Body Mount Repacement Experts Chime In
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 558
Likes: 22
From: Vancouver, B.C., Canada
Body Mount Repacement Experts Chime In
I'm in the middle of replacing the body mounts on my ride. Everything is pretty much ready to go and the old bolts are out or loose. Old bolts came out reasonably well!! 
My concern is the lifting of the front end without cracking the fiberglas any more than it is (small cracks around the headlights). I'm having trouble visualizing the front end lifting while I'm jacking up the sides (one side at a time). There's a lot of weight out there!!! Should the hood be off?? Is this a lift I can do on my own or should I get help?? Any advise will be appreciated.
My concern is the lifting of the front end without cracking the fiberglas any more than it is (small cracks around the headlights). I'm having trouble visualizing the front end lifting while I'm jacking up the sides (one side at a time). There's a lot of weight out there!!! Should the hood be off?? Is this a lift I can do on my own or should I get help?? Any advise will be appreciated.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 3,323
Likes: 142
From: Green Valley Arizona
When I did mine, I used a 2x6 jig that went under the door area; used my floor jack. All I had to do was to raise is 1/8" to get the old rubber mount out and the new poly mounts in.
I think I screwed two 2x6's together with a gap between them that the lip of the body fit into. Mine were about 30" long. Someone here probably has this and can show it to you.
Good luck
I think I screwed two 2x6's together with a gap between them that the lip of the body fit into. Mine were about 30" long. Someone here probably has this and can show it to you.
Good luck
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 558
Likes: 22
From: Vancouver, B.C., Canada
When I did mine, I used a 2x6 jig that went under the door area; used my floor jack. All I had to do was to raise is 1/8" to get the old rubber mount out and the new poly mounts in.
I think I screwed two 2x6's together with a gap between them that the lip of the body fit into. Mine were about 30" long. Someone here probably has this and can show it to you.
Good luck
I think I screwed two 2x6's together with a gap between them that the lip of the body fit into. Mine were about 30" long. Someone here probably has this and can show it to you.
Good luck
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 31,283
Likes: 4,374
From: Westminster Maryland
Hi K72,
Quite a few parts (bumpers for example) are bolted THROUGH the body to the frame both front and rear. What all have you unbolted to let the body rise up? I can't really tell from your post. This IS something you can safely do, as Lanny said ,as long as everything's loose.
Regards,
Alan
Quite a few parts (bumpers for example) are bolted THROUGH the body to the frame both front and rear. What all have you unbolted to let the body rise up? I can't really tell from your post. This IS something you can safely do, as Lanny said ,as long as everything's loose.
Regards,
Alan
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 558
Likes: 22
From: Vancouver, B.C., Canada
Hi K72,
Quite a few parts (bumpers for example) are bolted THROUGH the body to the frame both front and rear. What all have you unbolted to let the body rise up? I can't really tell from your post. This IS something you can safely do, as Lanny said ,as long as everything's loose.
Regards,
Alan
Quite a few parts (bumpers for example) are bolted THROUGH the body to the frame both front and rear. What all have you unbolted to let the body rise up? I can't really tell from your post. This IS something you can safely do, as Lanny said ,as long as everything's loose.
Regards,
Alan
Race Director
Joined: Sep 1999
Posts: 11,361
Likes: 383
From: Plano TX
Yes, you need to lift the front along with the rest. When I did my '71 I used 3 jacks. Two on the sides, one lifting the rad core support in the middle. Go slow, constantly look to make sure it doesn't snag on anything. One thing I forgot on mine was the mufflers. They jam on the inside of the quarter panels, so remove them. Some other commonly forgotten items:
Seatbelt reinforcement strap in the drive shaft tunnel.
Parking brake cable.
Seatbelt reinforcement strap in the drive shaft tunnel.
Parking brake cable.
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 558
Likes: 22
From: Vancouver, B.C., Canada
Thanks Zwede. Whole exhaust system is already out (except headers). Parking brake cable is unhooked. Didn't think about the seatbelt retainer strap. I will look to unhook it.
