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What are my options if I can not get the two bolts out to remove a rear caliper on my vette?
I have pb blastered them to death, breaker barred it, heated it some etc.
The two bolts holding on it arent budging are start to round off now.
Can a brake shop burn out the bolts some how with a cutting torch or other tool?
What are my options if I can not get the two bolts out to remove a rear caliper on my vette?
I have pb blastered them to death, breaker barred it, heated it some etc.
The two bolts holding on it arent budging are start to round off now.
Can a brake shop burn out the bolts some how with a cutting torch or other tool?
thanks for any help
jim
Get a 6 sided socket and breaker. They'll come off.
those spray bombs are useless, all your doing is wasting your time. The real answer is the flame wrench or heat and a lot of of it. A brake/muffler shop is one answer. They dont need to burn them out and screwing the caliper bracket and bolt and can save your parts..Your problem may be enhanced by the fact you dont have enough heat where you are...and the brakes are partially apart...try a canned propane torch which you may have or the nearest hardware will have...
Get a 15mm deep 6 point impact socket, beat it on the bolt and use an air impact wrench to rattle the bolts backwards and forwards to break the bolts loose. That's how I got 2 of them loose in the 68.
Chase the threads with a tap afterwards and you should be good to go.
I forgot to mention, damage to the caliper is not a problem. Im trying to replace it.
I tried a breaker bar, with a multi sided socket (more than 6 sides).
What happens if the head breaks off?
screwed than ?
A six sided socket provides maximum leverage/grip on the bolt. Anything more will round off the head and you'll really be in a jam. Breaker bar because if you simply put a extension/pipe on a ratchet you risk damaging your ratchet as they are not designed for that much torque. Heat is good but too much and your risk weakening the plate that the caliper is bolted to. You'll not be happy if your ruin the retaining plate. If you do snap of the heads you can yank the caliper and easily tap out what's left. Wear gloves and watch out for your knuckles.
I've also had success with a sixpoint socket and a sledge against the breaker bar as the "impact" is more persuasive and a high pressure pull on the handle.
Impact wrench might work but it's difficult to get in that tight area.
Last edited by Hammerhead Fred; Oct 21, 2009 at 09:22 PM.
These guys are all correct. I just went through this. I used a six side socket and a breaker bar. They all came out except for two, that broke off. I removed the caliper and soaked the broken bolts and heated them, and they twisted right out. I did not have to drill them out. I would chase all the threaded holes with a tap before installing the new bolts.
Use the sturdy 6 point socket and breaker bar, and put a 4 foot pipe on the breaker bar...worked for me on my '68 rears. You can get a lot more torque that way than with an impact wrench.
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There are no nuts!
As stated just use a 1/2 half inch 6 point socket and and a breaker bar and turn counter clockwise to loosen. If need be, with the car high enough in the air, put a pipe on the end of the breaker bar. Are you attacking the correct bolts?
PG.
I asssume if you do use heat, you heat the nut red and not the bolt?>
There is no "nut". There are only two bolts holding the caliper on.
Did you mean to say "heat the bolt head"?
The previous poster makes a good point....are you sure attacking the correct bolts?
4-foot long black-iron gas pipe [extension] fit over your breaker bar handle. Give it a good tug and they'll come loose. Using a torch in the area of brake lines/fluid and rubber is not necessarily a good thing....
if you cant get an impact on them, then you're going to have to warm them up mechanically, by using a small steel drift or blunt end punch, on the center of the head to loosen up the rust welded threads. then use the 6 point socket and breaker bar.
I think heating will not help : You can only heat the bolt head and these bolts are too long for the heat to reach the threads. I would first try an impact wrench with a 6 points impact socket, like some people said.
High frequency vibrations can help them break loose, just like a hammer would do. If they still don't move after that, I would try with a long enough breaker bar. The worst that could happen would be to cut the head of the bolt, but even then the caliper will go off and you will be able to heat and remove what remains of the bolt.
Last edited by 73StreetRace; Oct 22, 2009 at 09:11 AM.
Yes, I did mean to say bolt and not nut. My kid was yelling at me cause he wanted to watch kermit the frog "rainbow connection' on YouTube.
I did find a nice 6 sided socket and used a breaker bolt and finally got the bolts off and than the caliber.
On a side note, I think what threw me off and always has with heating to remove a stuck bolt, is how it works?
In this example, if I had heat the bolt head how does that help remove the bolt? I thought that heating the bolt would make it expand which wouldn't that make it tighter?
It must work cause everyone says it does. But in this case I'm not sure how it does.
When you heat the bolt it expands, then when it cools the rust is usually broken loose, don't try to remove the bolt till it's cool. If you can heat the part it's threaded into, it will expand the hole and then back the bolt out while it's hot.