I am looking to buy a 79. Cosmetically, the car has been repainted, new dash and seats replaced. It is an L48. I am not looking to restore, but drive it!

For the experts out there, can you give me any typical problems that this year of vet can have? thanks...

 

While I certainly wouldn't consider myself a "veteran" on C3's, persay, I have done my share of mechanical work over the past 3 years on my car.
You should find out more about the mechanical side of this car. Anything can go wrong, from the point where you turn the key, to when the exhaust comes out the rear....any everything in between.
My suggestion....find out more.
P.S. I could go into a long story about the pretty girl I dated in high school, beautiful everything....on the outside. Well, you get the picture.

 

with schmegeggie,

I'm not an expert but I have what you may get, so, while it's running turn on switches to see what works and doesn't. As far as typical problems for this year, I would say that any problems or situations that do come up you have to remember that these are 30 year and older cars. There will be times that she needs a little help an if you take care of her she'll do her best to care of you. These cars need attention and deserve it. ED

 

This helps:


It has a list of things to look out for and typical C3 problem areas.
Good luck.

 

Hi 79 RV,
No expert here but I believe you need to check on what's been done to the car mechanically. Remember it's 30 years old, and will likely need some tinkering with even if it's in very good condition. Suspension components can need attention, brakes may need work, the engine might start and run beter with a tune-up.
Have you taken a look at the rust situation in the 'birdcage' and on the frame?
Corvettes are great fun, but aren't always easy to own!!!
Regards,
Alan

 

Thanks for your comments.

I will certainly look for rust and inspect the undercarriage the best I can.

 

Red 79: One year ago, I did the same thing you're doing now - buying a '79, only mine is green, not red. (Always wanted a little red corvette, but that's another story......) Anyway, here's a list of things that I"ve done/had done in about 14 months: Replaced fuel lines (they were leaking when I bought it); replaced rear springs (about one inch off the ground when purchased); had speedometer gears replaced - it was registering ten mph slow, which can be a problem w/ the local law enforcement; replaced rear brakes (and am waiting for the front ones to go); replaced headlight switch and windshield wiper switch (they no longer make wiper switches, had to have one cannibalized); replaced wiper motor; replaced numerous vacuum lines; had A/C swapped over to R124; new fuel pump; reattached headlight retaining bar under front end; replaced tires; reglued carpet; replaced shock absorbers; and rubbed the heck out of the original paint w/ something called Finesse-it, and re-applied sealant, polish, and wax. Other items that need doing: steering and suspension components (rubber, mostly) are old and cracked; drivers seat needs new hardware; dashboard needs to be removed, cleaned, repainted; need new speakers (desperately!) and head unit; and various cosmetics. Agree w/ previous posts, check the birdcage, frame, etc., underneath for rust and cracks. Mine is "clean and straight" as my mechanic says, but then again I think I've put his kids thru college in the last year alone. Enjoy it!

 

Looks like the seller got cold feet....

I will keep looking.

 

I have experience with two C3's. Rust in the "kick ups" (frame behind seats and in front of the rear wheels) can be a serious issue. You can use a hammer to assess thickness. A sharp metallic sound with the hammer rebounding from the surface is good. A dull thud with the frame absorbing the hammer strike suggests pitting and layered rust. IMO rear wheel bearing play would not be a killer issue but expect to work on that at some point. I have replaced rear wheel bearings at 60K to 70K miles. I may have been a bit early on that. Assume that all original rubber parts are in need of replacement. When you jack the rear wheels off the ground, the side yoke is held in the differential with a small circular clip. On older cars this can break or slip off. I always jack the car with a wooden block between the trailing arm and the TA pocket to save wear and tear on that clip, it is a "big deal" to replace it. IMO the engine will run for lots of miles if it has been well maintained. Zinc and Phosphorous was taken out of the oil for environmental reasons. Modern roller cams don't need as much wear protection. Adding a ZDDP plus additive from Eastwood ($10/oil change) bridges the gap between modern environmental friendly oil and old cars. The wiring may be OK yet. The copper becomes harder with age and prone to breaking when moved. The insulation is even more prone to cracks; shorts are not uncommon with older wiring. I have found manufacturing defects that can be annoying. A sheet metal screw was left on the gas-tank support that over the years cut a hole in the gas tank. A trim screw was screwed through a wiring harness and after several years it caused a minor electrical failure. Good luck with your car. Some of the greatest years of my life have been spent working on a Corvette.