Safety Car
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 3,720
Likes: 557
From: Seattle Washington
The late C's are a little diffrent in the front end so I'm not sure there but I didn't unbolt much up front. Keep in mind that You can do one side at a time you don't need to lift it all at once. 4" of Lift would be great but You don't need to go that far. Keep in mind that the only way to replace the gas Line from the tank is to do this Job all over. Yes do it all over again.
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Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 558
Likes: 22
From: Vancouver, B.C., Canada
Safety Car
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 3,685
Likes: 202
From: Waterford Mi
My site has a list of the things I had to disconnect. I did have to lift the body completely off though. My rocker channels were in real bad shape.
Body-off project
Body-off project
Le Mans Master
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 5,941
Likes: 281
From: Was New Orleans but swam to Baton Rouge LA
Cruise-In IX Veteran
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 558
Likes: 22
From: Vancouver, B.C., Canada
I'm using the Energy Suspension kit (No. 3.4126) for my 72. Kit comes with everything except the bolts. For the bolts I have grade 8 which I picked up locally. Bushings can be had in red or black color. You can get the kit at most parts suppliers. Your right, kit is suppost to be for 73 cars and newer but you can use it for earlier Sharks.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 5,941
Likes: 281
From: Was New Orleans but swam to Baton Rouge LA
Cruise-In IX Veteran
I'm using the Energy Suspension kit (No. 3.4126) for my 72. Kit comes with everything except the bolts. For the bolts I have grade 8 which I picked up locally. Bushings can be had in red or black color. You can get the kit at most parts suppliers. Your right, kit is suppost to be for 73 cars and newer but you can use it for earlier Sharks.
Nice to know thanks!
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 7,098
Likes: 378
From: Las Vegas - Just stop perpetuating myths please.
Try this link.
I used the method in this link: http://www.europeancorvette.com/html...eplacement.htm
It helped me big time and i was able to just remove the bolts from the front side brackets to frame without removing the front bumber. Just one side at a time and left the other side loose.
Also need to remove the radiator core support bolts in the fender well also. Just look it over a few times and yes i did try to support the radiator but it seemed to do ok by itself.
Hope this helps,
cardo0
It helped me big time and i was able to just remove the bolts from the front side brackets to frame without removing the front bumber. Just one side at a time and left the other side loose.
Also need to remove the radiator core support bolts in the fender well also. Just look it over a few times and yes i did try to support the radiator but it seemed to do ok by itself.Hope this helps,
cardo0
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 558
Likes: 22
From: Vancouver, B.C., Canada
I used the method in this link: http://www.europeancorvette.com/html...eplacement.htm
It helped me big time and i was able to just remove the bolts from the front side brackets to frame without removing the front bumber. Just one side at a time and left the other side loose. Also need to remove the radiator core support bolts in the fender well also. Just look it over a few times and yes i did try to support the radiator but it seemed to do ok by itself.
Hope this helps,
cardo0
It helped me big time and i was able to just remove the bolts from the front side brackets to frame without removing the front bumber. Just one side at a time and left the other side loose.
Also need to remove the radiator core support bolts in the fender well also. Just look it over a few times and yes i did try to support the radiator but it seemed to do ok by itself.Hope this helps,
cardo0
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 558
Likes: 22
From: Vancouver, B.C., Canada
Yahoooo. 
Body mounts are in and torqued down. Doors close as before and the door gaps are no worse or better than they were before. Body sits about 1/4" higher than it did (aluminum spacers to poly). I can live with that!! Now I can start putting it back together. While not hard, this was a time consuming little project.
Body mounts are in and torqued down. Doors close as before and the door gaps are no worse or better than they were before. Body sits about 1/4" higher than it did (aluminum spacers to poly). I can live with that!! Now I can start putting it back together. While not hard, this was a time consuming little project.
