads be ok? Anyone out there have this blower? if so whats your set up or what do you recommend?
Last edited by MTC_75vette; Sep 27, 2009 at 01:41 AM.
If you have to swap pistons anyway, you might as well put good ones in there. Forced induction adds a lot more stress to an engine, and I'd go with a good crank and rods while you are at it. The forged rotating assembly will also allow you to up the boost down the road, once you get use to the power.
I once again got bored with my fairly new set up. Its quick but I am still not satisfied. I am looking into purchasing the weiand 144 pro street blower kit. I am currently running an edelbrock performer rpm heads, cam, and manifold with 750 demon carb, and 10-1 comp ratio flat top pistons with stock crank. I know I need to purchase new pistons with an 8.5-1 or 9-1 comp ratio if i go blower. My question is do I need to get forged pistons and crank? Or can a new steel crank and hypereutectic pistons handle the power and psi? Should I also get my heads ported or will my rpm stock heads be ok? Anyone out there have this blower? if so whats your set up or what do you recommend?
Well,i guess i can help you,ive always had a blower on my car and also my truck,you will never get tired of driving it.You will need forged pistons,a cam with 112 to 114 ls for the blower to work effectively.your heads will work,but port match everything.There will be some out there that tell you you need forged internals,only if you intend on going over 6500 rpms,the blower its self is not suppose to go over 6500 rpms on 142 and 144 models.So your engine will be alright.You will also need a blower carb,just let me know if you have anymore questions.
couple of old engine
Last edited by Billysvette; Sep 27, 2009 at 10:51 AM.
Well,i guess i can help you,ive always had a blower on my car and also my truck,you will never get tired of driving it.You will need forged pistons,a cam with 112 to 114 ls for the blower to work effectively.your heads will work,but port match everything.There will be some out there that tell you you need forged internals,only if you intend on going over 6500 rpms,the blower its self is not suppose to go over 6500 rpms on 142 and 144 models.So your engine will be alright.You will also need a blower carb,just let me know if you have anymore questions.
couple of old engine
Wow love your set up it looks great and I bet its a lot of fun to drive. Thanks for your reply...but I do have a few more question for you. You said I need a cam 112 or 114 ls I am not sure what you mean by that, is my current cam unusable? Also you said I need forged pistons...but what about connecting rods and crank?
Just out of curiosity, what kind of mpg do you get with a blower?
Sometimes you get better gas milage,but when you step on it,like any other performance engine,you get worst milage.You must increase fuel when supercharged,thats why you need a blower carb,it makes things easier.Its ALOT more complicated with fuel injection,computer engines.
mtc-75vette,ls is lobe seperation is how far the cam lobes are apart,it allows more fuel and air to get in to cylinders.the valves stay open longer.allows blower to work effectively.You dont need forged crank and rods with the setup you want.About your cam working ,check to see if your ls is 112 or 114.
Just check my cams lobe separation is 112 so i guess i am good with that. You said I do not need forged crank or connecting rods...but is my stock parts ok? Or should I upgrade?
Lobe seperation angle has nothing to do with the valves staying open longer. That would be the duration. The LSA has to do with the lobes being together or apart. On a cam with say 106 the two angles are closer togther keeping the intake and exhaust open together longer. With a blown motor the air is being pushed in and wit hthe exhaust valve still slightly open it pushes some of the charge right out the exhaust. With a wider LSA the valves are not open as much so less charge goes out. With a naturally aspirated motor this is not as critical due to the charge not being pressurized, it is being sucked in. I am having a similar problem running fuel injection with a 110 LSA. The charge tha tgoes out the exhaust pipe is a little diluted with raw gas tricking the O2 sensor telling it I am running rich. Therefore it leans out the mixture and causes rough running. I just had a cam ground on 112 centerline to help the situation out.
This is just a brief thing on LSA, there could be volumes writen on this. If you want more info go to Comp Cams website. The pictures they have may describe it a little better.
As for your stock parts holding up, how much boost do you intend to run. How much power do you want out of it. If you have a stock crank and rods and plan on stepping on the motor it may last a little while. HP is addicting and yo uwill find yourself stepping on it more and more. Upgrade now and you will not have to worry about it.
Lobe seperation angle has nothing to do with the valves staying open longer. That would be the duration. The LSA has to do with the lobes being together or apart. On a cam with say 106 the two angles are closer togther keeping the intake and exhaust open together longer. With a blown motor the air is being pushed in and wit hthe exhaust valve still slightly open it pushes some of the charge right out the exhaust. With a wider LSA the valves are not open as much so less charge goes out. With a naturally aspirated motor this is not as critical due to the charge not being pressurized, it is being sucked in. I am having a similar problem running fuel injection with a 110 LSA. The charge tha tgoes out the exhaust pipe is a little diluted with raw gas tricking the O2 sensor telling it I am running rich. Therefore it leans out the mixture and causes rough running. I just had a cam ground on 112 centerline to help the situation out.
