Can this be done?
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 119
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Can this be done?
I currently have a brake overhaul project going on right now on my '72 350/200 Auto Coupe. The brake lines going to the rear brakes are of questionable integrity due to surface rust.
Couple of questions...
1. Can to brake lines to the rear brakes be replaced with the body on the car? By that I mean running them along the exact same path and using the same clamp locations as they are currently using?
2. Can you replace the brake line from the proportioning valve to the right front caliper without having to remove anything major to do it?
3. Has anyone ever had a brake line failure (e.g., spring a leak) due to corrosion on the brake lines?
Thanks in advance...
Roger
Couple of questions...
1. Can to brake lines to the rear brakes be replaced with the body on the car? By that I mean running them along the exact same path and using the same clamp locations as they are currently using?
2. Can you replace the brake line from the proportioning valve to the right front caliper without having to remove anything major to do it?
3. Has anyone ever had a brake line failure (e.g., spring a leak) due to corrosion on the brake lines?
Thanks in advance...
Roger
Instructor
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 212
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From: Central llinois
Yes, it can be done. I replaced all the brake lines on my 69 this summer without removing anything major. That being said I took a lot of time and used several choice words in the process. I ended up with lines in all the factory places. There was one line clip on the front to back line that is tucked up behind the line and next to the drivers side floorboard that I ended up just slicing at the bottom and bending the clip back around the new line. I can't see how you could possibly get this bolt out without the body off, but I have seen other posts in which people say they have. Good luck, Jeremy
oh, and to answer your other question, I blew rusty brake lines on 2 beaters I had in high school
oh, and to answer your other question, I blew rusty brake lines on 2 beaters I had in high school
Last edited by RedAirRdstr; Oct 12, 2009 at 11:36 PM.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 119
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Can this be done?
Hey Jeremy, thanks alot for the input.
I've got another another question after talking to my brother last night...
When you replaced the brake lines did you use pre-made lines from Eckler's or one of the other on-line stores...or did you use a roll of tubing and make your own?
Regards,
Roger
I've got another another question after talking to my brother last night...
When you replaced the brake lines did you use pre-made lines from Eckler's or one of the other on-line stores...or did you use a roll of tubing and make your own?
Regards,
Roger
Instructor
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 212
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From: Central llinois
I used a prebent stainless kit from The Right Stuff Detailing. I had great luck with them when I did my Nova, I was not as impressed the second time around with the Corvette. Even though the prebent kits still need quite a bit of "massaging" to get just right, I think they are worth the money, as they will save you a lot of time and headache. It will also be very hard to get a stock look by bending your own with the body on, you'll probably end up destroying a lot of your old lines getting them off, and there are a lot of bends
Jeremy
Jeremy
Thread Starter
Instructor
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Bruce,
Do you mean http://www.inlinetube.com/ ?
What year/configuration 'Vette did you use them on? How do you think theirs would compare with Paragon's, Eckler's etc. in how close to correct they are? I figured all the suppliers pretty much got the pre-bent tubing from the same place.
Thanks in advance?
Do you mean http://www.inlinetube.com/ ?
What year/configuration 'Vette did you use them on? How do you think theirs would compare with Paragon's, Eckler's etc. in how close to correct they are? I figured all the suppliers pretty much got the pre-bent tubing from the same place.
Thanks in advance?
Safety Car
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 4,883
Likes: 11
From: North Easton Mass
I put pre-bent stainless lines on the 72 and had a very difficult time lining up a lot of the fittings - and that was on a bare chassis. I don't remember who made the lines - I think I bought them from Corvette Central during one of their sales, but CC didn't make the lines.
Based on my experience I'd recommend using pre-bent plain steel lines for a body-on replacement. The plain steel will be easier to form and line up. Buy new brass blocks also. They aren't expensive and will let the new lines form a new seal and be less likely to leak.
Rick B.
Based on my experience I'd recommend using pre-bent plain steel lines for a body-on replacement. The plain steel will be easier to form and line up. Buy new brass blocks also. They aren't expensive and will let the new lines form a new seal and be less likely to leak.
Rick B.
Team Owner
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 37,637
Likes: 3,118
From: Crossville TN
In a real difficult area, you might need to un-bend something on the brake line, then re-bend it after you get past a stubborn obstacle. Use a tube bending tool...don't try to bend/straighten tubing by hand.
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Drifting
Joined: May 2005
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From: Somers CT
I used prebent lines for both front and rear. The front went in pretty easy, the rear is a little more difficult but only where it goes up near the rear wheel. It depends on how close to the frame your body is for the rear lines, the bolts are hard to access if it sits close to the frame. I had to unbend mine as 7T1 said, just at the point where it goes up at the rear wheel. If I remember I did that portion first and then bent it to the original shape and layed it on the frame. From the rear forward it was no big deal.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 2,683
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From: Working on the car NY
There was one line clip on the front to back line that is tucked up behind the line and next to the drivers side floorboard that I ended up just slicing at the bottom and bending the clip back around the new line. I can't see how you could possibly get this bolt out without the body off,
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Apr 2008
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Thanks everyone for the great advice.
Twinray, I'm gonna have to get back under there and take a look at that one clamp that ya'll are talking about under the floorboard.
Rick B., You talking about the small brass distribution blocks at the rear?
Twinray, I'm gonna have to get back under there and take a look at that one clamp that ya'll are talking about under the floorboard.
Rick B., You talking about the small brass distribution blocks at the rear?
Safety Car
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 4,883
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From: North Easton Mass
Rick B.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 1,224
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From: Clarksville Indiana
I have never used pre-bent stuff but it sounds like a sweet way to do it. My best advice though is to replace it ALL! I have seen many customers with failed rusty lines or failed Bubba repairs on rusty lines. Not a good thing at all. I would think that having correct pre-bent lines would reduce the PIA factor by at least half.. Good luck..