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Old Oct 1, 2009 | 01:09 PM
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What would be the best way to remove and reinstall a arm bushings if you don't have a press?
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Old Oct 1, 2009 | 01:33 PM
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Originally Posted by wogs73
What would be the best way to remove and reinstall a arm bushings if you don't have a press?
I've done it with an air chisel. It's a lotta work though. For my '76 Stingray I just called VanSteel and ordered new arms and springs. The arms and such are all black powder coated. Control arms came with new bushings and ball joints alredy installed.

I shipped back my cores in the same boxes the new ones came in and it only took a day's work or less to get it all done.
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Old Oct 1, 2009 | 02:25 PM
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I just did mine on my '71 without a press. I used an air chisel too. You can "walk" the chisel around the bushing flange and it will come out.

To reinstall them.....I bought an iron pipe cap that was slightly smaller than the busing flange and put it in with a BIG fing hammer.

BTW---I used rubber bushings...not the poly's.
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Old Oct 1, 2009 | 02:29 PM
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Originally Posted by SanDiegoPaul
I've done it with an air chisel. It's a lotta work though. For my '76 Stingray I just called VanSteel and ordered new arms and springs. The arms and such are all black powder coated. Control arms came with new bushings and ball joints alredy installed.

I shipped back my cores in the same boxes the new ones came in and it only took a day's work or less to get it all done.
I've already bought a VBP kit so I will be doing it myself. Thanks for the info on the air chisel as I have one
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Old Oct 1, 2009 | 02:29 PM
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Pretty sure I burned my out. I don't know if this is the proper way to do this or not. Eventually I opted to get tubeular ones anyway. Seems like I saw this on a video once.
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Old Oct 1, 2009 | 02:31 PM
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i burned mine out last winter. little messy but it worked well.
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Old Oct 1, 2009 | 02:34 PM
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Find a local machine shop to do it
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Old Oct 1, 2009 | 03:12 PM
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The arms can bend if you Bubba them. There are special tools to keep the arms from bending. If the shaft doesn't rotate freely by hand when you're done, you Bubba'd them.

The tools are inserted between the bushing eyes and keep the eye support from bending inward when pressure is applied. There are also two small half shells that are inserted in the lower eyes due to the split design.

I'm not saying it cannot be done well unless you find those special tools. I'm just saying you need to be aware that there are a few issues associated with not doing the job properly.

Pay yer money, take yer chances.
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Old Oct 1, 2009 | 04:12 PM
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Take the [loose] A-arms and new bushings to someone who has a press or a repair shop willing to do that part of the work. Call ahead to see if they would be willing to do it and find out what the cost would be. Don't tell them the A-arms are for a Corvette...or you will likely be charged double. (The A-arms are the same for other Chevy's...you can tell them they are from a 70's Chevy, which is true!) Why should you pay more just because it's a Corvette?
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Old Oct 1, 2009 | 04:40 PM
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Listen to 7t1 and 454 and san dieago you really need to support the eye lets you can easy distort both upper and lower if not carefull.
I did the van steel/dan route after no end of trouble cost more but savings in time and swearing well well worth it to me ...never regreted!
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Old Oct 1, 2009 | 04:51 PM
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Light them on fire with a propane torch. They'll melt their way out.

Replace with poly (no press needed).

done!
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Old Oct 1, 2009 | 04:54 PM
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Originally Posted by wogs73
What would be the best way to remove and reinstall a arm bushings if you don't have a press?
I don't have a press or an air hammer. The burning seemed a bit extreme. I followed the advice of another CF member who used a 1" hole saw without the pilot drill to remove the cross shaft from the a arm. There was a lot of friction that generated heat and some smoking rubber. It took about 10 minutes to separate the cross shafts from the A arms. The rubber remaining in the A arm either fell out or could be easily removed. Getting the metal bushings off the cross shafts was a bit more work as they are an interference fit. There was a "saw tooth" groove that could be expanded with a tap from a cold chisel. Reassembly was with screws and washers.
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Old Oct 1, 2009 | 05:44 PM
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Originally Posted by 7T3C3TTZ07
The burning seemed a bit extreme.
It sounds more extreme than it is. You don't cut them out with acetylene. You just heat them up until they start smoldering on their own. You could use a cigarette lighter if you want. Then let them drip, smoke, and smolder for awhile and *plop* they fall right out. I really doubt the temps get high enough to screw with the metallurgy. I've removed plenty of bushings this way without a problem.
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