This is just a brief thing on LSA, there could be volumes writen on this. If you want more info go to Comp Cams website. The pictures they have may describe it a little better.
As for your stock parts holding up, how much boost do you intend to run. How much power do you want out of it. If you have a stock crank and rods and plan on stepping on the motor it may last a little while. HP is addicting and yo uwill find yourself stepping on it more and more. Upgrade now and you will not have to worry about it.
Your right Gordonm,i was giving a brief description so he wont get confused.He doesnt need to know all the tech on it.he doesnt understand it right now.Just know 112 or better ls.then you can get into all the lifts and exhaust durations.For what he wants his cam will work I dont want to argue this point,stay under 6500 and you will be alright,the 142 or 144 puts out stock 5 psi,you can pulley change and get a little more 10 or so psi,they are different then centrifical blowers and larger roots types that put out more psi,alot more psi.My novi puts out almost 30 psi max psi,i will never use it though.More boost the more money you have to spend on an engine.I ran a cast crank on old setup for over 10 years,no problems,and i got on it ,i didnot race it at the track all the time,just used it as a cruise around rod.I dont think mtc-75vette is going to use this as a race vette,if so then i will agree with you.Once people hear that your going blower ,you need forged internals,not true,i ran for over 10 years with no problems and i am doing it now.I will go another 10 years or longer.high Rpm and high boost would kill it though.Another thing to elaberate on is that these blowers have a 6500 rpm range or you will over spin it.You dont need to run that high of rpms anyway on the street.
Last edited by Billysvette; Sep 27, 2009 at 01:26 PM.
I dont need it,i have more then enough hp,but like gordonm said hp is addicting this makes the car too hairy.Only use it at wot,top end.Some will tell you thats a no no,I have learned,what you hear isnt always true
On my truck i also run nos with the blower ,i run 10 to 12 psi,ran it for about 8 years now ,no problems.I must say i only use a 75, 100 dry shot on both.And i dont use it everytime i run the vehicles.
Last edited by Billysvette; Sep 27, 2009 at 01:43 PM.
My question is do I need to get forged pistons and crank? Or can a new steel crank and hypereutectic pistons handle the power and psi? Should I also get my heads ported or will my rpm stock heads be ok? Anyone out there have this blower? if so whats your set up or what do you recommend?
I can tell you this, I took a bone stock 2 bolt 350 out of a 76 caprice that had 70K on it, bolted it in my 83 El Camino, bolted a B&M 144 on top of it, and then proceeded to beat the tar out of it for 60K more miles without any issues at all until I sold the truck. These little blowers really are not very hard on motors, so dont get too carried away with burning up money on the bottom end.
Roy
Lobe seperation angle has nothing to do with the valves staying open longer. That would be the duration. The LSA has to do with the lobes being together or apart. On a cam with say 106 the two angles are closer togther keeping the intake and exhaust open together longer. With a blown motor the air is being pushed in and wit hthe exhaust valve still slightly open it pushes some of the charge right out the exhaust. With a wider LSA the valves are not open as much so less charge goes out. With a naturally aspirated motor this is not as critical due to the charge not being pressurized, it is being sucked in. I am having a similar problem running fuel injection with a 110 LSA. The charge tha tgoes out the exhaust pipe is a little diluted with raw gas tricking the O2 sensor telling it I am running rich. Therefore it leans out the mixture and causes rough running. I just had a cam ground on 112 centerline to help the situation out.
This is just a brief thing on LSA, there could be volumes writen on this. If you want more info go to Comp Cams website. The pictures they have may describe it a little better.
As for your stock parts holding up, how much boost do you intend to run. How much power do you want out of it. If you have a stock crank and rods and plan on stepping on the motor it may last a little while. HP is addicting and yo uwill find yourself stepping on it more and more. Upgrade now and you will not have to worry about it.
Thanks for all your input...because I am on a budget I will keep my stock crank and rods and keep the psi btw 5-7. I have to buy new pistons b/c my current pistons have to high of CR. Should I buy forged pistons with 9-1 CR or is that a waste of money if everything else is cast or Should I stick with ?
Just out of curiosity, what kind of mpg do you get with a blower?
Since you have extra torque, you can add a new transmission with overdrive to pump up your mileage. I get mid '20s with my 400 small block and my Tremec TKO. Of course, there's always the temptation to hot rod it around - then your mileage goes down severely...